All,
I'm looking for a Daytona T Top drivers side door. White is preferred but not a deal killer. The car in question is an 89 model but I sure that other years will work as well. The straighter the betterDoes not need to have the interior panel.
I'm in the Cincy Oh area.
Thanks,
Marion
Admin please move to the Wanted Section my Bad.
What happened to the old door Marion?
I got two sets. PM me.
Brudda,Originally Posted by BIGBRUDDA
The latching mechanism on the drivers side does not like the cold and the door sometimes won't shut and latch. I looked at it and it appears to have been repaired as there are rivets holding it in place. I tried douching it with WD-40 but it doesn't help only until it gets above freezing. I figured that it was only going to get better with a door swap. Since it's Aarons car now I don't want him to hassle with it. Especially first thing in the morning when we are all busting out the door to go to work and school.
Got any other ideas?
BTW do you have any tools that I can cut out some rear qtrs with? Wizz Wheel, Oxy cutter etc?
Marion
Mario, i wouldn't replace the door if you don't have too. What i would do is go to a jy and find a door latch assembly...also, get a good (non bent) door handle. I have the same problem with both of my daytona shelbys. What i do it take it out, let it sit in degreaser all night, then wash it down, then spray and bunch of white lithuim grease in there. I also, fixed my door handle as the cast peice bent just a little where people wont relize it, it just flexes when you try to open the door and wont open, then people will think...hey what if i bend the rod...well yea, it will work..only for a while until the door handle cast bends some more..then your in the same boat.Beleive me, i've takin out that damn handle so many times...probally over 10..i think i finally figured it out... Well i fixed that along with cleaning up the latch, the door closes like new. Havn't had a problem with it since. I should write up a How to cause it seems everyone has this problem.
Last winter was a bare...it would always freeze up on me...i started bringing a can of de-icer and sprayed it up in there...waiting a minute or so and it was fine....
Damn doors.
Thats the latch mechanism& striker bolt.
Trick is to find an 80s-90s mopar 4 door( G,H,J,K,P body type) and remove the seldom used drivers side rear door latch. I'll look . I may have some extras.
Or hit Pull-n-pay.( at least 3 there as of11/1) They sometimes require a #30 star bit for removal. Carefull when disconnecting the linkage.Don't want to bend any trip arms.
In the mean time the deal is to NOT keep jerking on the handle. That bends stuff.
Cheap and easy way to cut panels is a 4in anglegrinder($15) & cutoff wheel($2/ea)at harborfreight.
Hey Budda, Have you tried getting a new style latch assembly and making it fit? Like from a 95 neon or somethin?
Guys
Thanks a lot for the replies.
The door will not close when it is cold is the issue. The latch/catch won't go over the striker. The door just won't close. The door also has a very tired hinge assy that needs rebuilt so I can maybe do both at the same time. So it will have to come off some time.
The latch assy looks like it was riveted on from another repair attempt. So my initial impression that it is toast.
So I thought that a good door that was redone and just swap em out.
We shall see. Tim I got your PM
Marion
You can cut down any Daytona door. That's what C&C did when they did the T-Tops.
Huh.....i can't see that heavy of a door not closing. I've seen welds ripped off from the body when they tried to close the door..
So, let me make sure i am on the same page. Your telling me the door doesn't even reach the striker? Like something is binding it up? Or does it shut, just not latch over the the striker?
As for doing it at the same time is good, if you take the door off and have access to a mig welder, i would weld the hinge alittle better then the factory did it. Make it solid.
Any how, good luck with it. I hate working with these doors.
No, not yet. I have a supply of latches and locks from cars we've parted.And
I'm still findin NewYorkers, Shadows, and LeBos at the yard.
My intent was to someday pull a latch apart to see if I could replicate the worn pieces. Usually that plastic coated fork, and strike plate.Droopy hinges are the big culprit.
I believe Marios problem is fixable. I had that car for 4 years before him.It's about due for hinge pins and striker bolt.
I remember that door. Apparently C&C had a little problem with it. The rivets we're apparently a factory fix for a crack thru the latch panel.
Personally I'd like to take a buggy whip to the saw guyz from C&C. Maybe the "Engineer" in charge too.
The latch remains in an "up" position and will not release to catch on the striker. If I recall exactly.
Pry the plastic hook down while tripping the latch from inside handle. The Guide plates and the plastic get worn and keep the hook from moving easily.
I don't have a good 1 marion. Looks like Pull-n-Pay is the best alternative.
There's a couple of 94 Shadows / Sundances in the first 2 Chrysler aisles. Check them first. Then the New Yorkers in the back row.
Bigbrudda,
I have a set of non T Top doors in the shed. I can maybe pick out the latch assy from them. As long as the current door on the car is not too hosed up with the rivets.
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