FS: Full forged common block lower end

[quantum]

Well I started building a really nice engine not too long ago and then recently sold the car I was going to put it in to help buy baby stuff. Here are the stats of the lower end:

2.2L 8V
89 Common block (tanked, fluxed, .020 over with torque plate, align bore honed, all new bearings).
Balance shafts removed
New ARP main studs
Forged crank (fluxed, checked, polished)
New K1 forged rods from TU
New .020 over Weisco pistons
New mopar (stock, not performance) oil pump & clevite pickup (full screen, no covering metal)
New TU baffled oil pan
New ARP head studs
All new mopar gaskets and seals
Fully balanced, professionally built (local machine shop, they seem to do really nice work though slow as sin)
Comes with a 287 G head and a ported 1 piece intake as well.

I'm looking to get ~$3000. I'm willing to supply a head gasket and bolt the head on to make this a long block, but since the head is stock I figured I would leave it off since it would probably get worked over. I'll post some pics up later when I have a chance.

[quantum]

Bump.

I picked up the block from the machine shop and found my definition of a completed "short block" is apparently narrow minded. The rotating assembly is all together, but they left me the front and back crank seals to put on as well as the oil pan and intermediate shaft . I'll post up some pics once I get a few hours to finish bolting it up and paint the block.

[quantum]

Finally got pics.

[moparzrule]

Looks sweet Chris.

[inmyshadow]

I'm curious, why is the balance shaft gear still on the crank?

I had the machine shop remove my gear while they have the motor. I figured it was less rotational weight slowing my 2.5 down.

later

[quantum]

I didn't bother taking it off, I doubt the extra few ounces will make that much difference.

[stormy69]

what belt do you use once its removed?

[1FastCSX289]

what belt do you use once its removed?

He's talking about the thin gear that rides INSIDE of the block.....it usually drives a chain that turns a balance shaft assembly in the oil pan. Most guys remove the balance shaft assembly and leave the gear on the crank.

[turbovanman²]

I would personally leave it on, it acts like an oil slinger and helps stop the front crank seal from leaking.

[gvare001]

Chris, 89 2.2 cars shouldn't have BS right? So the crank has to be from a 1990 VNT for it to be forged right?

[moparzrule]

^Good call, you are probably correct.

[quantum]

Chris, 89 2.2 cars shouldn't have BS right? So the crank has to be from a 1990 VNT for it to be forged right?

Correct.

[1FastCSX289]

IS that a new oil drain plug too? Im thinking about it now.

That motor does look sweet. Free bump anyways!

[quantum]

IS that a new oil drain plug too?

Nothing but the best. lol

[bluneon]

so is the bs gear still on the crank?

[Xtrempickup]

if that motor had the correct pistons for my 16V id buy it just because it would save me building my short block i have

[1FastCSX289]

if that motor had the correct pistons for my 16V id buy it just because it would save me building my short block i have

Just get out your grinder and cut some valve reliefs. Dont even remove them from the motor.....just get right down there in them cylinders and carve away. Its FINE.

[quantum]

so is the bs gear still on the crank?

Yes.

if that motor had the correct pistons for my 16V id buy it just because it would save me building my short block i have

If your interested I'll pull the pistons and reduce the price $500. Of course that will negate the ballance and the clearance for your pistons may be different.

[Xtrempickup]

right now i have a good price for my machine work so il have to go ahead and order my pistons and get rolling, also you have a distrubtor hole, i dont, R/Ts had a coil pack, that hole doesnt help me any

[bluneon]

willing to ship? is the BS plug removable? as in i'm going to need to reuse my BS assy.