Car dies while cruising?

[Shelbydaytona91]

I'm having this strange issue where my car will start to die while cruising. Sometimes I can floor it and my car will act like it is retarded 40* then finally pick itself back up. If I slap the car into neutral it dies but I can turn it back on while cruising. I'm getting codes 12, 45, 54, and 55. # 54 stands out here: No sync pickup signal during engine rotation from Allpar. Does this sound like a HEP issue or is it something else? My HEP is pretty new, not even a year old, but it is the cheapest one I could afford from Autostoned

[MiniMopar]

Autostoned? You got screwed I'm afraid. Avoid most aftermarket HEPs. They almost all suck. I've tried them and CarQuest. The CQ one lasted 1 day. It failed on my way to work on the 2nd day. Luckily I always keep a spare with me. I had decent luck with NAPA (6 years and still going in the CSX) and I've been driving on one from Lugert for over a year now. Otherwise, buy Mopar.

[Shelbydaytona91]

Thanks for the quick response. I figured they were crap I'm surprised it lasted this long. So does the problem sound likes its the HEP going out?

[MiniMopar]

The code 54 is very likely the reason for the sudden loss of power. Does the issue happen randomly, or does it happen more often once the engine is hot? The cheap ones seem to suffer from thermal issues. If it is random, it could be a wiring issue interrupting the signal.

Might be worth resetting the computer to clear the codes and try again. If the 54 shows up again, that's probably the cause. The Check Engine light should come on during this time as well.

[Shelbydaytona91]

It came on while it was hot probably 80% of the time. My car died 5 times and finally wouldn't start again in the middle of no where so I went and got the Napa one I had ordered and put it in. It was really strange because I started the car up and it idled for two seconds then died. I started it again and it idled for 6 seconds then died. I drove it home and the next time I drove it, it died once more but hasn't died since Think this is the car just getting used to the new HEP or do I need to take it back to Napa and get a new one?

[JDAWG]

Is a Napa one really that much cheaper than a Mopar one?

[nBALLS]

Get a Mopar HEP, even if it's a used one. I remember one time a friend of mine with a Turbo minivan called me and said he swapped out his HEP for a new one from NAPA, just because he wanted a new one(he's anal like that, lol), and almost immediately he had problems with his van dying just like yours, and I think that it left him stranded too.

[Shelbydaytona91]

Is a Napa one really that much cheaper than a Mopar one?

It's about $30 cheaper, the price doesn't really matter except for the fact that I just DON'T have the extra $30 to spend on it. Looks like I don't have a choice though, this thing is pissing me off. It died at least 10 times today. It's pretty sad no one car make a stupid little sensor right. Now what happens if the Mopar unit gives me the same problems?

[nBALLS]

It's about $30 cheaper, the price doesn't really matter except for the fact that I just DON'T have the extra $30 to spend on it. Looks like I don't have a choice though, this thing is pissing me off. It died at least 10 times today. It's pretty sad no one car make a stupid little sensor right. Now what happens if the Mopar unit gives me the same problems?

Get a used Mopar one, junkyard maybe, or borrow one form a known good running car, to make sure that is your problem.

[mwrenn]

Another thing that might be totally unrelated, but check your fuel pressure, pump wire attachment, fuel filter etc...

[MiniMopar]

Reset the computer and see if the 54 is coming back. While I don't have any faith in aftermarket HEPs, it would be unusual for two sensors to both fail with a code 54. There are two halves to the sensor and the code 54 is referring to the fuel injector sync half. I would say that it is the more rare failure of the two. the other failure would be a code 11 not clearing, but that code is cleared as soon as the ECU sees any pulse from the ignition reference half of the HEP. Since it does start, then the ECU is getting something.

But yes, find a known good sensor or take both of yours to a friend with a TM and test them in their car.

[Turbodave]

The dealer or the junkyard are the only places I buy mine, if your in the yard look for the pentastar molded onto it, that's how you know it's a factory one.

[Shelbydaytona91]

ok well I got the Mopar HEP, just because even if it isn't the problem I sitll need one. So I try to start the car and nothing. I hooked it up to some jumpers because I figered the battery was dead (got stranded had blinkers on waiting for tow truck). After about 5 10 second cranks it started starting so I gave it gas and it took a couple seconds but there was a huge cloud of smoke then the car started idling, although it was pretty lumpy. I go to take the jumper cable of the positive cable of the battery and the car dies. What could this be now?? What are those three tiny wires that attach to the driver side of the alternator by the way? I remember having issues with those before, could they cause this?

[nBALLS]

One of them is the alternator power wire, and the other two are alternator field wires. If the car died when you pulled the jumper cable off, the alternator is not charging, and it could be caused by faulty wiring. Although, if the wiring checks out, and you have an ND alternator, try tapping it(the top) with a blunt object while running, a hammer, tire iron, or pry bar would work, and it may start charging. The alt. went bad on my '90 Daytona C/S VNT, and I did that for about a week until I got around to changing it.

[Shelbydaytona91]

I'll check the wiring tomorrow. I had it die randomly a while back and I checked the codes and something alternator came up, so I looked around and one of those little wires was loose. No codes this time though The weird thing is I didn't seem to have a charge problem even with the car dying, the lights, radio, everything seemed fine but the engine.

[MiniMopar]

Could also be corroded battery terminals. Give those a good cleaning and charge that battery if it is drained. Your alternator will thank you.

[Shelbydaytona91]

Well I did some more testing and I am starting to wonder if it really is charge related or not. I hooked the car up to a set of jumper cables and the car seems to start 90% of the time, the problem is it won't idle more than 10 seconds. It just turns itself off, jumper cables or not. The first time I took the cables off it must have been a coincidence because it dies either way. I can keep the car running if I rev it up but it dies right after I let off. The idle is it's normal 2,000 RPM's im plagued with from most likely a intake manifold gasket leak. The battery terminals don't have any corrosion or acid buildup but I'll clean them as a precaution. The computer isn't throwing any codes, just 12 and 55. Voltmeter seems normal as well, and the cables going to the alt seem fine too. I tried tapping the alternator with no difference either. Any ideas?

[MiniMopar]

OK, yeah I would look into that vacuum leak. These cars control idle with spark scatter and some fueling tweaks as well as the AIS and it's been my experience while tweaking with cals that it is easy to confuse the idle control code. If the leak were such that the MAP sensor reading was wrong, it could cause the problem you are seeing. You might throw a meter on the TPS output and make sure the output is clean throughout the throttle plate's range of motion.

[Shelbydaytona91]

Well I have had the leak for about a year now, I've tried everything from adjusting the idle screw, redoing every vacuum line, and reset the AIS, all with no luck. That leaves me down the thinking it is the intake manifold gasket, I don't know what else it could be. I would think it was the AIS but that seems to be working fine the idle adjust itself from anywhere in 1900-3000 from the AIS as far as I can tell. I haven't been able to remove the AIS to clean it but I have sprayed plenty of throttle body cleaner in the AIS port. Either way the leak hasn't given me any issues since I've had it. Could the ignition switch be a source of the problem possibly?

[MiniMopar]

Cover the inlet of the TB with a plank of wood or your hand if you dare. If you can't kill it, then the leak is not the AIS valve (could be the gasket I suppose).