Woot for Dual Diaphragm thanks

[Reaper1]

I added around 1" or so to the length of my arm on the tranny. It was enough that I could use the other hole in the boss that's already on the tranny for the clutch cable(basically just use the other hole).

In *my* case lengthening the arm made the issue better. The throw IS longer, but it not only takes less effort on the pedal, but you also end up with a slightly longer engagement point. Now, some of it could have been then I replaced the rubber bushing under the cable retainer with a solid part. It also could have been that the cable was able to adjust more than it was before(but I don't thionk that was the case as I don't remember that happening).

In any case it was WELL worth it for me to do that mod. IT may not be in your case, but I think it's worth a shot!

[Ondonti]

I already use the last hole on the trans for normal clutch cable install........

[Reaper1]

OK, but did you lengthen the clutch arm? The last hole is farther away than the stock location and if you don't you've caused a bind!

[mock_glh]

Chris G, I did think about modifying the arm, but my only idea was to make it a little longer. I dont know if that will require drilling a new hole in the trans.

Mine does fully disengage near the floor. No room to adjust that.

Wouldnt lengthening the arm make that worse?

Yes it would, but there is a cure for that. The pedal throw is pretty short on all these cars except for the L-bodies. To fix that you need to notch the plastic adjuster arm where it hits the stop so the pedal can come up higher.

[Reaper1]

I don't wanna sound like a d*ck, but the clutch pedal throw on our cars is HORRIBLE!! It is VERY long from the factory compared to new cars. For my personal preffernce I don't think I'd want the pedal any higher, but that's me...YMMV

[Ondonti]

I had to move the seat up a tiny bit so I dont think I would want the pedal higher

[mock_glh]

Maybe so but if you want to have any significant leverage against a stiff clutch you're going to have to move your leg a little.

[Reaper1]

I think a redesigned clutch pedal quadrant would significantly help this issue. The problem is that it would have to be custom made, more than liely out of aluminum and custom machined...so you're talking $$$ there....

[mock_glh]

I think a redesigned clutch pedal quadrant would significantly help this issue. The problem is that it would have to be custom made, more than liely out of aluminum and custom machined...so you're talking $$$ there....

Yes, a larger radius on the quadrant (I knew there was a name for that thing) plus a longer clutch arm would reduce the strain on the cable while retaining the same pedal throw. It would still be hard to push, though.

[Ondonti]

custom made doesnt mean it would have to be "quality" custom made though :P
You could probably take a stock piece and attach extra material the lazy way. Or do a horrible job on some junk aluminum.

Testing the clutch Friday. 3rd gear burnout wouldnt happen as the tires would spin for about 4 feet and then the engine would bog and the BOV would flutter with turbo surge lol. :P
Much nicer then when i was at the track trying to get the water off my slicks and the engine would stay on the rev limiter when I let off the clutch.
Did some 2nd gear burnouts (no e brake so rolling forward).
Then did a 1 2 3 4 gear run. Almost missed 3rd cause I was trying to be lazy on the heavy clutch. Boiled the brake fluid stopping. Heard a rattle. Then took the car apart, put it back together, accidentally fouled a plug with the coil jumping and it kept fouling so towed it home from bansheenuts.

The clutch is working though
It took all the abuse that the rest of the car couldnt handle.

Hoping to get the plug to behave. Gonna turn up the boost to maybe 14-16 depending on what I have the balls to try and make at least 1 more pass this season. Dont care if I hurt the motor because somethings wrong with it right now. Not sure if its valvetrain or main bearings etc. Rod bearings seem to be okay at the moment. I need to get myself in Study mode so the car really isnt important and would be better off broke. Ill throw a stock motor in for the winter as an extra daily.

I haven't made a pass yet this year on a functional clutch.

[Reaper1]

^^I feel ya on that issue!!!

[bansheenut420]

After riding in this car with this clutch, its not for a DD. The pedal pressure is insane, but I promise he wont be slipping this one anytime soon. It will be an AWESOME setup for the track. Who needs nice engagement on the track with slicks and 5psi off the line anyway.

[Aries_Turbo]

is it a dual turbo diaphragm or TBI?

nice job whittling down the problems. hope to see some higher boost runs.

Brian

[Ondonti]

I dont know what to call it since only 1 diaphragm exists now.

[Ondonti]

It works. Its actually gotten a bit easier then when i first had it. Or I am getting used to it.
1.71 60' and no slip. I guess I didn't need a slipping clutch to get a good 60'

[Reaper1]

OK...so you posted the 60', was that copled to a good run too?!

[Ondonti]

OK...so you posted the 60', was that copled to a good run too?!

Yeah, I think I already spam'd that enough.

[Ondonti]

clutch spun the slicks through 2nd gear friday night. The opposite of when the slicks used to spin the clutch in 2nd :P

[Reaper1]

^^ LMAO!!! Now if I could get to that point! LOL

[Ondonti]

Since I had my car apart I decided to try to make a few things better if possible.

I just built an extended arm. i left the stock hole intact in case i want to go back. Right not its letting go at the floor (maybe not even fully disengaging since I cant start the car at the moment to find out).
Gonna go buy some washers to use as spacers on top of the trans. I dont use the rubber spacer.

Extended is WAY easier but I dont know if its gonna work out like I want it. My disengage was already near the floor.

Last resort could be to add material to the top of the clutch pedal to make that "arm" longer. But I think that is going to make the clutch harder to push...which isn't the point of this exercise.