'87 Daytona headlamp motor wiring ?'s

[BadAssPerformance]

Now that I have the Z on the road, i want to fix the headlamp motor wiring.

Which color wires on the 50-way connector do I need to switch power to, to make them go up or down with a 3-way switch thru a relay? I no longer have the headlamp module, looking to go direct on this. Anyone want to make me a custom wiring diagram? TIA!

[MiniMopar]

I seem to recall an email that I sent a few years ago that might help. Can look up wire colors if you need it:

Ok, hopefully this ASCII-art works:

   Gnd 12V
    |   |
    O   O
     \ /
Up--O X O--Down
     / \
    O   O

Toggle switches work backwards, because of how the lever pivots.  When
you flip it up, the bottom terminal is connected to the center terminal.
Do when you flip it up, the terminal marked "Up" gets 12V and the one
marked "Down" gets grounded and vice versa.

[BadAssPerformance]

Kickass Russ, I remember that e-mail from when you helped me with the power window swtich!

The PW motor has 2 wires and the HL motor has 4 wires tho which is what has me confused?

[MiniMopar]

Right, I think we were talking about your headlight motors at the time but Dave suggested using a power window motor switch. Anyway, the motors have 4 wires because of the switch. Two wires are for the motor and the other pair is for the switch that senses when the doors are open IIRC. I can put something together for you tonight if no one else has.

I think you were considering doing it all manually: i.e. a self-centering DPDT toggle to control the motors and another toggle to switch on and off the lights. In that case I don't think you need a relay or need to worry about the extra two wires in the motors. Otherwise, you could rig the two extra wires to a relay to make the lights come on automatically once the doors were all the way up.

[BadAssPerformance]

The lights are still on the factory switch and I can check tonight but I think the lights will come on if manually cranked up. So I would just need to add an independant DPDT toggle to run the motors?

[MiniMopar]

Sounds that way. On the 4-pin connector of the motors, the two outer wires are the motor and the two inner wires are the switch. The diagram states that the switch closes when the door is fully open and it shows that the switch is what grounds the headlamps directly (no relay needed) to a ground lug on the front fender shield. I'm not sure how much of the harness you kept, but it seems like if you kept the bits that were in the nose and left them connected to the harness from the headlamp switch, you shouldn't have to do anything to power the lights.

The motor wires are separate from the headlamp stuff. One is dark blue with a yellow stripe and the other is brown with a yellow stripe. These go to the control module and that's what you'd hook up to that switch. This is pin #2 and #3 on the bulkhead connector.

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks Russ, sounds cool. I'll go check right now to see if the lights work when cranked up by hand!

You said no relay needed? I thought I would need a relay to send power to the brown/yl and blue/yl wires?

[MiniMopar]

Not if you rig a toggle switch like in the previous post. The motors don't draw all that much current I expect. You want a DPDT (double-pole, double throw), ON-OFF-ON (3-position), Momentary (springs back to the center "off") toggle switch.

[MiniMopar]

Like these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-DPDT-ON-OFF-ON...QQcmdZViewItem

[BadAssPerformance]

I got that type (you told me last time ) for the DS window. I have that one running right from the fuse box no relay so I guess it works ok...

[BadAssPerformance]

I had to add the blue/yl and brown/yl wired back to the inside of the 50-way and tap some power in the fuse box, but... one DPDT momentary switch later, and its all good! Now two functional power windows and functional headlamps in the Z!

Thanks Russ!

[MiniMopar]

Schweet!

[BadAssPerformance]

Gonna go test those lights out tonight going to teh Elmhust cruise night!