Wasn't a good mourning. Help! :(

[89ShelbyGuy]

Well, my blue shelby has been running real nice with the exception of the wastegate arm disconnected from the swingvalve..(gotta fix that), anyways about 2 weeks ago i was having a problem with the car overheating, basicly the temp gauge steadly made its way to hot, the fan IS kicking on, but jsut not cooling it. It happened 2 times, which one time i had to pull over and after i pulled over it shot down to normal operating temp, i thought it was the thermostat. so i replace it and havn't had a problem for 2 weeks till now. I was driving to work and as i was driving the belts started to sqeel really bad, i got stoped at a light and it even got worse, i then noticed the temp gauge climbing more the usaul, i had to get gas so i pulled into a bp with the belts still squeeling, i popped the hood after i shut the car off and the belts tension is good, nothing was out of the ordinary, so i filled her up with some gas and started it, no squeel and the water pump pulley was turning. So i continued on my way and then the temp gauge started climbing to H, so i had to pull over. I took a bar and started tapping on the thermostat housing to maybe see if it stuck, well that didn't work. so i had to drive it back home, the fan kept it from reaching total H but it was running hot, after driving for a minute or so the temp gauge then shot down from the H to almost the C...ok..it was like the thermostat opened, i then proceded to drive home and the temp gauge started to climb again to H...and then a couple of seconds later it shot back down to the normal spot where it should be and was fine the rest of the way home with no squeels.????

Now, i drove the car very..very low key trying now to blow anything...

Oh. BTW its a 2.2 t2

The only thing i can think of is the belt is slipping on the water pump pulley cause the pump not to spin..OR the water pump is locking up here and there causing no flow..causing it to overheat. I am not blowing any smoke out the back at all...i wouldnt think i blew the head gasket, its a brand new mp 006.

Anyone have any ideas on this...or even went threw this?

Thanks.

[88_pacifica]

Wasn't a good mourning. Help!

Mournings are never good...

[Subliminal]

You sure the cooling system is properly burped? I've had like issues from air in the system.

[89ShelbyGuy]

I've been driving it for a while now....so i would think i would have a constant problem if there was air in the lines????

And something else that leads me away from that is the belt squeeling that just so happened to happen for the first time i've owned the car and then it overheats...??

[WickedShelby88]

I've seen the blades on the w/p go before and it sounds like the pump is about to die anyways. Hows your coolant level since its cooled off?

[black86glhs]

Pull the belt and check how the pump feels when you turn it. If it isn't smooth or the shaft wobbles, you know what needs changed. It could also be a bad temp sender. Did you drill the hole in the t-stat?

[minigts]

+1 on checking the water pump. Might be a good idea to replace it. And when filling the cooling system, always be sure to run the heat in the car, allowing the heater core to have coolant flow through it and get all the air out, assuming there is any in the system. Also check your mixture level. From what I have gathered from a few on the board, 30/70 mixture coolant to water. I am going to do the same and also use some stuff called Wetters, which is supposed to reduce coolant temps by 30 DEGREES (they claim). Interested to see if it works.

[Tony Hanna]

+1 on checking the water pump. Might be a good idea to replace it. And when filling the cooling system, always be sure to run the heat in the car, allowing the heater core to have coolant flow through it and get all the air out, assuming there is any in the system. Also check your mixture level. From what I have gathered from a few on the board, 30/70 mixture coolant to water. I am going to do the same and also use some stuff called Wetters, which is supposed to reduce coolant temps by 30 DEGREES (they claim). Interested to see if it works.

That water wetter stuff is just a surfactant. A surfactant breaks down the surface tension of the coolant allowing for (in theory) better contact and heat transfer between the metal and the coolant. You can do the exact same thing with a couple drops of dish soap (also a surfactant) in the radiator.

[89ShelbyGuy]

allright guys, i am gonna replace the water pump, there cheap and easy enough to replace. Going to replace the belt as well.

I've seen the blades on the w/p go before and it sounds like the pump is about to die anyways. Hows your coolant level since its cooled off?

I didn't check, this was at 5 oclock this mourning...had to get my other car as i was already late...

+

1 on checking the water pump. Might be a good idea to replace it. And when filling the cooling system, always be sure to run the heat in the car, allowing the heater core to have coolant flow through it and get all the air out, assuming there is any in the system. Also check your mixture level. From what I have gathered from a few on the board, 30/70 mixture coolant to water. I am going to do the same and also use some stuff called Wetters, which is supposed to reduce coolant temps by 30 DEGREES (they claim). Interested to see if it works.
Today 10:27 AM

You say 30/70? Your in TN which i think would be fine for you, but in chicago the winter does get alot colder...50/50 ftw???? I would think the water would freeze.

Pull the belt and check how the pump feels when you turn it. If it isn't smooth or the shaft wobbles, you know what needs changed. It could also be a bad temp sender. Did you drill the hole in the t-stat?

I keep reading for the hole in the t-stat...no i didn't put a hole in...is this for when the engine is running hot and the coolant goes threw, it doesn't shock the aluminum? and by putting a hole is will allow it to alway have some coolant cooling it off?


Thanks guys! I'll let you know the outcome!

[Tony Hanna]

I keep reading for the hole in the t-stat...no i didn't put a hole in...is this for when the engine is running hot and the coolant goes threw, it doesn't shock the aluminum? and by putting a hole is will allow it to alway have some coolant cooling it off?


Thanks guys! I'll let you know the outcome!

It helps with not shocking the aluminum and also with getting the air out of the system. What happens without the hole is that an air pocket can form behind the 'stat which insulates it from the actual coolant temp. This can cause coolant temps to get screaming hot before the 'stat opens. The hole allows any trapped air to make it's way into the radiator where it can bleed out through the recovery tank. With the air gone, the 'stat is immersed in coolant and will open at the correct temperature.

[black86glhs]

It's only a 1/16" hole, so it is more like an air bleed than a bypass.

[89ShelbyGuy]

Where do i drill the hole on the thermostat?

[minigts]

Found this link in another thread.

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/headgasket.html

You can drill (per the article) a 1/8" or smaller hole. But I would guess 1/8" or 1/16", either or and it's at the top of the t-stat.

[1966 dart wagon]

http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_tricks.html

gary claims an 1/8 in hole is too big, i drilled a 1/16th hole and used a 180 thermostate, works great. I used Royal Purple's Purple Ice, works great, and it did make a difference about an 1/8 on the stock guage, not sure on actual temps but that was more then good enough for me.

Good luck on fixing your problem

[89ShelbyGuy]

Hey guys, well i replaced the water pump and belt yesterday night and also drilled the hole into the thermostat...i also thought 1/8 was a little big so i think i drilled a 7/64 hole. I hopefully got all the air out of the system as i let it sit with a funnel on the cap. I really dont know if i ever got the stat to open, the fan would always kick on and cool it off..but maybe drilling that hole even things off or something..i have no clue. i drove the car about 30 minutes on the road..no problems...alright! I just got to work a little bit ago, which is a 30 minute drive also, no problems....alright!!!!!!! My heat doesn't blow as warm now...but o well...its cooling much better, it never even reached the middle mark. alright, alright, alright! BUT

My red shelby gave me problem yesterday too, with leaking fuel, luckly it was just a hose clamp that just wasnt clamping. i fixed it at work..and drove it home at then end of the day. after i got back with new water pump i noticed my a/f gauge was not getting out of the lean area whereever i had throttle...WTF! Could my O2 be bad? How do i test an o2 sensor? I am not throwing any codes, and the connections seem to be ok and the car seems to run normal. Anyone have any clues?

Anyways, thanks for the help guys!

[IROCNOROLL]

If your A/F is sitting normal at idle, quick check is to artificially drive the system rich and see if the response is immediate and high enough. I prefer propane as it is dry and contains nothing that will cause issues. With the car at hot idle, put a good shot of propane into the air intake just shy of stalling the engine. This should drive the A/F totally rich. Then shut the propane off. This will momentarily drive it lean and A/F should hit the basement, before fuel control takes it back to normal control.

If the O2 seems to be responding to both rich/lean tests, you may have a source of false air in the exhaust mani (exhaust leak like the DP doughnut, lean mis-fire, ign mis-fire, etc) causing your lean readings, or maybe fuel delivery is questionable.

[IROCNOROLL]

Also if the system stays lean or rich long enough, the computer will set a code indicating the issue.

[WickedShelby88]

Sometimes if your fuel pump is getting weak it will do the same thing as well. The fuel pump in my 86 tona was getting clapped out and I kept noticing the car seemed less responsive than it used to. Ignored it as much as I could then one day it left me completely stuck somewhere.. Yay for AAA. At least with those you don't have to take the tank out just lower it down enough to get to it.

[89ShelbyGuy]

Well, i found the prob with the red shelby as it was pissing out fuel from the inlet hose to the rail, i decided just to replace the damn hose...seemed to solve the problem..its going into storage now...Thanks for the help guys