Axle binding???? Please read and help!

[shelbymopar89]

OK, I have an issue with the car, I am running an A555 with a Quaife and Drive Shaft Shop level II axles. The issue is at speed when turning hard right I get what feels like in the wheel a worn out CV joint. It kinda kicks the wheel. It is very noticible. It is just fine in a left turn. I can plunge the pass axle about 1/2 inch or so, and the drivers side maybe 1/4 inch. Now I had the 1/4 inch like Cliff's site recommends cut off the end of the pass axle (DSS did it) I tried moving the engine to the pass side some because thats the side that felt like it was binding, and it did help. I then ran out of room to move it to the pass side. So the engine is all the way to one side and it still does it a little. I know something is binding up because when you turn and back up it will pop and crack. Everything is brand new, bushings, axles, struts,...I mean everything so I am not worried about old parts causing it. It did not do this at all till I lowered it more. Do you think it is bottoming out the axles? I wonder if the DSS did not actually cut 1/4 inch off. Open to ANY and ALL sugestions! Thanks

[1966 dart wagon]

I had a perhaps similar issue. when i would turn left i would get a 'clunk, clunk, clunk' noise, sounded like an axle, replaced that, still the same issue, replaced my wheel bearing, still had the issue, centered the motor, STILL THERE, i ended up jacking up the motor and pulled the pass. motor mount off to replace the mount and adjust it, since i put the 'stud' in it(not sure on the technically name) but if you look at it you will know what i mean, anyways i lossened everything up installed it back on the car got the motor level and tightened everything and i havnt had the issue since, perhaps the pass. motor mount was either high or low? who knows but it fixed it

[turbovanman²]

Are you sure you have the right length axles?

[minigts]

That's what I was thinking. It will ride fine and fit, but once you turn the axle will stretch and you will get noise. Not sure what length is needed for your application, but I would ask around and confirm the correct lengths and which vehicle to get them from if you haven't already.

[shelbymopar89]

All good input, thanks! All the motor mounts are new from Johnny, all new wheel bearings, like I said everything is new. Not sure on the axle length, I went with a one peice on the pass side and stock on the drivers side. I am trusting they did cut 1/4 inch off??? I guess I could pull it and measure it. You guys think they are too short??? Would that not pull it out of the diff when you turned?? Think oil would leak out if that were the case? Here are the axles I am running. I forgot to add that I had it aligned last night. I took the metal spacers out of the pass side mount when I put it together, it looked to crooked. I thought that may be the problem so I put them back in with no joy.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/pdetail.php?pid=44

[cordes]

If the car is only doing it with it lowered, I would think it is a geometry issue.

[turbovanman²]

Not sure on the axle lenght, I went with a one peice on the pass side and stock on the drivers side. I am trusting they did cut 1/4 inch off??? I guess I could pull it and measure it. You guys think they are too short??? Would that not pull it out of the diff when you turned??]

Not the actual piece that goes into the trans but the axle length itself, IE the shaft. They could have been made longer by accident???

[shelbymopar89]

If the car is only doing it with it lowered, I would think it is a geometry issue.

I am right there with you, but this is the ride height that I like, just hope I can make it work.

Not the actual piece that goes into the trans but the axle length itself, IE the shaft. They could have been made longer by accident???

I see what you mean, anybody have a one peice they can measure for me?

[cordes]

There unfortunately isn't the adjustment available for the ride height that many would want with our suspensions. I know that there is a group buy going on right now for some camber caster plates that are going to be made. Perhaps those might help you out.

Actually, since it is an 89' it still has the stub strut right? You might want to check out a cast control arm K frame setup. It is easy to get 11" brakes when you are doing that too.

[shelbymopar89]

There unfortunately isn't the adjustment available for the ride height that many would want with our suspensions. I know that there is a group buy going on right now for some camber caster plates that are going to be made. Perhaps those might help you out.

Actually, since it is an 89' it still has the stub strut right? You might want to check out a cast control arm K frame setup. It is easy to get 11" brakes when you are doing that too.

I am running coil overs so I can go down about 2 more inches and up about 4 inches. I just like the looks of it where it is now and hope I can get it to work. Not sure what a stub strut is, this is my set up

[cordes]

I used the wrong term I think and I can now see from the pic that you have dual pivot control arms. I really don't know what to tell you.

[minigts]

Well I would say you want the shafts to be level or a little angled up to compensate for the travel of the strut. I had my car about 1" too low and had issues with the binding. I rode like that for about 20 minutes and took the car back home and raised it. I have coil overs on my Charger.

[shelbymopar89]

I am going to go out in a bit and raise iit a little to see if that helps. I'll keep you guys posted. If any new ideas throw them out please.

[Directconnection]

what is the angle of the axles at this lower ride height at?

[BIGBRUDDA]

Cordes may be on the right track. The problem has manifested itself since the "lowering".At high speed, right turn.
And it feels like "a bad C/V joint". I'm thinkin, it maybe "sidewall,strut or bushing deflection". Look at the other side for any signs of contact on sidewall/frame rail/ inner fender, trans cover. (rolling the opposite corner under)
That would make for noise &twitchy steering wheel.
If it is deflecting , tire press, tire construction, size, all need to be examined. Also check for deflection on the susp bushings. Or strut tower flex.

[2.216VTurbo]

Pull the long axle out and check the very end of it for cirucular marks that show it is butting into the Quaife. If you see the marks, shorten the axle a bit. How much? I have no idea

Holy cow your Daytona is shinier on the bottom than anything I have is on the top

[shelbymopar89]

Ok I raised it 1/2 inch and it is way better! I have to really lean on it in a right hand turn at speeds to feel it. Right now the control arms are pretty much level to the ground, they were angled up before. I decided to raise the boost some too while I was at it......Steve, it is still holding up great!

[Directconnection]

Ok I raised it 1/2 inch and it is way better! I have to really lean on it in a right hand turn at speeds to feel it. Right now the control arms are pretty much level to the ground, they were angled up before. I decided to raise the boost some too while I was at it......Steve, it is still holding up great!

Awesome on the engine part! What boost are you at right now? How does it feel powerwise for the boost you are running it at?

[shelbymopar89]

I am running 18lbs right now and A/F is 9.9-10.2 so it is plenty rich. I am getting some dyno time soon and will tweak it then. 18lbs now feels stronger than the old 23lbs I was running, honestly it is kinda hard to be sure because of how long it was down, but from what I remember it seems a little stronger. Should liven up some more when I take a little fuel away. I will keep you posted. I still have those bump stops.......Only 40 more years till the 50 trim

[88C/S]

I have been having the same situation with my 88 since I put on Eibach springs with Konis. I installed an 89 crossmember with the poly bushings as well as poly bushings for my engine mounts. I may try spacers to raise 1/2 inch too. I have noticed my axles are slightly angled-up too. You may have solved my problem also.