ok i don't know wtf happened in amateur of a day but heres the story. my exhaust fell off wenesday so i put it on ramps and fixed it. while i was working on the car i added my boost gauge and my a/f gauge. now my vac is only around 15in and its over heating. now the over heating thing i don't get cause with the heater on its blowing ice cold + the only code i got is a 12. wtf gives here
Well the vacuum for the boost gauge sounds normal, I think mine is around 15-20. But maybe you disconnected the vacuum line going to the control valve for the heater? My Charger has a 4 way that is controlled by vacuum. Not sure why the car is overheating though.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
The TIII cars never came with a heater control valve. Sounds like you need to have the heater core flushed out. Also check to make sure the radiator fan is coming on and off like it should.
ok what i don't get is how could this of happened in a matter of 12 hours? and when the temp gauge climes its like a rocket it will go from cold to hot in around 30 sec.
Check your coolant level. Sounds like you got some air to bleed out of there!
could it be the water pump??
ok so i just got back from taking the car for a ride of about 30 miles. no problemsnow the temp gauge is all over the place but its under half. I'm thinking now its the thermostat. any thought?
Is your car a 5 speed? My Daytona was the same on the gauge. Found out the wire going to the temp sensor was loose. The cables for the shifter are also right next to it, so it was bumping it every now and then. Maybe check that and confirm that isn't loose.Originally Posted by Bardo
ok so i just got back from taking the car for a ride of about 30 miles. no problems
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Did you check this?
Usually when the gauge is going hot then cold real fast then hot etc. it is because there is air in the system. Check the radiator, if it is low take out the sensor in the water neck and fill the system up and bleed it out of the sensor hole. Of course when you're suddenly low on coolant there is usually a bigger problem...
There is an air bubble in the system.
It the coolant is full, try replacing the thermostat with a new one and drill the 1/16" bleed hole. If after that it still does it, most likely the head gasket is gone-the mad coolant swings indicate this as the air is pushined into the cooling system,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
anyone want to buy this thing off of me. i have this t3 can and every time something little like this happens (the over heating) i think the worst. HG, water pump, thermostat. i never even thought coolant. i want my 8v back
No you don't,anyone want to buy this thing off of me. i have this t3 can and every time something little like this happens (the over heating) i think the worst. HG, water pump, thermostat. i never even thought coolant. i want my 8v back
Dude, this can happen to an 8 valve, big whoop, lol!
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
you have the opposite opinion as me (look at my title, lol) 16 valves are way more fun!
just check the fluid, top it off, let it run with the heater on full blast for about 5 min to clear any and all air bubbles. see what happens then. check everywhere for leaks, rad, hoses, turbo lines.
then,
if you still dont have heat, make sure the vaccum line is hooked up that comes though the fire wall, if it is, flush the heater core, undo both heater hoses and hold a garden hose to one end for a min, switch back and forth to work anything out and you should be good.
ok so i got this taken care of and you guys were kind of right. i checked the coolant in the rad and it was low so i toped it off. car was fine for about 15 min. popped the rad again and it was low. it wasn't leaking so i had no idea where it was going. took it to a chapter meet and some of the guys were looking at it and asked about the coolant bottle. the top was off just a little bit. opened it up and the over flow bottle was filled. i guess what was happening was that the car would pressurize and dump extra coolant into the overflow bottle (like it should) but being that the cap wasn't on all the way the bottle couldn't pressurize enough to send the coolant back in to the rad when needed
now get out there and kill a honda, champ!
+1^^^^ Run the car, Loosten the coolant temp sense sensor. Let the ait go out of it. Fill while the car is running. Just had this. sensor would spike... Hoses bone cold...
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
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