Serects to hooking up TU 3in downpipe to TU 3in swingvalve to .63AR housing

[inmyshadow]

While on your back? This has pretty much ruined the rest of my day.

I tried reversing the way the downpipe bolts go. That worked just fine with 63 a/r and 2.5in swing valve.

With the 3in swingvalve, there doesn't seem to be enough space to line up the nut with the bolt hole. Even if I got the bolt/nut started, I don't see the downpipe bolt getting tight since it is already making contacted with the exhaust housing when I tested the bolt through all the holes.

[turbovanman²]

Maybe the holes need drilling out? production error?

[badandy]

While on your back? This has pretty much ruined the rest of my day.

I tried reversing the way the downpipe bolts go. That worked just fine with 63 a/r and 2.5in swing valve.

With the 3in swingvalve, there doesn't seem to be enough space to line up the nut with the bolt hole. Even if I got the bolt/nut started, I don't see the downpipe bolt getting tight since it is already making contacted with the exhaust housing when I tested the bolt through all the holes.

Do yourself a HUGE favor...

Take the swingvalve and have the exhaust doughnut holes (LOL) threaded and tapped with nutserts that are the proper thread for your bolts...when completed you won't have that problem anymore and downpipe removal and assembly can be done one handed

[inmyshadow]

You two need to bite your tongues.

The head is already mounted and torqued down. I only have all the undercar work left to get the car running. It isn't coming off again unless I'm parting the car out or it blows up.


I already have a problem with TU's turbo oil filter not fitting because it blocks my coil plug. I can't start my car until I find a way to make both work together or ditch the brand new 70 dollar filter.

With all the troubles I've had with every TU product I've used. The swingvalve better not be one of them. I'd be at my wits ends if this was the case.

The major problem I see with threading those holes? I live in NewEngland and drive the car in the winter. I'd be screwed if I even had a downpipe bolt break.

Once I started bolting the downpipe on, I started thinking. I should have put nutted stud through the hole, then install the swing valve. Hindsight is 20/20.


Anybody else have favorable ideas? I going to check home depot for a shorter nut. Or I might get one side bolted down tight and drive it to my friend's lift for some help. I'd rather overcome this problem myself.

Maybe the holes need drilling out? production error?

[contraption22]

DO you have enough room to take the swingvalve off the turbo without removing the head?

If you do, you can do as badandy suggested. I threaded some stainless all thread into the swingvalve holes after drilling and tapping them. For safetey's sake I also put stainless nuts on the all thread. I had to grind one down to fit tho.

[tryingbe]

Did you call the vendor for their support first?

[GLHNSLHT2]

I put Heli-coils in my 3" Swingvalve. But I know what you're talking about, The bolts tighten up before the pipe get's tight. I pulled the exhaust out, pushed the flange down the pipe then welded a couple of beads on the d'pipe about 1/2" down for the flange to push against. Then put the pipe back in and it's all good. The hole in the 3" SV for the donut is machined to deep it seems or the donut isn't tall enough.

[inmyshadow]

I called TU about this issue. He stated that there were several posts about this problem. One of the threads was only a few weeks ago. This is a problem he neglected to warn me about. Again, hindsight is....

His solution was to grind down the exhaust housing and swingvalve flange with a dremel. That isn't something I can do with the swingvalve bolted to the car.

When I was out looking for solutions, I did run into those studs. There were a few different types in the help section of Advance auto. Might be a workable solution if I take the swingvalve off.

I'm not sure if I have the room to remove the swingvalve. At least not without removing the power steering pump and bracket. I'm working on my back, this would be very difficult. Then there is the wastegate clip to deal with.

When I was out, I found a few possible solutions. One store had what is called a u bolt. It is basically a fender nut or speed nut. It will slide over the swingvalve easily enough. I hope it aligns with the bolt hole. The height of the nut was shorter then a regular nut. This will also turn this into a one handed operation. I'll have to test out these nuts on my 2.5in swingvalve.

My other idea is to find a piece of steel that I can drill, tap and shape to fit. More or less a slimmer version of what we use already.

later

DO you have enough room to take the swingvalve off the turbo without removing the head?

If you do, you can do as badandy suggested. I threaded some stainless all thread into the swingvalve holes after drilling and tapping them. For safetey's sake I also put stainless nuts on the all thread. I had to grind one down to fit tho.

[inmyshadow]

I found this thread for some ideas.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ght=swingvalve

[Mike_Shepard]

James I to had this problem but was lucky enough to have the head off the car to solve it. We basically ground down the tab to fit between the exhaust housing and S/V. It took alot and I really hope it holds. I wish I had taken pics of it

[Mopar318]

Couldnt you insterst a stud into the threaded stop nuts that come with that bolt kit. Then once you thread that in part way, you can slip on the donut flange, and put thread on a nut onto the stud.

[Aries_Turbo]

i had a hell of a time getting the nut on top of the swingvalve flange the first time. the second time i took it off and tack welded a nut to the top of the SV flange and used lots of antisieze.

I remember Ken saying that Reeves made a narrow tapped piece of stainless that you could easily hold on top of the flange while you worked the spring bolt in.

as for the depth and the tightness... I shimmed the springs tighter with some washers.

Brian

[GLHNSLHT2]

easy enough to get a 8x1.25 heli-coil kit and thread the SV for a heli-coil. The metal is quite soft and requires just a little oil. Then you can either stud it or screw the factory bolts right in. After doing this I found that the donut was either too small or the machined hole was too big. So like I said above a couple stich welds across the downpipe was all it took to have the flange push the donut into the hole far enough for the bolts to tighten everything up.

[Austrian Dodge]

i had this problem with the stock DP to SV bolts! so i grinded down the one nut which is on the inside and it lined up. worked for me.
next time i got TU's DP to SV bolt kit and never had that problem again!

beeing you i'd try to get the SV off and thread it / heli-coil it! if you already have the DP/SV bolt kit

[crazymadbastard]

It takes a while James, I support the Dp with a jack I put antiseize into the nuts. The last time I put a air ratchet on the bolt pushed up and let it rip while barely holding onto the nut with finger tips. Then tighted the nut by wedging a screwdriver on there. let me know when you are ready for a dyno day.
Winston

PS about the stupid e-clip, get a couple of these (you will probably drop a few) from advanced auto clips right on:

[cordes]

If you do have to take the SV off, here is a pic which shows how much I grind off on the turbine side of the SV. I know that the outer portion is circled here, but it was the only pic I could find at the time. Also I do this with my 2.5" SVs which are going on a .63 housing it works really well.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I always just use a regular nut on the inside, rather than the special tabbed nut. Much easier, works just as good.

[slasky]

I used the nuts with the tabs and ground the tab and nut down a lot. It was still a PITA to get started but it did fit and work.

[badandy]

As much as I hate to say this....

TU sells a special downpipe bolt kit exactly for this very reason. I bought it but Reeves had a better idea and we nutserted it instead. if you had to this could be done with the swingvalve still on the car *I think* but admittedly it wouldn't be easy.

In your situation I would just order the TU downpipe bolt kit and be done with it.

[inmyshadow]

Well I won't be ordering any more parts. I won out in getting the downpipe hooked up. What helped me this time was a level head.

I tried grinding down several nut/tabs, but they still didn't fit. I would have had to grind well into the sides of the nut. Plus the tabs were taking the place of the turbo support bracket.

I looked that images of the TU downpipe bolts. I really don't think those tabs are narrow enough. Plus I really don't feel like waiting another week for parts. I was suppose to have the car running two weeks ago.

I finally got a nut started on there by hand. Then I tightened down until the open end wrench kept slipping. Its one 100 percent tight, but it is doable until I get on a lift. This was tough since my shoulder is in bad shape.

On the side note, I found a decent work around with the TU turbo oil filter. I have to remove my coil/bracket before I can connect/disconnect the coil. Not a big deal, just an unnecessary extra step in life now.

All that is left is a trip to the junkyard. I forgot to get another throttle cable, but at least I didn't forget the spare 2.5TI and A568. Then I can hook up my wastegate vacuum lines, upper intercooler hose, air intake and do a timing belt.