Does anyone have the alignment specs for an H body. I figure they are all the same, but if it makes a difference mine is an 88.
Does anyone have the alignment specs for an H body. I figure they are all the same, but if it makes a difference mine is an 88.
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Maybe If Your Nice, Your Aligment Shop, Coud Tell You The Specks,,lol
Take Care, Wicked
DO NOT GO BY WHAT AN ALIGNMENT SHOP TELLS YOU!! I'm getting tired of repeating this, need to sticky this stuff.
The stock settings (what's puked out of the computer at the shop) makes for an understeering, low handling grocery getter that will squeel the front tires long before you get anywhere near a dangerous cornering speed so that soccer mom doesn't panic and have the rear end come around on her.
Now if you like to take corners hard, know what an apex and entry and exit angles are and like to still daily drive the vehicle these are the settings for your.
Front:
-1.5 camber on each side
0.0 Toe for Poly, maybe a hair of toe out for stock bushings.
Caster is non-adjustable just needs to be equal on each side, un equal could mean something is bent.
Rear:
-1.0 Camber on each side
0.0 Toe Toe out will make the rear more swing happy and toe in will make it more stable but I like 0 toe.
Caster obviously doesn't apply.
If you don't like to rip corners at the max all the time but still want better than stock just reduce the negative camber.
so Front you'd have -1.0 and rear you'd have -0.5.
Setting the camber up with a half degree split makes makes the car very neutral with just a hint of oversteer. The more camber you have the higher the limits unless you go too much. -2.0 and higher is on the verge of that.
I run the high settings above on all my cars and love it. I need to go down to -1.2 in the front of my daytona but only because I have SS bushings in the front LCA's and there is ZERO flex so the car wants more of a .3 degree difference. I have zero issues running the cars like this. It's a good street and track setup. If you have a dedicated track car then you might want to run a bit more camber but that's it. I've been working on these settings since I started driving FWD cars which is almost 15 years now. They're great.
Warning: Watch the apex on the 1st couple turns you take with these settings, the car like to turn so well that if the apex is a straight big curb you'll run right into it unless you're careful.
Wow thats the best info I've ever received in response to a question. At least from the same person on one topic that is. Well that said what is a good way to measure your camber without taking it somewhere? I have some degree finders from work as I work at a machine shop and I was going to make a makeshift axle extention to stick it to(the base is magnetic) that is as close to true wheel center as I'm going to get. Also negative camber means the top of the wheel goes in more correct?
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the problem is if you change the camber you change the toe too. So I always just take it in and have it setup on the machine. Yes, negative is when the top of the wheel points in towards the other wheel.
Well I'm only setting it cause someone took the struts out to remove the axles when they pulled the 555 out of this rolling heap I'm putting back on the road. I guess I will get as close to stock with the camber so the toe isn't out of whack bad and take it in when money permits.
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how do you align the rear camber? i had my front set to -1.5 and 0 toe but havent had the rear touched as they obviously didn't know how to.
In case this needs more stressing:Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2
DO NOT GO BY WHAT AN ALIGNMENT SHOP TELLS YOU!!
Can't be more true then this!!
Let's play cars.....:bump2: [URL="http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2909181"]Visit my ride[/URL] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
On the rear you typically put shims in where the hub bolts to plate on the trailing arm to change the angle of the wheel. I think someone on here was making aluminum spacer/shims but I don't know who.
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That would be OMNI-Potent
http://www.omnipotentparts.com/produ...Axle%20Spacers
there is the link for the spacers
No no no, those spacers are entirely different. They're just square flat spacers to increase the rear track. Which according to ed peters helped the handling of the GLH.
Ok!!!!!!!!! I Was Talking About A Grocery Getter,lol
If I had a dedicated grocery getter I'd go -1.0 in the front and -0.5 in the back. The alignment shops specs are so out of whack they'll have a full degree of positive camber in the front end. So when you take a corner or driving straight you're riding the outside edge of the tire. Now when cornering it pushes on the LCA, the bushings flex and you get even more positive camber. So now you're cornering on the sidewall. Not good, A) because there's less grip and B) the sidewall is only 2 plies
My car has poly bushings in the front, but I don't think I will go with stock at all either then. Tires are just your run of the mill 60 series with a rain/dry tread. They say all season, but I had some like them once on an 87 baron coupe I used to have and they sucked.
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ok, i need those spacers for my daytona...
who sells them?
Thats excellent advice on the settings. But what about a drag application? I know on my Belvedere we set it with me in the car and the front end at say "half track" ride height to get the least rolling resistance for straightline. Could the same principle be applied to our cars as well?
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...4&postcount=10ok, i need those spacers for my daytona...
who sells them?
Austrian Dodge and ACR Turtle, Please post #11 in this thread. Those spacers are meant for the GLH/GLHS only. Not the Non-Lbody cars. They are NOT ALIGNMENT shims.
sticky maybe?
they outlawed stickies, just ask Simon
Last edited by Speedeuphoria; 07-14-2008 at 02:03 PM.
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