need cal/fueling advice

[1984rampage]

I have a stage 3 glhs cal from FWD setup for a 2.5L running 15 psi on stock injectors and have blown the motor twice now. The car is an 85 shelby charger converted to glhs electronics. I think the stock injectors arent enough for 15 psi. There was no audible knock the second time it blew. I always run good 93 octane gas. Mods are a glhs IC/radiator and a 2.5" exhaust.

What would you guys recomend to make this car reliable?

Thanks,
James

[MopàrBCN]

First of all, monitor your air fuel mix.

The cheapest is to check your plugs. They never lie. However, they can be misleading. If you have a rich idle and poor full throttle mix and do a lot of city driving they most likely will tell you that all is well until that day that you do some highspeed driving....
Also you could have a vacuum leak leading to the FPR. This would show rich in low rpms and would result lean in boost.

So, in adition to checking plugs the easiest and cheapest is to install is a narrowband A/F Gauge.

However, this only helps at full throttle or whenever O2 Feedback is not used and only tells you rich or lean. But it is a very good indication to where you are AND it helps you knowing how your O2 sensor is...

Now, in my view, this stand alone is not sufficient. I blew my turbo due to basically overheating so I will not live anymore without an EGT Gauge!! It's a pain to install because basically you have to get your manifold off, drill into the right location and install it, but it's worth any second of effort and cent spent. It not only assists you in monitoring part throttle fueling but also can be used as an indication if timing is wrong etc. High EGTs are an alert that something is wrong.

The best for monitoring fueling is a Wideband A/F. BUT this requires a couple of things to bear in mind. First of all, it only is useful if installed correctly. Then it only is giving correct results if calibrated correctly (depnding on model) and at the periodes required.

If you cannot afford any of those you only have one chance to go relatively sure: Keep it close to stock, keep the boost low and frequently monitor plugs, timing, vacuum, oil and filters. Referring to timing, you need to monitor cam and ignition timing. Ignition timing is a good indicator if the cam timing has come off though, provided it initially was all aligned the right way.

Finally read this board and search for "Fuel" "A/F" "SPARC" "TIMING" etc

[1984rampage]

bump. How hard is it to convert to 87 electroncs?

[Spraynlog]

I'll ask a few questions.
What is the part # on the injectors you are using? There is a good reference chart to see what you have in the knowledge section.

What fuel pump are you using, and have you checked the pressure it puts out?

When did you last change your fuel filter?

What temp thermostat do you have?

How about codes? Are any showing up?

If you post up enough info, the problem should be able to be sorted out, there are some pretty savvy guys here!

[cordes]

It is not that hard to convert to 87' electronics especially if you are already running GLHS electronics. I believe you will have to swap a couple of pins at the LM and run the three wires for the under hood map. There is much more support for the 87' LM than there is for the GLHS stuff. There are a couple of 2.5 LM cals out there right now that people are running well with.

I would say that the 27lb injectors that came stock on the early TIs will be stretched pretty thin for my taste at 15PSI in a 2.5. Can you tell from the plugs if you are leaning out? Are you melting the pistons or breaking them?

[tryingbe]

bump. How hard is it to convert to 87 electroncs?

2 hours or less... Less than 10 wires.

[1984rampage]

I'll ask a few questions.
What is the part # on the injectors you are using? There is a good reference chart to see what you have in the knowledge section.

What fuel pump are you using, and have you checked the pressure it puts out?

When did you last change your fuel filter?

What temp thermostat do you have?

How about codes? Are any showing up?

If you post up enough info, the problem should be able to be sorted out, there are some pretty savvy guys here!

Havent checked injector part number yet, but there stock from an 89 2.5 turbo engine. Fuel filter, fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump are all new. 180 degree thermostat and the only codes were somethin like internal computer error and speed/distsance. I here the internal comp error is from having a socketed calibration. Everything else is good.

[cordes]

Havent checked injector part number yet, but there stock from an 89 2.5 turbo engine. Fuel filter, fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump are all new. 180 degree thermostat and the only codes were somethin like internal computer error and speed/distsance. I here the internal comp error is from having a socketed calibration. Everything else is good.

Yes, the code 53 is for the socketed computer. I am thinking it is either not enough fuel, to much timing or both.