solid motor mounts

[jrye68]

has anyone ran solid motor mounts?was there a bunch of vibrations?

[turbovanman²]

No but there would be serious vibrations and you'd have to build custom motor mount brackets to stop them from tearing apart. Why go solid? the PB and MP units work just fine,

[BadAssPerformance]

I've run solid motor mounts for years w/o issue. With a welded front (radiator support) and stock or MP rubber side mounts and stock trans shock, the vibration is not much worse than stock.

If you care a lot about vibration, keep everything stock

If you care a lot about vibration, but will sacrifice a little because you want to reduce the motor from moving around during launches, use one of Johnny's PolyBushing front mount inserts and leave the sides rubber. This will eliminate maybe 60-80% of motor movement?

If you want to make the motor not move at all during launches, weld up the front mount and use MP passender side mount, this will eliminate 95%-100% of motor movement... to get 100% in a stick car you should also replace the rear trans dogbone/shock with a solid member.

If you plan to roadrace and/or AutoX then the passenger and drivers side want to be polyurethane too.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I replace the bobble strut with a cheap $10 semi solid (i.e. poly at one end metal to metal on the other) setup, Put in an MP side mount and Johnny's PB front mount with the hole filled and drilled in the right location. That's for a 5spd. My auto has an MP front, PB side and a new tranny mount with a block of wood in the gap to keep it from sagging.

[jrye68]

a little vibs is ok.my plan was to weld up all mounts besides tranny mount should i not do passanger side?i just like the solid feel of solid mounts.

[jrye68]

glhnslht2 what do u mean by drilled in right spot?

[BadAssPerformance]

a little vibs is ok.my plan was to weld up all mounts besides tranny mount should i not do passanger side?i just like the solid feel of solid mounts.

Welding up all will vibrate like hell. Only need to weld the front one that goes to the radiator core support. Leaving the sides rubber will damp a lot of the vibrations still. The side ones only need to be stiffer for race car cornering performance.

[jrye68]

thanks

[BadAssPerformance]

Here are a couple pics...

[jrye68]

that was the way i was thinking to do it.im glad i asked cause i was about to weld them up last nite and i would have done all of them.how long should i make my bobble strut?it was always bottomed out when a stand still so should i make it that length or should i preload it a bit

[BadAssPerformance]

For the front, it shows in the pics but after you press out the square steel/ rubber insert on the stock mount, take the tube out of it (or make one the sam eside) and put it in in the middle of the square.

Put this mount in and you probably wont need to change the rear strut. I guess what I am saying is that I would try it forst before touching the rear.

What kinda trans mount? L body or A525 with the dogbone or A525/A555/A568 with the shock? Either way try it first.

If you want to change the rear, a threaded rod is the best so you can change the angle the engine sits at to improve axle angle. Sperical rod end on the bottom and threaded rod thru the hole on the newer style transaxles.

[jrye68]

i got a a555 in a daytona.i went a got some 3/4"thick thread all and i was going to cut the bottom of strut off and weld thread all to that then weld the top of strut rod to another piece of thread all and connect them together with a 6" adj. nut

[jrye68]

nice car by the way,what rims are those?

[BadAssPerformance]

I would definitely try the front only first unless you plan to drag race a ton on slicks.

Thanks, Daytona's Rule! The wheels in my sig pic are stock SRT-4 wheels. I run the slicks/skinnies on Bogarts

[GLHNSLHT2]

obviously not a daily driver. JT have you started to crack the kframe tab off yet? I've got a kmember where I was running my semi solid setup that started to crack the tab off. I daily drive my 5spd and drive the snot out of it. I tried adding Johnny's PB side mount and the mirror would buzz so bad at idle and freeway speeds you couldn't see behind you.

With the front mounts, the hole is supposed to be offset and the motor is supposed to sit at a 13 degree angle. If you center the hole you make the motor rock back which hurts axle alignment, and oil drain back. The Imsa teams rocked the motor fwd from 13 to 6 degrees. This also helps the roll center for handling too.

[Johnny]

Just to remind you, I also have a "HARD" poly front mount that is as good as solid. I made them for guys that want to race with no engine flex.

Johnny

[Speedeuphoria]

obviously not a daily driver. JT have you started to crack the kframe tab off yet? I've got a kmember where I was running my semi solid setup that started to crack the tab off.

I would think that with the solid front mount there would not be as much pressure on the Tab on the k-frame.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Maybe, i had a PB bushing in the front which is pretty firm though.

[GLHNSLHT2]

JT I like the SRT4 rims but I like the bogarts better

[BadAssPerformance]

obviously not a daily driver. JT have you started to crack the kframe tab off yet? I've got a kmember where I was running my semi solid setup that started to crack the tab off. I daily drive my 5spd and drive the snot out of it. I tried adding Johnny's PB side mount and the mirror would buzz so bad at idle and freeway speeds you couldn't see behind you.

With the front mounts, the hole is supposed to be offset and the motor is supposed to sit at a 13 degree angle. If you center the hole you make the motor rock back which hurts axle alignment, and oil drain back. The Imsa teams rocked the motor fwd from 13 to 6 degrees. This also helps the roll center for handling too.

I have daily driven solid front mounts in various cars for over 10 years w/o issue. The Z is the only one where I have a the solid rear too. No damage to the K frame or radiator core support. Keeping it rigid is less impact from momemtum on launch when the motor slams around until the soft stock mounts go solid. Kind of like loosening a bolt using a wrench snugged up before you pull on it (solid mount) vs. an impact gun (stock mount).

I made a solid passenger side mount and it channelled vibrations like hell so I put the MP one back in. I dont road race or AutoX so I did not see any benefit.

I thought the IMSA cars moved the motor forward not only to lower the CG but also for more manifold clearance too? My 2.4L is rotated forward for the later reason.

JT I like the SRT4 rims but I like the bogarts better

Thanks, and I agree, just wish the Bogarts were streetable