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Thread: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!

  1. #41
    Resident Nuke Turbo Mopar Contributor denviola's Avatar
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    Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!

    Quote Originally Posted by TopDollar69 View Post
    The poly shifter bushings are much much better than the mushy factory ones. I tried several times to remove the factoy ones, and you just can't do it without wrecking them. Here is a link to the ones you need. It takes about 20 minutes to install them on the engine side, but i would do both ends for a nice firm feeling shifter.

    http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/prod...roducts_id=275
    Just installed a set of these in the link above in my 91 Spirit R/T, literally less than one hour work including removing the console, and makes the shifter feel tighter than brand new. Well worth the effort, and shouldn't be too hard for you underhood with the missing bushing.

    Welcome aboard!

    Denny
    SDAC Member, Steel City Chapter SDAC Member, SV-SDAC member, SV-TD Member
    www.sv-td.com
    85 600 ES Turbo Conv., 91 Spirit R/T
    2014 RAM Laramie Longhorn Crew Cab Dually. 6.7 CTD, AISIN, 4.10 gear
    68 GS400 (owned since 1973, someday 455)
    2012 Can-AM RT Limited

  2. #42
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!

    The poly shifter bushings came in and I just finished installing them. Since my original ones were either missing or just about to fall out, I can't compare with good originals, but I can say that the shifting is crisp and feels very nice now.

    Since this is my first experience with cable shifters (only had top or side loaders before), I wasn't aware that there were bushings which were prone to failure until one in my console totally disintegrated and fell out, leaving me with no shifting at all, so I quickly learned of their presence. Of my 4 originals, only the side to side one in the console was good, that coupled with a clutch pedal that doesn't adjust correctly, making the clutch engage just off the floor, made this car the mushiest, worse shifting car ever.

    I shimmed the clutch at the fork end with a cable clamp and some washers for spacer - had to space it a little more than an inch. That fixed my clutch engagement problem, and with the new shifter bushings she shifts very nice and firm.



    I pulled the cable tight to take up the slack, and put some washers in for spacers (held together with the hose clamp) and put a cable clamp on the end. Is this something that's typically done when the pedal self-adjustment stuff doesn't work? I think my clutch pedal self-adjusting mechanism isn't working although I can't see or feel anything wrong with it (I used a mirror to look at the gears). When I pull up on the pedal, I hear nor feel any clicking, and nothing clicks when I press the pedal either.

    I fixed my parking brake cable too. Mine had broken under the console (broke at the end where it goes into the handle mechanism) and I wasted about half a day trying to put it back together. I went to a junkyard and got the replacement cable. It was easy to remove because the yard simply torched the cables at the brakes when they removed the entire rear axles, so the cables were loose. But when I installed the cable on my car, it was a good 4 inches too short (or so I thought). I looked at it forever and there seemed to be no way it was going to fit - the junkyard car had drum brakes and mine are rear disk, so I thought maybe the cables were different length, but that really made no sense to me. Regardless, the cable was way too short so I spent a morning putting together an extension cable with cable clamps and whatnot, tried it, and every time I pulled the handle, nothing moved. So I tightened everything, took out all the slack, tried it - still no movement at the business end of the cable.

    To make a long story short, I didn't need an extension cable at all. Turns out the replacement cable was exactly right - I didn't realize that the circular spring on the handle was totally loose and wasn't supposed to be that way, so the loose spring was what was making me 4 inches short. The trick was to unbolt the handle assembly from the floor and connect the handle cable to the 2 ends coming from each rear brake through the floorboards, and then pull really hard on the handle assembly, tightening the spring and winding it tight, until the handle assembly reached the mounting studs. This tightening of the spring made the cable reach those extra 4 inches. Wish I had known that before I wasted all that time trying to cobble up an extension cable!

    Anyway, now my console is back together, found a matching door handle to replace my broken one, so the only thing left on the interior is to put in a new headliner (it sags) and a new radio.

    Speaking of which, anyone got a radio that will fit this car for sale? Preferably one with a CD player. Gotta start thinking about getting more boost too! We can't get whupped by a Nissan Maxima again!

  3. #43
    Garrett booster
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    Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!

    Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm having more problems with my car again and need some help!

    My dash is loose and it's making my headlights come on and more importantly, turn off at inopportune times! It's squeaking a lot, and I have to wiggle the headlight switch (or push the dash around) to make them come on, and sometimes when they go off (usually from a bump in the road) if I hold the switch down and push the dash around a bit they stay on.

    I've been putting up with the other minor electrical gremlins (wipers with a mind of their own, a dinging bell that sometimes chimes for no apparent reason) but having no headlights is just not acceptable!

    Any advice for taking the dash apart to fix this? I don't know how other year Lebarons are, but my light switch is on the left edge of the semi-circular dash panel (surrounding the gauges) and the wiper switch is on the right edge. It seems the entire half-circle piece is a bit loose.

    Oh - one other problem I had that I fixed already - I was a bit low on gas and suddenly the engine flamed out momentarily as I was cruising down the road. From the gas gauge, it appeared I should still have about 2 gals left so I was surprised the pump was seeming sucking air. So I quickly turned into a gas station and filled her up. Well, that wasn't the problem - she started flaming out more and more (tach dipping drastically) so I nursed her 10 miles to the shop.

    To make a long story short - the problem was my error. I'd put in new plug wires when I resurrected her and didn't realize that the wires on this engine went through the distributor cap and "became" the terminals. You have to stick these wires in really far and make sure they go all the way through the cap and snap into place. I guess you really need to put the wires into the cap first, make sure they're in place right, and then put the cap on. I treated these like any other distributor cap I've seen, where the terminals are molded into the cap and just pushed the wires in.

    Well, I didn't get one of the wires all the way seated so the terminal end was still buried in the cap, but it still fired for 2000 miles before it'd arced enough to eat up the plastic around that terminal and start misfiring.

    Maybe this unique distributor cap info could be placed in the knowledge base to help newbies from making my mistake.

    If anyone could give me some advice on the light switch I'd appreciate it. Fleck - if you're reading this and I don't have this fixed by the weekend of your get-together, this will be something else to work on!

  4. #44
    Bad Mother Flecker Turbo Mopar Staff fleckster's Avatar
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    Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!

    I sure hope you can stop by regardless if you have your LeBaron straightened out or not! I'd be happy to assist either way. If you want, I'll be happy to loan you my '92 Chrysler Service Manuals if you want to see if that would be helpful in working on items in the dash.

    John M. Fleck

    '83 Dodge Rampage 2.2 w/ 2.5L Turbo 14.79@94
    '87 Shelby Lancer #213 14.99@94
    '89 Chrysler LeBaron GT Turbo 'vert 15.88@92
    '92 Dodge Spirit R/T 13.50@104 ; 13.34@102 on slicks
    '98 Dodge Neon R/T 15.66@89
    '03 Dodge SRT-4 13.91@98

  5. #45
    boostaholic BIGBRUDDA's Avatar
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    Re: Help! I've the slowest turbo Lebaron ('92 T1 manual) known to man!

    Get one of the switches from Flecks scrap-out party. Hose it good with contact or carb cleaner. They accumilate dust readily! Check all the snap-in anchors for the rattle. And get a wad of foam to build up loose panels.

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