Pedal quit in the Rampage today on the way to work. About a mile later it was back and I had full brakes again. this is the second time this week. Brand new lines, calipers and master. Could the booster be going out? Upgrade options?
Pedal quit in the Rampage today on the way to work. About a mile later it was back and I had full brakes again. this is the second time this week. Brand new lines, calipers and master. Could the booster be going out? Upgrade options?
No brake as in petal on the floor and car won't stop or no brake as there is no power assist?
Most of my experience is with building manual stuff. So excuse me if I say something really stupid.
How about air in the lines? Make sure the MC is full and all of the air is out.
I've also had things go soft with a leak ... a very, very, very minor leak. you need two people to double check for sure.
is your new master cylinder a rebuilt unit?
1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!
rebuilt unit and no brake as in pedal on the floor.
It could be(sounds like it to me) the seals in master cylinder rolling over. This does happen on some rebuilds. Thats my .02 cents.
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
haha everyone learns the hard way with those rebuilt MC's
most likely your culprit.
1988 Lancer Shelby 2.2TII 1989 Shadow ES 2.5TI 1992 Lebaron Sedan 3.0Auto 1993 Acclaim 2.5TI-A520 Hoard parts now!
Stand by to get stomped by Turbovanman.Originally Posted by W.P._Turbocars
He had a BIG rant in the last 6 months about rebuilt master cylinders. That sucker is
BAD I say BAD. BAD!!!!!!!!
That is exactly why you should NEVER buy a rebuilt master. They go without warning. A new one will creep down while sitting as it goes bad.
Always buy new master cylinder, it says.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19395
ok I'll try the new one out, but if it is still doing the same thing I guess onto a booster? Truck has late model Shadow brakes up front and non vented disc in back with a 4w. Disc prop. What kind of booster should I go for if the master doesn't help? (Just waning to cover all bases just incase so I don't have to ask at a later time:
Going straight to the floor is the master. Booster will give a hard pedal. Bad booster=no power assist?
I think master cylinder rebuilders should be certified by DOT. If 99% aren't good in quality control checks, shut em down.
Im shure youve probably solved the problem by now but there is a real easy way to tell if it is the booster or the master cyl. Simply remove the vac line from the booster and plug it so your not loosing vac. Now I would suggest taking a test drive in a very unpopulated area or parking lot. Note, the brakes of course will be a lot harder to use since your not getting any help from your booster. If the pedal goes to the floor again its the master cyl. I had a 74 charger that had the same problems. I went through 3 master cyl.s thinking I was getting shitty rebuilds then my father suggested unplugging the booster. Presto no more problems. When I would plug it back in it would go for like a day before the booster would start acting up again. The cheapest booster I could find at the time was over 300 clams, so I never did replace it. HOWEVER, that car with manual brakes was almost impossible to bring to any kind of quick stop. Therefore I didnt even dare take the car anywhere near traffic of any kind. Also if it makes any kind of popping sound when your peadal hits the floor also a good sign of a booster failure.
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