What radiators will fit my CSX?

[Jackrabbit]

I need a new radiator and I'm wondering if anyone knows what all will fit before I hit the junkyard for a replacement.
It's an 87 CSX.
Also, any aftermarket recomendations are also welcome.

Thanks for any help!
-Wade

[iTurbo]

I used to have an '89 Shadow ES that I intercooled using a radiator/intercooler assembly from a Shelby Lancer. The SL uses the same rad/ic as the TII G-bodies. It wasn't a direct bolt in because of the different mounts, but it was pretty easy to make it work.

Here is a picture of what I did to the passenger side upper radiator mount....you may not want to do this on a #d car though. I bent the sheet metal mount upwards and used a piece of welding stock with a couple holes drilled into it for the rubber 'foot' to sit in.



The driver side I didn't bother doing anything to the mount because it was held in place well enough by the battery.



For the lower mounts, IIRC the passenger side rubber foot was already in the right spot and went right in. For the driver's side I used another piece of welding stock to reposition the hole for the rubber foot. I don't have a picture of the one I did on the Shadow, but here is one I made for my SL that was using an Omni radiator/NPR intercooler for a while.



I admit it's not the prettiest but it was cheap and worked great for a long time until the car was totalled.

[MiniMopar]

The Daytona assembly will fit too, but requires similar bracketry. I just had mine recored. Not cheap, but works better than new. Frankly I'm surprised one of the vendors doesn't offer custom aluminum rads setup to drop in by now. Might even be cheaper than a recore.

[BadAssPerformance]

Recore is the best cheapest way to keep it looking stock. Recore costs about ~$150... Custom aluminum radiators ~$400.

[Jackrabbit]

The problem is the rad in the car now has this goofy nipple to nowhere on the driver side end tank. There's a cap on it with a hose clamp, but the cap is about to bust.
This is a RallyX car, working towards being a stage rally car... so I'd rather not have band aids on critical systems.

I could just replece the cap every season, but I'd rather have the piece of mind of a solid cooling system.

So, in short, a recore is not going to help.

Thanks for the reponses thus far!
-Wade

[BadAssPerformance]

Did I hear Nipple?

Where is this nipple, on the waterneck? like to go to the overflow bottle?

Oh, its a race car, not a stocker... so...

Summit Racing makes cheap aluminum ones but they are too tall to package w/o mods... A custom Fluidyne unit like I got is over $400.

[Jackrabbit]

No the nipple is about half way down the end tank. Let me see, I think I have a pic of it on my site...
Anyway, it's about the size of penny I guess. Like a heater core or tranny cooler feed maybe?

[Jackrabbit]

Here we go. This is a pic from when I pulled the motor a few years ago.
This is how it was patched when I bought the car. I replaced the hose/bolt/RTV/clamp assembly with a small cap. But it's not holding up to the heat and pressure, and starting to crack.

[BadAssPerformance]

Just looks like a trans cooler line.

[Captain Chaos]

Just looks like a trans cooler line.

My first thought, but the second one isn't eveident in the pic.

If you want piece of mind, recore would be your best bet, then have the hole braised close.

[MiniMopar]

That's different. A goofy L-body thing? Don't think mine has one.

[envyyourethics]

Ebay a Aluminum Aftermarket Rad for a 92-95 Civic. They can be had for under $100

Easy swap into a Pbody, But does require you to figure out your own hose routing, but Id say a 1.5hr job at the most.

[Turbulence]

Ebay a Aluminum Aftermarket Rad for a 92-95 Civic. They can be had for under $100

Easy swap into a Pbody, But does require you to figure out your own hose routing, but Id say a 1.5hr job at the most.

What's the quality like and how well does it cool?

Martin
89 Horizon
90 Sundance