Flash Module 'kit' (assemble and install yourself) $40-50
Assembled flash module for $60-75 (install yourself)
Fully built flashable SMEC/SBEC $150-175
I could totally do that if you want to send one out for Simon and I to test and mess around with for you. I have all the stuff to do surface mount soldering at work and his instructions look good. What sort of setup is recommended to do this in terms of computer and connecting to the computer?
No probably the cable will be extra, and I'll sell it seperately since you can use the cable for other things as well. I want to build the cables with the SCI connector already installed to eliminate issues people have there. I'd also like to build/sell cables based on the FTDI chips (USB to TTL); though D-Cal doesn't support them right now.Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2
Maybe we could work out a deal for your SMEC cores in exchange for a couple flashable SMECs?
Serial cable and rs-232 interface. Then of course you have to drill a hole in my head to pour in the D-cal knowledge and all the tables to play with.
I'd like one for a SBEC. Swapping the chips all the time kinda sucks.
"kinda sucks" is the understatement of the year.
Testing isn't really an issue. I'm running this module in my car right now. Have been for 2 years.
To flash the SMEC, you need D-Cal or SMEC flash (there are a couple others that might work, too); and a serial cable (which I also plan to build/sell).
Would a serial to USB work on an older laptop installed in the car with datalogging?
Sure we could work out a deal. I can get more if you need more than the ones of mine Jason has. Shoot me a PM or email at Oakley1@ix.netcom.com
It's been tried with D-Cal and it does NOT work. Must be the way Derek wrote the serial code, but it only works with a real PC serial port. There is a program called SBEC-Flash that has editing and datalogging capabilities (as well as flashing for SBEC's) and it works with the FTDI-based USB to serial chips/cables. But I have not had a chance to try it at all. It's posted over on moparchem.com, I think.
I bought the chip extender from Moates. I might have bought the last one though it's on backorder now LOL. But, it's only $20, and $9 for the cable. Basically like $35 shipped, and the cable fits through where the 20 pin connector is on the SMEC nicely so no cutting was needed. I bought the 18'' cable, there's also a 36''. I leave it beside the battery wrapped in a red rag, takes 30 seconds to change the chip now!
I can see how just hooking up the laptop is to flash the SMEC is easy, but I HATE electrical wiring with a passion so setting this system up to me would be a PITA. This was a way cheaper option and works very well IMO. I can still bring my laptop and burner with me, and the whole process to take the chip out, re-burn a new cal, and re-install the chip might take 3-5 minutes.
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...roducts_id=172
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=64
You plug the cable into your diagnostic connector, run the cable (1/4" diameter maybe) into the car and then you just plug your laptop into it. Easy Peasy. Oh i guess you also have to run a wire from pin 12 to a 12v source with a switch in between. OOOH i find this much better than having the chip and board out where it can get wet. zzzzzt, oh now you're stuck in the middle of BFE with a fried car.
Hi, this is cool and I just oredered one as well and even in my case 59$ shipped were worth it!
BUT, I still would buy a flashable SMEC, because doing all from the comfort of my drivers seat without having to burn anything is worth the extra dollars.
I say this because let's face it, if you start out with a new calibration, until you get it up and running the way you like it you burn initially 4-8 chips (and if you are a newby like me even more...). And even after you got it alright, while driving you come up with ideas etc, this is where I wished lot's of times to just need my laptop and connect it to see how this idea would work.
I personally think, the biggest show stopper for not getting involved in doing your own cal is having to socket your SMEC in the first place. This is something for example I wouldn't dare trying. However, I feel very comfortable with CHEM2. It's excellent. I was lucky enough that someone on this bord sold me two socketed boards in perfect condition....
Then of cause there is the fact that everytime you change something you got to swap chips. If there were someone with reputation doing a flashable smec at a reasonable cost, there would be easyly a market and the positive side effect would be a much larger code base to work from.
Let's play cars.....:bump2: [URL="http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2909181"]Visit my ride[/URL] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I honestly don't see how water could get up by the battery, my battery tray has never been wet. Secondly, even if it did get water up there I have the chip wrapped in the red shop rag, which is pretty water resistant.
well I didn't have my chip completey covered on a smec hit a puddle and got just a bit ofwater on it. Fried the old style flashing hardware. Thankfully the car still ran but it wouldn't flash. I had jason build me a new one and sealed it up with RTV so NO water can get there. My smec is even in an enclosed SS cold airbox and inside the factory case. Just saying anything can happen, so the better protected it is the better.
engine bays are hot. those areas can dry fast. 5digits calls this area of the ecu "the graveyard" or something like that. if any water makes it in the snorkel (heavy rain, splashing through a puddle, snow packing in the front of the car) it will make it to where the rom is because its on the bottom.
Brian
oh yeah... even in a shop rag in the engine bay it can get wet matt. best bet is to seal the extender cable in the smec and then get a sealed, easy to open container (tupperware?) and jimmy the cable into it and seal that and lock those components in that case.
Brian
I would love a kit personally! :P
LMK if you need help with that, Rob. I have a spare usb-ttl converter laying around here that I bought when I was working on getting them to work with my LM. I was looking at your minidash instructions to see what I needed to drop the 12v to 5v @ the sci connector. If I can ever find the 2 connectors I need to bench test my smec, I'm going to work on it while port my datalog programs and sci port connectivity.
Although, I can't understand why it doesn't work with dcal out of the box. It appears like a normal serial port for all intents and purposes. Mine works with all the datalog programs I've tried.
Might be worthwhile to toss a desiccant pack in there too. Probably not necessary, but it would be a little extra insurance against moisture.
Tony
OK, so far looks like the majority vote for a complete turn-key SMEC/SBEC. I need to do some work on the schematic to get the SBEC version ready. PLus, the baord supplier is on hiatus from July 25 thru Spetember. So, I likey won't have anything until well into the fall. Which is fine since I'm busy as hell with cal orders right now anyway...
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