loctite and rod bearings...

[ShadowFromHell]

I spun a rod bearing in my 86 NY a few weeks ago, and haven't had a chance to even get started on the new motor. I was was thinking the other day, why not try to install a new bearing on the #3 (spun), but with loctite on the bottom side of the new bearings? maybe that would be enough to keep it from moving for a while? Now I know it wouldn't last forever, but it would get me out of my 10mpg jeep hopefully until I had a new bottom end together. Loctite makes some high temp, high strength stuff and I would try and pick up some that.

BTW the motor still has awesome oil pressure. If its wasn't for the slight knock I would keep driving it. Ive already tried replacing the bearing, and it spun after a few miles. It spun the first time after some lifter issues were causing it to not rev above 4500 or so, and I kept holding it there.....

[Clay]

use loctite bearing mount. Its made for bearings that are slip fit into a bore, and basically glues them in place. It might be enough to get you buy like your talking about.

[ShadowFromHell]

the green stuff? I did alot of googling and was thinking that was the way to go. The heat just has me a little worried. I really dont care about the bottom end, just looking to save some money. Ive got more then a few t1 bottom end's laying around.

[black86glhs]

I say go for it. Whats the worst that happens, you spin the bearing again? I cleaned up the crank and replaced the bearing on my chevy when #7 rod bearing got chewed. It didn't spin, but I replaced it and got another 8-10 months before it went again(if I had polished the crank better, it would have gone longer). Besides, it is so easy to do.

[ShadowFromHell]

how did you polish the crank? It was a little rought, but Ive seen worse stay together. I have already replaced the bearing and it spun shortly after...

[black86glhs]

I used wet/dry sand paper. Started with 220 grit to remove the bearing material. Move to 360 grit and then 600 grit. I used motor oil with it.
Not saying this is the approved method, but it is what I have used. BTW, I only used the 220 grit on the chevy when I did it(reason it started knocking again).
The rod end is the problem, but like you said, you just want it to run for a little while. Yes we know we are talking the "hack" way of doing it, but what the hell. It is not like you are rebuilding it and think this is the correct way to do a rebuild....lol.

[Clay]

the green stuff? I did alot of googling and was thinking that was the way to go. The heat just has me a little worried. I really dont care about the bottom end, just looking to save some money. Ive got more then a few t1 bottom end's laying around.

the stuff we use at work is yellow, but that doesnt mean they haven't changed colors

[black86glhs]

Clay....I have seen both. Depends on the maker. We used to use it when rebuilding pellitizers at the plastics plant. Worked very well in those applications. Some of the pellitizers were well worn at that.

[turbovanman²]

If the crank is damaged, it won't work. A few years ago, local TD'er spat a rod bearing, cranked looked iffy, put a new bearing in, rapped instantly.

[Clay]

yeah, I dont think you could do this if the crank is damaged. Only if the rod surface is damaged because your actually, for all intents and purposes, gluing the rod bearing into the rod when you use bearing mount. but bearing mount wont help you at all if the crank is hosed.

[black86glhs]

That is why we were talking about gently massaging the journal. All you do is get rid of any bearing material that transferred. If the journal is physically damaged(I mean grooves or gouges), the you guys are correct.
Doing what I said to my Chevy may not work on the Mopar, but other than a couple hours maximum, he's not out anything.

[zin]

How about some epoxy? Should take the heat and would be a heck of alot tougher than just about any loctite.

Oooh, if it doesn't work, you can pull a Myth Busters and try using a piece of leather belt in place of the bearing! Always wanted to try that! Just never been that desperate.

Best of luck!

Mike

[bfarroo]

Is the crank standard size now? If so measure it and see where its at if it's just out pick up a oversized bearing (.026) and put that in for a temp repair.

[ShadowFromHell]

I really doubt the crank is down that far. But, I guess tighter is better. The crank acutally did look really good when I tore it apart the last time. Ive thrown bearings in my CSX on a crank that looked much worse, and it didnt knock, just had no oil pressure. I think the problem is with the rod. You could tell is had got hot when it spun. So I guess I should tear it down and see if it spun again? If it spun again, "glue" it and see what happens. If its knocking and the bearing hasnt spun, its not going to work.

Also might run some 20-50 and lucas! haha.

[Ondonti]

Well its obvious either the crank journal is out of round, or the big end of the rod is out of round. Either way, your rod wont hold a bearing. If you glue the bearing in, you will just ruin the crankshaft journal and big end of the rod more. Even if you keep the bearing in one place, the bearing will still get worn and in a few miles, your motor will be knocking like crazy again.

If you had no metal to metal contact, your bearing would not have spun in 3-4 miles.

Now to what I think you actually were suggesting.
Trying to fill the surface of the bearing/crank journal with hardened goop only sounds like a way to guarantee you wont have the proper clearances, and your bearing will soon be dead again.

[black86glhs]

I really doubt the crank is down that far. But, I guess tighter is better. The crank acutally did look really good when I tore it apart the last time. Ive thrown bearings in my CSX on a crank that looked much worse, and it didnt knock, just had no oil pressure. I think the problem is with the rod. You could tell is had got hot when it spun. So I guess I should tear it down and see if it spun again? If it spun again, "glue" it and see what happens. If its knocking and the bearing hasnt spun, its not going to work.

Also might run some 20-50 and lucas! haha.

Exactly...like we said, this isn't a permanent fix, its a hack repair. Your not out anything. If everyone else is correct(and us too), you already have damage. Besides, you have other engines to use if it doesn't work.

[ShadowFromHell]

You have to understand, once this motor comes out of the car, Im pulling the useful parts and scrapping the bottom end. Im not worried about damaging it. I dont care.

Im also not thinking of "filling" anything. I just don't want the bearing to move. Im hopefully going to pull it apart tomorrow and see whats in there...

[black86glhs]

Bingo.

[envyyourethics]

.

Also might run some 20-50 and lucas! haha.

Had a spun bearing in a 2.2 noncb

I threw in a full set of rod bearings, after I polished the crank as said above, Brakekleened everything I could get at, pulled valve cover and cam, lifters, ect cleaned all. sprayed down the oil passages, pulled oil pump and cleaned. And opened up the opening on the pickup tube.

Ran 20w50 and replaced after 1st drive w/ 3 quarts of 20w50 and 2 of lucas.

Ran over 1000miles, then got hit and car was totaled. Had a few 5kshift point runs in, few burnouts,ect.

Bottom end was noisy, but it survived. KILLED the turbo however.