who is using this? it says 18 psi up to 29 psi. if i want to run a dual stage with the low stage around 12 psi would i be able to do that? plus it says 93 octane a minimum, we don't have much access to 93, would 92 be ok? thank you
who is using this? it says 18 psi up to 29 psi. if i want to run a dual stage with the low stage around 12 psi would i be able to do that? plus it says 93 octane a minimum, we don't have much access to 93, would 92 be ok? thank you
You should be able to call up Cindy and tell her about your setup, and she should be able to adjust the cal accordingly. You won't be able to run 29PSI just by switching to the cal though. +40s won't flow nearly enough fuel for that on a 8v.
How much boost can you run safely w/ +40's?Originally Posted by cordes
-Jim Too many cars, not enough time..
That is really a loaded question because there are so many factors, and it all depends on your definition of the word safe. I would say that 100% DC would come at about 24PSI for most of us if not a little sooner. I ran my 2.5 shadow at 22PSI for an entire summer, but it was far from ideal, I probably could have run faster with a lower boost, and I don't know how it stayed together.
Liek Cordes said that is a loaded question. Any "How much boost" question really depends on teh rest of the setup and mainly the turbo. For example a big hybrid will flow a crapload more CFM than a stock mitsu at the same boost level.
JT
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+40s seem to be OK on my 2.5 at 27 psi with a super 70 turbo.
SDAC member "It's not the ride, it's the rider."
Slasky's post made me think...
If you have 40psi in the intake but if it is a stock head, +40's might still be ok? Its all about CFM.
JT
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If you can keep the air cool enough that would probably be true. The mass of air is what determines what fuel you will need to burn. I know that over 400HP has been made on +40s alone, although that was on a TIII if I am not mistaken.
I know some of you guys are against alky/meth injection, but I would think that if you run something bigger than +40's to reach a certain amount of power you will kill your driveability and/or fuel economy not that you'd be going for it at that point. Also lots of boost doesn't always equal lots more go. Gary D's car ran 10's using fairly stock( I use this term loosely in this example) components, but it was the whole package that worked well. To take full advantage of stage 5 definitely consider all the complimenting pieces it recommends. Its a pretty good cal from what I've heard, but even better when you throw something like alky injection in with it.. Like JT said however different turbo setups are going to flow completely differently so I would definitely take those factors into consideration before ordering any cals or at least be very up front when you do so they can recommend or suggest any pieces of the puzzle you may want to add or take away.
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89,
You could get away with 92 octane and 20 psi or so with good plugs and stock timing/turbo.
I have had this STG 5 cal in and out of my car for several setups. I had it on a basically stock setup and now what I call a Super Stock setup. The good news is that it has been dependable. And the car feels pretty quick. But it has some oddities if you want a mack daddy tune.
We have done some pulls up to 27 psi on this cal and it WON'T f-ing lean out to save it's life. It continues to increase duty cycle to 100+ range. At 4400 rpm and 25 psi it starts to go into the 90's all the way to 112????? Here is the kicker with a 9.8 to 10.2 afr. I want the ----- to lean out as the base fuel pressure is now 38 psi? It's as if the cal is looking for a given AFR (autotune) and be danmed it's going to stay there!!!!! At 100% duty cycle your injectors are open all the way (bad) and are heating like no tomorrow and will cause an injector failure. And a base pressure of 38 psi makes the car hard to start with 3 cranks to start the car.
A Super 60 cal or a re-scaled stock cal for 3 bar and +40 run better IMO. If you can get a reliable one or one without glitches.
It's not about Boost it's about HP to the wheels. You need X amount of fuel (pressure/injector flow/duty cycle) to produce X amount of Power at a given AFR.
As we all know not all turbo's are created equal. Stock T2 versus a GT 35 let's say. As Bad Arse said it about CFM in and thru the motor not a specific boost pressure figure.
89,
You could get away with 92 octane and 20 psi or so with good plugs and stock timing/turbo.
I have had this STG 5 cal in and out of my car for several setups. I had it on a basically stock setup and now what I call a Super Stock setup. The good news is that it has been dependable. And the car feels pretty quick. But it has some oddities if you want a mack daddy tune.
We have done some pulls up to 27 psi on this cal and it WON'T f-ing lean out to save it's life. It continues to increase duty cycle to 100+ range. At 4400 rpm and 25 psi it starts to go into the 90's all the way to 112????? Here is the kicker with a 9.8 to 10.2 afr. I want the ----- to lean out as the base fuel pressure is now 38 psi? It's as if the cal is looking for a given AFR (autotune) and be danmed it's going to stay there!!!!! At 100% duty cycle your injectors are open all the way (bad) and are heating like no tomorrow and will cause an injector failure. And a base pressure of 38 psi makes the car hard to start with 3 cranks to start the car.
A Super 60 cal or a re-scaled stock cal for 3 bar and +40 run better IMO. If you can get a reliable one or one without glitches.
Well,
I took the FP down to 30 psi and the damn thin still was in the 9's. Probably have larger than 52 lb injs, and a pump rewire that are just adding too much fuel no matter what.
After forking with this way too much and getting no where I took the leap and disconnected the boost source to the adj reg and set the fp to 60 psi, no rise at all.
Have settled in at 52 psi of fuel, with no boost 1 to 1, and EUREKA I have decent AFR's in the mid 11's low 12's with alky.
I have a dyno appt @ Cincy Speed this wednesday to tweak the cam, timing, and fuel.
FYI,
Marion
332 hp and 375 ft lbs.
Nice numbers. Was that with or without the alky?332 hp and 375 ft lbs.
Cordes
With Alky. Here is a link to the thread.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25652
I have some problems with my stage 5 cal running super rich just like mario has described. I wonder if it's worth just scrapping the bogus fwdp cal and going back to stock cal. My car pegs wideband readings at richer than 10.0 24/7 and will only lean out (but still be rich) under full boost
Have you called us to discuss it? I mean there may be some simple tuning changes you can make, or worse case you can send it back and we can make changes.
Thanks,
Cindy
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FWD,
I would recommend stop issuing these out with all the fuel to begin with. There have been a million threads about it.
Myself and others have called and you recommend , reducing FP, or sending it back in and wait 4/6 weeks. Low FP on this cal makes for poor starts and erratic afr's.
No need to get upset because I know you have seen the comments many times. Even CSX802/others recently has resorted to using a piggy back to pull the fuel back out. Thats how he got his #'s.
Why not devise and sell a "race cal" if thats what it takes to get a riskier tune from a vendor standpoint to the guys?
FYI,
Marion
I sure haven't found the stage 5 cal very rich before or after I sent it in.
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