Which intake?

[moparzrule]

I have a sheetmetal intake that I got from a guy off turbo dodge. I ported it, painted it, and opened for a 52mm throttle body. It uses a 1 piece intake fuel rail, but I have another 1 piece rail that I modded for high HP taking out the inner rail and installing a 3/8'' nipple feed.
I want 350 WHP on pump gas and 400 WHP on race gas, at 25-28 and 35 PSI respectively.
I want to know opinions on whether I should run this, or a ported 2 piece intake with 52mm TB. I have the same mod done to a 2 piece fuel rail, so they are both good for high HP.
I know some people don't like that the air goes straight into this sheetmetal intake and hits a wall, but I like the huge plenum it has. Need some opinions.
So I'm posting up a poll, which intake will yield me more power in your opinion.
Here's pics of the sheetmetal, we all know what a ported 2 piece looks like-

[BadAssPerformance]

To answer your question on power, either a ported 2pc or the fancy one in the picture soud be able to meet your goals.

To say which would be better overall? Sheetmetal plenum and velocity stacks on top of a 2pc lower as the runners are better than the 1 pc runners.

[MiniMopar]

If some good porting of the 1pc lower half was done, it seems like the 12 pack plenum would work better assuming the connection from the TB is not going to cause trouble. Maybe a diverter Dynomax Super Turbo style would help.

[turbovanman²]

Is that a 2 piece lower?

[badandy]

I wouldn't risk a modded stock fuel rail to 350 to 400 hp if it were me. I know that several years ago James Reeves kept popping pistons with one. Once he went to an aftermarket style rail he no longer had any issues.

[BadAssPerformance]

Is that a 2 piece lower?

Nope, 2pc lower has round runners, not square.

[MiniMopar]

Looks like a 1pc to me.

[moparzrule]

Yes the lower runners are from a 1 piece intake.

I know a larger plenum on a 2 piece with velocity stacks would be ideal, but I'm just going to run what I have which is either a ported stock 2 piece intake or this sheetmetal. I don't think 400 WHP is out the the question for either piece, but want to know what your guys opinions are about which do you think will make more power.

My fuel rail I plan to have a dual feed inlet, and the inner tube being gone doubles the inner capacity for fuel. The dual feed is so number 4 injector does not get starved which is what I believe the problem Reeves was having IIRC.
Here's a pic (not done obviously)-

[badandy]

My fuel rail I plan to have a dual feed inlet, and the inner tube being gone doubles the inner capacity for fuel. The dual feed is so number 4 injector does not get starved which is what I believe the problem Reeves was having IIRC.
Here's a pic (not done obviously)-

I think you are right with that. Do you feel that it indeed has enough volume to keep a constant pressure at high duty cycles? I would be scared to trust it myself at that power level...simply because it's just alot to gamble for a relatively easy to install fairly low cost item (by comparison to an engine rebuild that is)...but I tend to error on the safe side and spend too much money doing so often times.

[moparzrule]

Well, here's my thoughts. I've heard a stock fuel rail starts to run lean at about 350 WHP. I'm not asking for much more, and I've doubled the inner volume along with taking away the weakest link which is the number 4 fuel starvation.
I'm running a walbro 255hp pump.

[badandy]

Well, here's my thoughts. I've heard a stock fuel rail starts to run lean at about 350 WHP. I'm not asking for much more, and I've doubled the inner volume along with taking away the weakest link which is the number 4 fuel starvation.
I'm running a walbro 255hp pump.

I know on paper the stock fuel rail indeed has the ability to flow enough fuel for 350 hp. It's the harmonics of the injectors opening and closing in batches that would concen me...because I know that to keep the pressure constant (which in turn keeps the fuel flow constant) you need more volume than what you would actually use...because it is the reserve fuel volume that dampens out those harmonics (which is normally done by the screw on damper at the end of the rail) and enables the pressure to be correct.

For example...I know that HP sequential fuel injected applications would need a smaller volume rail above that of the actual fuel requirement as the harmonics (for lack of what the proper term is) would be less because there is only one injector open at a time instead of two...for however many miliseconds...but that in itself keeps that system from needing a damper like a batch fire setup does.

But honestly...I don't know enough about it to get real technical with it...and you might have done your homework and be just fine...just keep all that in mind if you run into issues

[moparzrule]

I check my plugs often

[1FastCSX289]

Is that intake manifold made by "Garret" on TD? If so, I think Reinaldo Maloon was running one (Rattlesnake on this forum, but havent seen him in a while). Last I talked to him he said his manifold made decent power, but it was WAYYYY up top and throttle response was poor. Good for all out drag car, but not for a street machine. Again.....thats IF its the same as the one Reinaldo was running......but it does look exactly like it.

[moparzrule]

Yes it was originally Garret's, I got it off a guy that bought it from him.

This is a 75/25% drag/street car, and I'm building a high RPM 2.2 for it. Expected shift point is in the 7200-7500 RPM range. Not a daily driver at all, just some weekend cruising and terrorizing of mustangs and camaro's

[moparzrule]

I guess I should have listed my setup to help determination. All going into an 88 shadow ES-
89' common block-tbi cast 2.2 crank, stock T2 rods new bushings resized and ARP bolts, Forged Wiseco's.
Ported G head, std intake valves and +1mm exhausts, fresh good valve job, flows well, S60 springs and hardened locks.
Simon's S60 roller cam
Well ported stock exhaust manifold (of course)
TO4B H trim turbo with .63 stage 3 turbine, ATP 3'' V band swingvalve
3'' straight all the way out the back
Large FMIC, 31X12X3 with 2.5'' in/out
underdrive pulley, A/C delete
180 thermostat with 1/16'' hole drilled
ported water pump, LOL
number 4 coolant mod
A555 tranny and TU 4 puck clutch
Unequal axles
SMEC electronics with my own cal

And whatever intake I put on with a 52mm throttle body. Like I said it's a 75% drag car, just a weekend cruiser sometimes. Expected range for good power is 4000-7000+.

[shadow88]

I ended up with some pretty good gains from my modded 1 piece, but it's really what it's like inside that'll make the biggest difference. I'd vote for the modded manifold. When are you dynoing the car?

[moparzrule]

Probably gonna dyno later on in the year, august or september.

But I'm also looking for atleast lower 12's with this setup, perhaps with some weight loss off the car combined with some race gas and 35 PSI some 11's.

[BadAssPerformance]

I know a larger plenum on a 2 piece with velocity stacks would be ideal, but ...

Cool... your question asked which is better tho

[Ondonti]

Just try it.

I highly doubt you will do better with a ported 2 piece.

Also, I am skeptical of using one persons impression of an intake without knowing their full setup/tune or lack thereof. There is a big list of people complaining about some parts on their cars when everything else is not working correctly at the same time. I guess its easy to blame 1 part but you will never fix your car then.

There doesnt look to be enough done to that manifold to give it poor low RPM response. Thats just crazy talk to say that adding a larger plenum with little else done makes a motor unstreetable.

Especially considering the limitations of the stockish lower and your intake ports.
The TB isnt very big, there is nothing to worry about.

I love my big intake with 65mm ford TB and would love a 75mm but that might make the drivability horrible.
I use a progressive throttle cable cam (just a stocker placed strangly) to make the larger TB drive like a smaller tb.

[1FastCSX289]

Just try it.

I highly doubt you will do better with a ported 2 piece.

Also, I am skeptical of using one persons impression of an intake without knowing their full setup/tune or lack thereof. There is a big list of people complaining about some parts on their cars when everything else is not working correctly at the same time. I guess its easy to blame 1 part but you will never fix your car then.

There doesnt look to be enough done to that manifold to give it poor low RPM response. Thats just crazy talk to say that adding a larger plenum with little else done makes a motor unstreetable.

Especially considering the limitations of the stockish lower and your intake ports.
The TB isnt very big, there is nothing to worry about.

I love my big intake with 65mm ford TB and would love a 75mm but that might make the drivability horrible.
I use a progressive throttle cable cam (just a stocker placed strangly) to make the larger TB drive like a smaller tb.

All I can tell you is what Rattlesnake told me. I bought this intake frpm him and he replaced it with Garret's intake.....he told me that it moved the powerband up and made the car less streetable, but overall power was better. I went from a 52mm to a 58mm on mine and did notice a difference....track times improved slightly.