Where do I begin?

[CaptMoe]

I just purchased a 1993 IROC R/T.

What is the most important mod to begin with, the one that will serve as a foundation for all future mods?

Thanks in advance...

Moe

[turbovanman²]

Welcome,

For starters, you should give it a once over, change all fluids, I would run synthetic engine oil, change all the belts, good tune-up with the wires I sell, , replace the oxygen sensor with an NTK or OEM unit.

Loosen the galley coolant plugs and replace with aluminium ones from www.fwdperformance.com.

Then you can add an air fuel guage-I prefer a dawes, 4 stupid proof LED's, boost guage, replace the exhaust, add an MBC or EBC.

This will be a great start,

[Turbo224]

Like Simon said, basic tune up with new plugs and wires, new fluids all around, and a good set of gauges are always a good idea if you are going to start modifying stuff. As for "one mod to build upon" on these cars, there really isn't anything like the stage 1 comp for your PT that is made for the T3cars. Much like any other turbo car, a K&N filter, and a good 3" exhaust will make a load of difference. A mbc is also a good idea, especially when you get the fuel system mods to support higher boost.

I think you will find that a front mount IC is a pretty common mod because the stocker gets heat soaked easily and doesn't flow all that well.

As for the headplugs, like I told you over on PT Crew, if I were you I wouldn't touch them. If the car has 80k miles on it and the head hasn't cracked with the steel plugs, I wouldn't fool with anything.

[MopàrBCN]

Well, the most importand mod, you've already done in getting you a great car!

In my view there is only one important mod, and this is already said, the general tune up.

If it was my car this is what I would do regardless of its state of tune:

---GET A FACTORY MANUAL and get all of them - Especially Diagnostics and Wiring alongside a Haynes or Chilton. Apart from that there is redundancy between the Factory Manual and Haynes/Chilton they actually do complement each other

1. Change PCV Valve
2. Change Thermostat - 185º with tiny drilled hole on top
3. Change Fluids and Oil Filter (see http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html)
4. Clean Cooling System
5. Check (and in my opinion if still factory CHANGE) Vacuum lines!!
6. Replace Plugs (AND ANALYZE THE OLD ONES!), Cables and Rotor
7. Check Breaks and change pads if required - the same with the rotors
8. Change Break Fluid
9. Check all Suspension Bushings and Motor Mounts and if you plan on modding your car I would replace them right away with solid stuff
10. Check Turbo Hoses (IC Hoses most importantly) and Oilfeed and Coolant lines going to and from the turbo
11. Check Shocks, Struts and Springs as already with the stock tune handling is important!
12. Get a new Air Filter (K&N Drop in and clean Airbox)
13. CHANGE o2 Sensor (Go Mopar on that one)
14. REPLACE TIMING BELT (at least check it but I would replace it right away to be done with it)!!!
15. Check CAM and Ignition Timing and take action depending on results

Everything else depends on what you want to do with your car.

IF I wanted to get more out of it my action plan would be this:

1. Get a good flowing exhaust system (this is the first mod because without it all others won't work) It is in itself already a notable mod.
2. Check Compression and depending on the results take action
3. Get your head and turbo off the car. Check Surfaces, Check/Clean Valves, Swap Gaskets, Change Turbo Lines with the better flowing once from the vendors here on the board. Take actions necesary resulting from the state of the head.
-Do this before modding anything because you WILL have to do this at one point anyway - modded you will do it sooner and propably at a time you don't need the hussle

Get a strategy and follow this. But beforehand, get as much information as there is. You got a lot of ways going faster. The first 50-80 hp are the cheapest. Everything else will affect your budget. But if you chancing your luck the cheapest mods will turn out very expensive if you don't get the basis right.

This is all said from my own experience. I am sure there are lot's of different views on my view.
IF your modding your car and rely on it make sure that you always have some money on side! You'll need it!

[CaptMoe]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

The coolant plugs are aluminum. There appears to be a slight crack forming by the #3 plug so I'll have to keep an eye on it and hope it's not a crack. Will have to check it with some dye.


Here is a list of things on the car, according to the previous owner:

A568 5 speed (w/Booger bushings and Redline MTL oil)
New A/C Condenser/Dryer
New Water Pump
New Oil Pump
New Intermediate shaft/bearing
New valve cover gaskets
New Idler pulley bearing
New O2 sensor (O2 harness rerouted)
Adjustable Cam Gears
Braided SS Turbo oil lines
Silicon Vacuum hoses
Oil Cooler
Relocated Oil Filter
New Koni Shocks/Struts (Adjustable)
New Upper Strut Mounts
New Rear (painted) Brake Calipers
Poly Front Motor mount
semisolid rear bobble strut
Front axles rebuilt
New Auto lite 63 plugs
Magnacor wires
New timing belt
New drive belt
K&N air filter
RobertShaw 180' Thermostat
2&1/2 inch exhaust w/Borla muffler
ND Computer

Sorry, I should have put this up earlier...

Moe

[turbovanman²]

Wow, the previous owner spent alot of money, The best part is, you have Koni's, which are no longer available,

In that case, get some guages, probably some +20's, afpr, a bigger intercooler and either an MBC or EBC. I now use an EBC and will never go back to an MBC,

[CaptMoe]

How do the BCs work and what is the advantage of each type, manual or electric?
Do they just allow you to raise boost levels without any other mods?

What is an afpr?

What is the best FMIC to get for this car?

As soon as I get a chance I'm going to pull the ND pcm and try to get a part # of off it so I can determine what stage it is. The previous owner wasn't sure and he thought boost was between 17-19psi. On the road trip I pinned the stock gauge a few times at 15 so an aftermarket gauge will be on my list.
Any suggestions on boost gauges?

[2.216VTurbo]

You can read the part # on the injectors, then we will know what size they are. If it's got an ND computoer, likely they are already +20's or +40's.

AFPR+ adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Next mod should be to put up some pics on here You joined the TM crowd just in time for the yearly SDAC convention in Detroit next weekend

[turbovanman²]

How do the BCs work and what is the advantage of each type, manual or electric?
Do they just allow you to raise boost levels without any other mods?

What is an afpr?

What is the best FMIC to get for this car?

As soon as I get a chance I'm going to pull the ND pcm and try to get a part # of off it so I can determine what stage it is. The previous owner wasn't sure and he thought boost was between 17-19psi. On the road trip I pinned the stock gauge a few times at 15 so an aftermarket gauge will be on my list.
Any suggestions on boost gauges?

Boost Controllers allow you to turn up or down the boost, depending on mood, fuel available etc. I used a Dawes MBC or Manual boost controller for years but the downside is to adjust, you need to get out unless you run it inside the car. I switched to a Profec Type S and will never go back, its friggin sweet,

You can turn the boost up as long as you have the fuel, which you need a air fuel guage or wideband. Again, the dawes is my favourite and its very accurate. both TU and FWD carry it. I like it because its stupid proof, you only need to watch for the red, if you do, lift NOW.

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/prod...products_id=57

FMIC, theres 100's of options, so I'll leave that for other guys.

As Alan said, get the number off the fuel injector and match it up here-

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_fuel.html

[Turbo3Iroc]

The coolant plugs are aluminum. There appears to be a slight crack forming by the #3 plug so I'll have to keep an eye on it and hope it's not a crack. Will have to check it with some dye.

The common place for the heads to crack is between the center core plug and #3 cyl. I've also seen one crack on the #2 side. If you suspect you have a crack starting go run the car pretty hard for awhile and make sure its fully hot. Then pop the hood and you will see the green residue in the crack. It's also possible to notice it after it's dried.

[CaptMoe]

Injector stamping shows they are stock.

I'm going to try and get the # off of the ND computer today...

[CaptMoe]

Next mod should be to put up some pics on here.

Here you go...

[2.216VTurbo]

Very sharp! Bummer about the crack in the head but it did get you over 600 miles without any tow-home maladies

[Blue Iroc R/T]

One mod that I didn't see mentioned so far that I have on my car is a Shift Light. To me, when I am really into it, or racing, there are just so many things to pay attention to and listen to, that the shift light really helps to make that shift at just the right time. Here is the one that I have and it is mounted in the A/C vent (out of site for Judged car shows), just like in the video clip on this site: http://www.harlan-engineering.com/store/store.html
Except when you start the car, until you hit the RPM Shift point, you don't even know that it is there.

[Turbo224]

I drove my R/T for about 5k miles with a small crack in the head. The crack was only small enough for a tiny amount of coolant to seep out though. I just kept my eye on the coolant level and I never had a problem. I certainly wouldn't advise you to forget about it, but dont be too concerned about driving it around untill you are ready to pull it off and get it fixed.

[CaptMoe]

Coolant level didn't drop.
I'm going to keep an eye on it and just take care of the maintenance items for now.

As I posted above, the injectors are stock.
I tried looking at the PCM but couldn't find a part #. There is a thin silver tag on it that is worn out. There are no markings IDing it as an ND computer but nothing showing a Chrysler part # either.

1st order of business will be to have the front end checked, aligned, wheels balanced and brakes checked...

[turbovanman²]

You will have to take the computer apart and maybe he has a number on the chip?

[CaptMoe]

You will have to take the computer apart and maybe he has a number on the chip?

I tried doing that but the 8mm bolt holding the connector in just kept spinning and the connector never loosened. Was I doing something wrong?
I took off the 2 bolts to the fender and the 6 torx screws holding it together. But it wouldn't come apart because of the wires still being on it...

[CaptMoe]

Ok, I am finally getting the car dynoed today.
Heading down to Maximum PSI which is run by Mike Radowski. I will post my numbers when I get back.

Anyone want to take a shot at what I'm putting down?
Mildly ported cyl head, titanium retainers, 2.5" exhaust(w/cat) and a MBC set @ 14psi. Those are the only mods I can think of that would affect HP...

[Mario]

Does he have a Mustang dyno? I can't remember.