Putting in new rings..how, and what else should be done?

[kleiner]

I am puffing blue smoke still. Enough to foul #3 plug. I just had the head and the turbo redone, so gotta be the rings huh? When I take it all apart is there anything else I should do while I'm there?

Also is there any tricks to it.
I know how to take the head off. After this. I drop the pan...
and that's about as much as I know

Parts
-either sealed power or hastings rings from what I read.
-Pan gasket
-Headgasket
-Just put Mopar Performance Headbolts on. Will they be ok for a round 2?
anything else?

Cheers

[Ondonti]

you cant spend the rest of your life pulling the plugs, hitting them with a torch, etc, so they dont stay fouled :P

But reringing is definitly a good idea when you are at that point. Im too lazy and dont want to pay for the parts/labor

[Tony Hanna]

In car re-ring procedure:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...e&articleid=57

In addition to rings, you might check your valve guides and seals while the head is off. Also, it would be a really good opportunity to throw a set of rod and main bearings and wrist pin bushings in it. The procedure for replacing the bearings with the engine still in the car is in the knowledge center under "engines" (along with the ring change procedure that I posted the link to).
There's really not much that you can't do (obviously short of machine work) with the engine still in the car.

[turbovanman²]

Are the plugs fouling-IE is the whole plug fouled or just the side, like someone blasted one side?

Check the piston tops, if there clean at 12 and 6 oclock, its the rings. If the piston is all black, then its guides or seals.



Hone it, new rod bearings, Hastings or any name brand rings are fine, remove carbon off the pistons, check rod bushing, new head gasket, reuse bolts.

[kleiner]

thanks for the info.
-Plug #3 is completly fouled.

I called and asked the machine shop they said it got new valve seals and guides.
So I am assuming it's the rings. But just to be sure how do I check valve guides and seals with the head off?

The link is great. Now I see what you say about forged pistons, I am not sure if I have them or not I will find out when they come out(Suppose to be). If they are do I need different rings?

I am very much a backyard mechanic. I did not want to take the whole engine out, as I have no hoist, so taking it to a machine shop to check the clearances might not be an option. So I need to get a mic and snap guage. I measure the piston diameter, and the cylinders, and the difference is what i am looking for. What numbers should this be?

Cheers

[kleiner]

From what I remember the cylinders still had visible crosshatch in them. I do think that the #3 was less visible then the others (this is the one that burns oil)

If a crosshatch is still visible should a hone still be done?
Also how do I check the rod bushings if there is slop in it?

[turbovanman²]

From what I remember the cylinders still had visible crosshatch in them. I do think that the #3 was less visible then the others (this is the one that burns oil)

If a crosshatch is still visible should a hone still be done?
Also how do I check the rod bushings if there is slop in it?

Still hone, I've done it both ways and prefer to hone, just extra insurance.

Look at the piston tops thru the plug hole, tell me what you see.

Pin bushing, wear is obvious. Any noises when running, IE sounds like a diesel?

[kleiner]

nope doesn't sound like a diesel.
Ok so I have never honned before. What tools do I need. I have been reading and people say the finger one sucks.

When I look through after it has been running for a bit. I take the plug out and smoke comes out. Can't see in. So when I was running on 3 cylinders, I think because the plug was so fouled, I switch plugs and drove it to my parents house. (where I can work on it.) It has been sitting for a couple of days. Now when I look in it looks like there is a little pool of oil in the back 12 o'clock and the top of the piston looks black opposite word of smooth????(rough) and shiny.

Wish I could take a pic.

Thanks for the help

[moparzrule]

Use a flex hone, a 3.5''. This one is 120 grit, but I would try and fit a 180 grit-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engin...mZ180191003898

Use it with a drill on a slow speed. Lube the cylinder and the hone with engine oil. Use common sense to know how fast to go up and down the bore for the speed you spin it. Try to get a nice cross hatch, go up and down the bore maybe a dozen times. Clean the bore thoroughly after you do all 4 bores.
Also when you put the pistons back in, not sure if you know this, but get yourself 2 short pieces of 3/8'' hose to put over the rod bolts so you don't knick the crank on re-assembly.

Where are you located? I have a 180 grit hone if you are close to central PA.

[kleiner]

OK sounds good, a flex hone

uh oh?
Started to take a few things apart and I found a pool of oil in the bottom of the intercooler. Now let me explain the whole story.

So I was burning oil for awhile driving around, trying to figure out if it was rings or valves or the PCV thing. I had even compression accross them all.
I stomped on the gas on the freeway and the car began to run crappy. I thought the plug was fouled. Next day I find a pool of oil in the bottom of the intercooler.
So took the car over to my old man's carport. Took the compression again and got a about 10psi in #3. So I knew I had to take it apart.

I took the head off and found a whole in the exhaust valve. Thought this was the problem, but to be sure took my turbo in to get checked out. They said it was on the way out. So got the head done, and turbo rebuilt. The pistons looked ok, there was some crosshatch there. So I put them back in the car. The car still burns oil.
I parked it a few days agao to take it apart again and do the rings. As I was taking the intercooler pipe off I noticed oil in the bottom of the intercooler again.
Now Before i did the head and turbo I cleaned it out once, but then drove the car to my parents before I took the head and turbo out again. So this could be from that.
To be sure, today I put back everything and cleaned out the oil in the bottom of the IC. took it for a spin.

She still burned oil, only after sitting at a light for a bit then taking off (puffs out the blue.) #3 plug looked better, but there was a blue smoke comming out of the spark plug whole.
I also checked the bottom of the intercooler again and there seems to be a bit of oil again

So I believe I need new rings, but as for the oil in the intercooler, what is causing this?
Sorry for the long post.
Thanks

[moparzrule]

Oil in the IC is caused by a seal leaking in the turbo.

You need to do a compression test, dry and then wet test.