Code 13 and no check engine light

[Daemon Faust]

The car is a 1988 Lebaron Conv. 2.2L Turbo I



I looked the code up and it says it's MAP related, but it should kick the check engine light on. Well, it's not on, but the code is there.

I checked continuity from the PCM to the MAP and I got approx. 5v across it -key on, eng off, and 3.5v-4v -engine idling. And there is 10-12 vacuum going to the MAP through the Baro. Solenoid.

Are these good numbers?

Maybe I tested it wrong? My vacuum pump is broken at the moment, so I couldn't test the MAP per the manual I found.

The idle drops to barely running with the MAP disconnected, so I figure it's gotta be working, atleast partially.

Engine seems to idle well, but acceleration seems to be lacking, and it doesn't seem to be building boost, at all. Takes forever to get from 3500rpm to 4500-5000rpm. There's no boost gauge in the car, so I'm not sure where I stand there, either. But even at WOT, I can never feel the turbo kick in, or even hear it spool, for that matter.

Also, the odometer is not working, and the electric top and rear windows aren't working, though the front windows and rear defogger are - and all are located on the same switch panel in the console.... Any help on these problems would also be greatly appreciated.

[turbovanman²]

Does the light come on, KOEO? If not, you need to go to the computer wiring and power up the circuit, if still no light, fix the bulb or wiring, if it comes on, most likely a ECM issue.

[Daemon Faust]

i can pull codes... the light flashes 12, 13, 55. When I rtfm it said that code should trip the light to come on and stay on, but it does not, so... i don't know. lol

[Daemon Faust]

anyone got a schematic for cleaning up the vacuum lines on this thing? Just what is absolutely needed to make it go and have good power? I don't have to worry about emissions testing. I'd just like to be able to get out of the way and not worry if the guy 1/4 mile up the road is gonna hit me in the --- when i try to pull out in front of him, lol.

[turbovanman²]

www.thedodgegarage.com

Sounds like a computer issue or try a known good map sensor.

[MopàrBCN]

nono, stop! that issue can be various things!

First: The Code 13 is persistent in memory BUT the check engine ONLY lights up in the moment the problem actually occurs and the engine switches into limp in mode!!

So that means, you have had a situation where there was an unchanged map reading over a certain amount of time sufficient to throw the code and going into Limp in for that moment of time.

Now, I give you three hints that proven got me into this situation myself:

1. There is a small vac line between MAP and Barosolenoid. That itself may be broke but more importantly the port sizes between Map and Barosolenoid differ. In my case (3 Bar Map) they differ a lot. My line was sitting lose so that when I boosted a lot, I actually got the Check Engine briefly (thinking it was knock)

2. Another way I managed getting exactly this was going down a steep hill using first gear as engine break! I am not sure as to why it did this exactly. Either Engine Vacuum was below a given threashhold for this time or so steady that it did not change the required time to throw the code or it was one of the first signes of my worn break booster check valve

3. The last occasion on which I had trouble with occasional Code 13 was when my break booster check valve was gone.

In all three occasions I only very briefly got the check engine light (actually only in the 3rd case I actually noticed the Limp In mode occasionally). But I always got the code in memory

Definetly a Code 13 without the check engine permanently on is a sign of a leak, that in certain situations happens but not always.

HOWEVER, before pulling all apart, disconnect your battery a couple of minutes and see if it comes back. Test a couple of situations, where you produce constantly vacuum (such as going downhill and using the engine break).

Test your break booster as well!

[Daemon Faust]

the brakes do seem a little squishy with the engine running... the pedal is stiff when i get in the car, but goes almost to the floor as soon as i start it up. is this a sign of what it could be?

[turbovanman²]

the brakes do seem a little squishy with the engine running... the pedal is stiff when i get in the car, but goes almost to the floor as soon as i start it up. is this a sign of what it could be?

That could be the sign of a bad master cylinder too.


When it sits, engine off, you should be able to pump up the brakes a few times before getting a hard pedal. If not, either the check valve or booster is bad. If you can do that, then theres nothing wrong.

[IROCNOROLL]

anyone got a schematic for cleaning up the vacuum lines on this thing? Just what is absolutely needed to make it go and have good power? I don't have to worry about emissions testing. I'd just like to be able to get out of the way and not worry if the guy 1/4 mile up the road is gonna hit me in the --- when i try to pull out in front of him, lol.

Code 13 deals with the MAP pneumatic (or vacuum) side of the sensor. Code 14 deals with the electrical side. Any loss of vacuum signal to the MAP at any time will set a 13. A cracked vac line / "t" fitting, loose vac connection, etc will set this code. Typical causes.

Take a volt meter and test the two outer pins on the MAP. should see 5.1v approx KOEO. Then check the middle wire to ground KOEO. If the read is 2.4v approx, then the ecu system is in-puttting a limp voltage to that circuit. The engine should start and idle, but will not allow you to open the throttle without causing a stumble / stall condition. Find the vacuum leak.