4 cylinder auto to manual swap

[overlordsshadow]

Hi all,

I've submitted this article to the Knowledge Center. Just curious if anyone has anything they would like to add/correct or any tips and tricks.

Parts:
Clutch and brake pedal from standard car
Flywheel
Clutch and pressure plate
Shifter cables
Clutch cable
Clutch cable bracket
Shifter
Horseshoe clips to attach shifter cables to trans
3 litres 5w-30 regular motor oil

Swap:

Uninstall Automatic Trans
1. Get car on jack stands
2. Take off front wheels
3. Unbolt and tie up the brake callipers, remove brake rotor
4. Remove axle cotter pin and unbolt axle
5. Unbolt steering knuckle from strut assembly
6. Unbolt and take off tie-rod ends
7. Pry down on control arm to free the axles
8. Remove axles (Some vehicles, mainly Turbo’d, you’ll need to unbolt the passenger side axle from the back of the engine block.
9. Remove starter
10. Disconnect automatic shifter cable on the transmission and throttle body
11. Disconnect speed/distance sensor, reverse lights, and convert lockup (if equipped) from the transmission
12. Support engine from top or bottom
13. Loosen transmission bolts
14. Support transmission from bottom
15. Remove transmission bolts
16. Unbolt flexplate
17. Unbolt and remove front and transmission motor mounts
18. Remove transmission from engine bay

Install 5 speed:
1. Install flywheel on crankshaft
2. Align and install clutch and pressure plate on flywheel
3. Place transmission on jack and roll into place
4. Jack into place and maneuver transmission shaft into clutch (optionally install your bell housing covers at this time.
5. Bolt transmission to engine and install all motor and transmission mounts
6. Spin crankshaft to make sure there is no binding on the transmission and clutch
7. Fab and install bracket on K-frame to bolt bobble-strut to
8. Install starter
9. Connect shifter cables and install horseshoe clips
10. Install axles into transmission
11. Install axles into steering knuckles
12. Bolt steering knuckles to strut assemblies
13. Connect tierods
14. Bolt axles in and passenger side wheel on
15. Add oil to transmission until it is up to the plug hole.
16. Spin tires/axles, and try to engage the transmission (work the oil through)
17. Add more oil as needed
18. Put on drivers side wheel
19. Lower vehicle


Inside:
1. Remove shifter
2. Remove drivers seat
3. Remove center console
4. Take automatic shifter cable out
5. Remove ignition lockout switch and cable
6. Remove brake pedal
7. Drill holes for shifter cables
8. Install new shifter
9. Feed new cables
10. Drill clutch cable hole
11. Feed clutch cable
12. Install pedals
13. Fab and mount clutch stop bracket
14. Connect clutch cable
15. Install drivers seat
16. Set shift pattern
17. Install center console

Test drive

[Turbodave]

Looks like a good overview.

One thing I noticed is the recommendation on how to remove the axles.
I find it is a lot easier to unbolt the outer brackets for the sway bar, pivot it out of the way and remove the lower ball joint bolt. Then you can pivot the control arm down with a prybar.

This way there is no messing with the brakes, tie rod ends or alignment settings.

[overlordsshadow]

Well wouldn't you really only be risking the toe in and out by removing the strut? Tierod adjustment shouldn't be needed.

[Shelbydaytona91]

Looks like a good overview.

One thing I noticed is the recommendation on how to remove the axles.
I find it is a lot easier to unbolt the outer brackets for the sway bar, pivot it out of the way and remove the lower ball joint bolt. Then you can pivot the control arm down with a prybar.

This way there is no messing with the brakes, tie rod ends or alignment settings.

He has a point, I just had to swap out trannys and swinging the sway bar down is much less time consuming at the least, though that method would probably make it more safe for the axles as you kinda have to bend them to get them in the wheel hub.

[Turbodave]

Well wouldn't you really only be risking the toe in and out by removing the strut? Tierod adjustment shouldn't be needed.

Removing the strut through bolts will affect your camber settings.

Toe is adjusted with the tie-rods, the toe setting shouldn't change (it may change a very small amount with a camber adjustment), but you do risk ruining the boots on the tie rods ends when you pull them.

[Turbo_Rampage]

Looks like a good overview.

One thing I noticed is the recommendation on how to remove the axles.
I find it is a lot easier to unbolt the outer brackets for the sway bar, pivot it out of the way and remove the lower ball joint bolt. Then you can pivot the control arm down with a prybar.

This way there is no messing with the brakes, tie rod ends or alignment settings.

I agree with this as well, because i had to remove an axle in my 89' Daytona a couple days ago and i did it the way you described... this will only work with the dual pivot control arms though, because i can't use this method on my Rampage, because it has the rear strut rod bushing (don't know the proper name for it) which prevents the control arm from swinging down.

[Turbodave]

I agree with this as well, because i had to remove an axle in my 89' Daytona a couple days ago and i did it the way you described... this will only work with the dual pivot control arms though, because i can't use this method on my Rampage, because it has the rear strut rod bushing (don't know the proper name for it) which prevents the control arm from swinging down.

I use that method on my L-body's with the stub struts and haven't had any problems. I do use a big prybar for leverage though.

[raccoon]

I use that method on my L-body's with the stub struts and haven't had any problems. I do use a big prybar for leverage though.

yup, I leave the sway bar in place and just use a huge bar to push it down.

[A.J.]

I also undo the swaybar and undo the ball joints to get axles in and out.

Also I've done an A/T to M/T swap in an '89 Daytona and I didn't have to drill an additional hole for the shifter cables. I was able to fit them both through the A/T shifter cable hole.

Also you forget about bypassing the neutral safety switch. If you don't the car wont start. All I did was run a jumper wire across the terminals. It's not the safest way to do it because you'll be able to start the car in gear. I was thinking of wiring it up to the brake light switch so you'd have to step on the brake to start the car but never got around to it and sold the car.

A.J.

[A.J.]

And you forgot reverse lights. That's an easy one. You can wire it up using the neutral safety/reverse plug from the A/T and wire it up to the reverse light switch on top of the M/T. That one I did do.

A.J.