Any tricks to getting the driver's side dp nut to hold still long enough to tighten the dp bolt? I use to be able to fit a 1/2" wrench in at an angle, but with the new swingvalve, there's no room.
Any tricks to getting the driver's side dp nut to hold still long enough to tighten the dp bolt? I use to be able to fit a 1/2" wrench in at an angle, but with the new swingvalve, there's no room.
It's easy. Go get a 8x1.25mm STI (heli-coil) tap, and some 8x1.25 heli-coils. Then just run the tap into the downpipe flange and install your heli-coil. Now you have no need for studs. The metal on the SV is soft enough that the tap taps great with some oil/lube. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2913
Shows studs just for demonstrative purposes. They're also straight and parallel but the pic makes them look like they're flared out a bit.
thiis is what I was talking about in the other thread. Its a very tight fit. Havent had to deal with it 100% though
Due to casting/machining variations the bolt hole location can be different. Easiest thing to do is grind down the top of the nut to give you more clearance. I know others have ground down a little of the tab too. The 63A/R housing is also larger so you could even grind off a little there to gain clearance.
Chris-TU
Chris Wright www.TurbosUnleashed.com Chris@TurbosUnleashed.com 602-76-BOOST Tech/Sales#: Monday-Saturday 9AM-7PM MST Proudly Serving the Turbo-Mopar Community since 1997 TU is a performance, not marketing company. We provide accurate performance data on all our performance products. Fabricating data to make us appear better is just not our style. Do the research before you buy. ROCK BOTTOM PRICES WITHOUT THE HIDDEN HANDLING FEES.... -----HOME OF THE 9 SECOND FWD T-M CLUTCH-----
I would weld-braze a small bit of coat hanger or weld rod to the nut to hold the nut. Some have done it like that around here here. A few weeks back I just set it there and hit the bolt with an air ratchet and let it zip up- got REAL lucky though.
Here's an idea...
Chamfer the nut hole and/or grind the bolt end to a slight point. That might help to line things up better.
I haven't tried this yet but I'd like to hear back from anyone that does.
Chris-TU
Chris Wright www.TurbosUnleashed.com Chris@TurbosUnleashed.com 602-76-BOOST Tech/Sales#: Monday-Saturday 9AM-7PM MST Proudly Serving the Turbo-Mopar Community since 1997 TU is a performance, not marketing company. We provide accurate performance data on all our performance products. Fabricating data to make us appear better is just not our style. Do the research before you buy. ROCK BOTTOM PRICES WITHOUT THE HIDDEN HANDLING FEES.... -----HOME OF THE 9 SECOND FWD T-M CLUTCH-----
I drilled and tapped mine and put in some stainless studs, with some nuts on top for safey's sake. I'll never have to fight those bolts again!
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
I have the nut started, heck that was hard enough. I just don't have anything small enough to get at the nut to hold it still enough to tighten the bolt. I may just weld something onto the nut to hold it in place.
Using studs is a really good idea. SS should be hard enough to handle the load. Seems like you'd need a sleeve of some sort so you can bottom the outside nut to keep it from backing out.
Heli-coils took less than 10 mins to do. And then you just screw the fatory bolt right in. They could even be done with the turbo in the car. EASY PEASY JAPANEASY
Are helicoils stainless?
yes. So they're probably less likely to rust and sieze the bolt in there.
Hmmm...maybe I'll do that this time. I got an old exhaust manifold nut in there, but I am fearful it will never come out if left there for a few years. The head is coming out this year, so maybe I'll put helicoils or studs in.
Thanks for the idea!
just jam a flat blade screwdriver in there to hold the nut to tighten.
I ended up using my older bolt/nut. Reason being, the new one I purchased had a nut that was a crimp-type lock nut, and I didn't have enough force with just my hand to hold it still in order to tighten it. The old one was just a flared nut and that one I could hold easily and I got everything tightened.
Reeves and I just did this exact thing to my car with nutserts (much better than a helicoil), I can remove and install my exhaust downpipe in a matter of seconds
yea, nutserts rock too, pretty much what turbonetics does with the 2.5" swingvalve. I just used heli-coils because I had them around for doing intake/exhaust manifold holes. Either way you get some good threads in there so you don't have to fight with the bloody nuts.
I always got lucky and never really needed to get a wrench on that bastard nut, just the pressure from my finger is able to hold it, and enuff to break it loose as well!
its quite the PITA tho....I think im going to heli coil this sucka (since its prolly what i can get done 4 free lol)
James Reeves - Reeves Racing
World's Fastest 8 Valve - 146.88 mph
86 GLH-T 9.99 at 143.78 mph
86 GLHS #169 Mom's - complete Super 60 car
87 Shelby Z 14.16 Dad's - mostly stock, no sh*t!
88 Shelby Z 13.5 - been in storage for 15 years
03 SRT-4 12.24 Mom's
07 Charger 5.7L 12.48 Dad's