Heim joint shifter question

[jamesmonty]

I am going to keep my 525 in my omni so i need to convert the shift linkage since the stock setup is broke. I have been looking at the heim joint conversion pare at least a 100 times over the last two months and read all the post I could find. My question is will a rod end with a stud attached work (like these http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/9025...with-Stud.html ) or should i get the standard rod end with washers and a bolt? These look like they will work, plus they are on sale! Would save a few bucks over buying all the bolts and washers.

[86Shelby]

I don't see why they wouldn't work. I suprised they put those on sale! Usually they bend ya over for heim joints.

[minigts]

I'm going to sound like a broken record...again, but consider working on the car and having to remove any of the shifter components when they are bolted down. This way you can have the reliability and strength with the ease of a quick release connector.

If you are interested, let me know.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=17264

[jamesmonty]

I'm going to sound like a broken record...again, but consider working on the car and having to remove any of the shifter components when they are bolted down. This way you can have the reliability and strength with the ease of a quick release connector.

If you are interested, let me know.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=17264

You showed me your setup last year after turbopaloza at Kens house. My question for you would be do they sell a clip like yours that clips on the stock ball? I am also trying to do this on a shoe string budget to get the car just moving under it's own power!

[jamesmonty]

minigts- what about mcmaster carr pn#6058K34

http://www.mcmaster.com

[minigts]

You showed me your setup last year after turbopaloza at Kens house. My question for you would be do they sell a clip like yours that clips on the stock ball? I am also trying to do this on a shoe string budget to get the car just moving under it's own power!

I don't think they do. I was interested in that, but they only make them in sizes based on the diameter of the thread rod that will fit. It's possible, but I went with 3/8" on everything, so it was too big.

minigts- what about mcmaster carr pn#6058K34

http://www.mcmaster.com

Well the only difference with what I went with is mine are stainless steel, these are zinc plated. I would go with the SS, which cost more, but not per unit when you get 4, which is how many you need. They are a hair cheaper than jamesmonty's site and about the same at McMaster, but SS not zinc plated.

[87glhs]

I did the conversion to the SS quick release joints from Midwest Controls (as above) a few months ago. I cut threads on the stock shifter rods, and then used Loctite/jam nuts to secure everything and it's been great.

Two notes I'll pass on though--the actual Heim joint you need (for the bottom of the bracket on the engine-side of the shifter tube) needs to have a fairly liberal left-right axis or you won't get enough side-to-side movement you need to hit all the gearsets. This was not a problem with the heim joint I got from Midwest, but it was with a generic one I picked up here locally. I was not able to find cone washers for the install--

The other note is in regards to vibration. Slight vibration is now heard/felt in the shifter during heavy acceleration in 1-2, which is ok, but I'm getting some serious buzzing in 3-4. I'm contemplating clamping some heater hose on the shift tube at this point, but don't think this will be a workable fix. The old Mopar rubber heim joints (there were two) provided a sort of a firewall for this vibration, and I don't know where to go to duplicate this since everything is metal to metal.


Don't get me wrong, this conversion is the best solution I've seen anyplace for old and broken Mopar shift rods, and probably the safest (definitely not going to fly apart on you!!), just a few things to consider.

[minigts]

That's interesting about the noise. I can't say I have noticed any on my car, but probably because I have so much interior noise with non A/C. Just out of curiosity, did you do the Midwest Control conversion from the thread I posted? If so, I wouldn't mind adding any comments/steps you completed to the existing post. Simon mentioned about making it a sticky and if you have some more detail, it may be good to post for anyone else interested.

Even if you didn't it would still be good info if you have anything different.

[87glhs]

Yes, purchased everything from them except the SS rods. Ordered on-line and had them in 3-5 days. Could not find the cone washers though. Definitely recommend "blue" loctite and jam nuts to secure.

[87glhs]

Follow-up to above--

Installed a length of 3/4" heater hose on the shift tube using (3) hose clamps. I split the hose and installed with the split-side down.

Installed a short piece of 5/8" fuel hose (also split) one of the OEM shifter rods; no clamps.

Last, I pulled the console/boot up and regreased the nylon ball in the floor shifter with some stiff red-lithium chassis grease.

Happy to say that this seemed to do it. Noise level is back to normal.

[minigts]

What cone washers are you referring to? I read through my post and didn't remember seeing anything about a cone washer. Can you provide the details of this?

[86Shelby]

http://sth2.com/Z-car/cone-washer.jpg

The cone shape allows the joint to pivot further since it spaces it away from the fastener and the piece it's bolted to.

[87glhs]

You're correct. The reference was from the "L-body linkage Repair" article posted on-site at the Knowledge Center. Had I not used the heim joints from Midwest I would have needed cone washers.

You should post your info in there--

[minigts]

Ok, I got it. I didn't read that particular thread that had those pieces, so I was wondering what it was! Thanks for notes guys.