They will, but since they are longer, they have a better chance of being too close to the exhaust downpipe and melt. If you package them correctly, they should be fine.
They will, but since they are longer, they have a better chance of being too close to the exhaust downpipe and melt. If you package them correctly, they should be fine.
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
Awesome. thanks for the help. Go Penn state.
Nope, don't use the non L body intermediate shaft, its longer than the stock L body. It could work but install and measure and try to center the engine/trans before driving it. L body is the shortest, followed by the rest of the cars, followed by the vans. This is also true for axles.
Nope, all cars the same, vans the longest.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
On an L body, you can use the K based I shaft with two drivers side, 88-90, L body automatic axles.
There are also different length shifter cables. P and AA bodies are the same, but they are definitely shorter than G and J body cables. I'm sure vans are different, but there are different ones for the K based cars too.
Sorry, but they are shorter. That is what is in my GLHS. That is the only reason I remember they are...lol. I suffer from CRS, like many on here.
Are the shafts different lengths and if they are, is it not enough to cause issues? I ask because I have no clue myself(and yes I have been told this on many occasions).
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
So the center shaft cannot be used with two drivers side omni axles?
Good info on the cables as I have scrapped many a car and checked length, only found vans longer.
I guess the car can handle an extra inch, I did say it could fit, just wasn't 100% sure,
Yes, the L body's are the shortest, followed by the rest of the cars, then vans. I thought van and G etc body cars had the same int shaft length as I was using a car one and Dave measured them, vans inch longer. I have compared L body to G body and L body is for sure shorter.
The stock L body can't be used as its small spline unless you make a hybrid unit, using a G etc body inner spline shaft, mate it to the L body int shaft and use the small spline L body cv shaft and use a 87 and auto L body axle for the drivers side.
The G etc body int shaft might work as the difference is an inch, and if you mock it up and see, I am sure there is enough leeway that is should be fine.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
The splines on the two cars i have are the same. I actually had the daytona axle setup in(with the stock automatic trans) it was just two long. Unless were talking about how long the splines are.
For the large spline 568, I would guess the 88-90 Omni auto transmission axles will work? I just read above about doing a hybrid shaft and it made me wonder if they will work for the 568 or if something special had to be done? I really need to look into getting my 568 finished. I love my 525, but I think I'm the last person on the earth that still is running one in an L body
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
On all 5 speed L body's and 86 and older cars/vans, the inner splines, that go into the trans are a reduced diameter and sheer off with higher hp, so Dodge made them bigger in 87 and newer cars. In 87, L body's got the A413 upgraded like all the other products but the 525 was the only trans the L body ever got so they never bothered retooling it.
Correct, 87 and up L body auto axles are what you need.
This explains it all-
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/trans_guide.html#Axle
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/trans_...tml#Installing
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
If anybody needs their 87-90 L-body auto axles rebuilt for a trans swap, I have a guy that can rebuild to OEM quality (not the turdbox axles the parts stores sell). A guy on here has been testing a pass side one for me in his Charger, so far it's holding up to a 3-bar setup on street tires. I have axle run a driver axle he built in my GLHS at 14psi on street tires w/ no problem. PM me for details.
L-bodies had a rod and lever setup, when you put a 520/555/etc into one, you make custom brackets (not rods) that bolt to the trans for the levers to mount on. The rods hook to the levers. There is a long rod that runs from the shifter to the first lever, then there is a rod that runs from that lever to the gear selector lever on the trans, and another that runs to another lever that slides the selector shaft in and out. Sounds complicated, but it is pretty simple, seeing it make it much clearer.
Some people modify the rods and levers to use Heim joints or upgraded ball-and-socket joints, for more reliability and a solider feel.
ok. I didn't realise that the L bodies use a rod setup. Mine is auto now and my experience is very limited with these cars. Thanks.
Thanks Simon. I know others have told me previously, but this is good to know where it is documented. I guess all I need is a couple of axles and a rod setup for the 568 and I'm good to go. BTW, I do understand the 568 is a cable shifted transmission, but I'm going to look into converting it to a rod shifted one. I believe!
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Irrelevant to last topic but havent figured out totaly how to post new threads. Simple knowledge question. Im about to have my 2.2 t2 rebuilt. It was removed from an 88 shelby z intercooled. Im looking at most an upgradded computer injectors and new turbo. Does this engine have forged crank and pistons stock? If i need to replace would i need to put in forged to be reliable? Will not be drag racing. Just playing on the street.
Click on the "new thread" button in the sub forum.
Cast pistons, could be cast or forged crank...unless you are shooting big, you will be fine with a cast crank for pretty much ever and you *may* want to put forged pistons in. With a good tune you can break 300 whp with a stock bottom end.
T2 should be forged crank and rods.
Awesome. thanks. I don't See myself pushing for more then 300whp. I honestly couldn't imagine much beating this little car with 300whp. Not much legal for the street anyway.
I still run a 525. I had a intermediate shaft bearing go bad on one, and the new one sticks in 5th gear, forcing some manhandling to get it out.
I think they're fine for L bodies under 250hp, as long as you've done some Preventative Maintenance to the linkage connections and don't dead hole them consistently.