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Thread: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

  1. #1
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Question Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    As most of you know, I am running an 8valve gear, no idler, i've only put a few 1000 km's on and no issues so far BUT now I am moving the distributor to the head, I no longer need to use the larger sprocket. I think the belt will be better off with the idler as I get a strange resonance at 2000 rpm and I think the idler will help. I know the TIII oil pump is over spun so I guess running the 8 valve sprocket helps with pump and gear life.

    Opinions?
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

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  2. #2

    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    i might try that larger one when i rebuild my motor. do you know what belt to use? if it a 8v belt or the stock TIII belt

  3. #3
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    Did you figure out a way to bolt down the power steering bracket without the idler there? Wasn't the head of the bolt contacting the belt?

  4. #4
    boostaholic
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    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    Put the smaller stock one back on and fab up a setup that puts the idler pulley between the run of the intake cam and the I-shaft gear. Thats where Mopar should of put it in the first place. I think that will almost eliminate any problems with the timing belt on a TIII......

  5. #5

    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    pics man? how can you make major breakthroughs and not be able to show anyone

  6. #6
    boostaholic
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    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Xtrempickup View Post
    pics man? how can you make major breakthroughs and not be able to show anyone
    Its a thought that me and a few others have been kicking around but I havent had the time to do it. I have looked at alot of DOHC 4 cylinders and most are set up with an ilder of some sort on each side so it makes alot of sense to me. I dont there will be room for A/C is the only downfall to it. I told Simon to do it because I know how he would like to do something weird like that....

  7. #7
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Xtrempickup View Post
    i might try that larger one when i rebuild my motor. do you know what belt to use? if it a 8v belt or the stock TIII belt
    You use the stock TIII belt and remove the idler pulley at the power steering.


    Quote Originally Posted by iTurbo View Post
    Did you figure out a way to bolt down the power steering bracket without the idler there? Wasn't the head of the bolt contacting the belt?
    Yeah, I used a allen headed bolt and ground it down for clearance, worked great,

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotashelbys View Post
    Put the smaller stock one back on and fab up a setup that puts the idler pulley between the run of the intake cam and the I-shaft gear. Thats where Mopar should of put it in the first place. I think that will almost eliminate any problems with the timing belt on a TIII......
    Well the A/C is going back on, I got the lines redone and painted the compressor. If I keep the 8 valve gear, theres no room for an idler gear.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  8. #8
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Keep the 8 valve oil pump shaft gear or go back to the smaller stock TIII gear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotashelbys View Post
    Its a thought that me and a few others have been kicking around but I havent had the time to do it. I have looked at alot of DOHC 4 cylinders and most are set up with an ilder of some sort on each side so it makes alot of sense to me. I dont there will be room for A/C is the only downfall to it. I told Simon to do it because I know how he would like to do something weird like that....
    Jackson,

    So by doing this and keeping the smaller pulley... you'd wind up with more belt engagement with the teeth on the oil pump/intermediate shaft drive, right? Is there something more I'm missing that you'd gain? All my belt failures have always been teeth failures at the crank pulley -- I had always figured this was due to the crank pulley being the smallest pulley and the extra load on the cam gears. If you could add an idler that increased the area of teeth in contact with the crank sprocket wouldn't you decrease the amount of load each tooth is handling if that's the actual cause of the tooth failure?

    Incidentally, I also ran across this website, the place makes custom belt pulleys and sells belts in just about any width/pitch/length. Individual pieces would not be cheap but neither are Mopar branded T3 belts either. Maybe a longer belt could be found that would keep the existing idler and let you add another idler as well.

    Seth

    http://www.york-ind.com/timing_belts.htm

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