AHHH! Got ya. I thought it would retard the timing as long as you were staging and limiter trigger set. Thank you for clearing that up Rob.Originally Posted by ShelGame
I wondered it the spark cut option in the configuration worked.
AHHH! Got ya. I thought it would retard the timing as long as you were staging and limiter trigger set. Thank you for clearing that up Rob.
I wondered it the spark cut option in the configuration worked.
The code is enabled, but it doesn't work. Feel free to try it...AHHH! Got ya. I thought it would retard the timing as long as you were staging and limiter trigger set. Thank you for clearing that up Rob.
I wondered it the spark cut option in the configuration worked.
Rob,
What does "Staging Limiter sw polarity" do?
Some of the switches are 'normally open' and some are 'normally closed'. So, if the switch you are using actives the 2-step (or switchable boost for that matter - there's a similar flag for it) opposite of what you think it should - ie, the 2 step is on when the switch is off - then try the polarity switch...
Thanks again Rob.
Had an idea for a new option over the weekend. Computer-controlled BOV. Here's my thought - use the purge solenoid to control the vac/boost to the BOV. Normally, a BOV sees boost on the 'pipe' side and vacuum on the 'nipple' side, right? This makes re-seating the BOV difficult becuase the flow from the turbo tends to keep it open. But, if you plumbed it through a solenoid so that when it's de-energized the 'nipple' sees boost, and then sees vacuum when energized, it could be controlled and when switched closed, could be re-seated faster that the simple mechanical connection by putting boost on both sides of the plunger. Plus, you can use some logic as to when the BOV opens/closes. Could be very helpfull for road racing/autocrossing. Thoughts?
The BOV does see boost on both sides, then vacuum on the nipple when you shut the throttle plate, then boost when your throttle plate opens back up and you start building boost again. I'm confused by what you are saying?
SRT-4's do have a solenoid on there BOV's though...
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Yeah, I guess that's true. But, I was thinking more along the lines of 1 hose going to the TB, the other going right to the turbo. Should be boost there much sooner than at the TB - especially if you have any kind of IC.
The cals for the Mexican 2.5 T2 cars also had a solenoid on the BOV. The code for it is very complicated, though. I haven't really gone through it to see what all it's doing.
Idk about it's benefits for racing applications but I can think of 1 place where this would be helpful: for people with weak BOV. If you used the boost psi from the turbo outlet, you'd have a greater psi than the pressure just before the tb due to the drop across the I/c which could help stop leaks under pressure.
How would you decide activate the solenoid though? When you saw a large enough - transient on the tps?
I had a similar idea once. I was thinking it would be cool to put a solenoid inline with the BOV line. Whenever you got detonation it would vent boost away from the nipple on the BOV for a period of time, which would allow the BOV to open and reduce boost instantly. Kind of like a safety, it could probably be tied into the CEL on Knock routine.
OK, found an issue with anti-lag. It's coming on too early. Apparently, the code that sets the WOT flag sets it at a much smaller thorttle openeing than I thought. So, sometimes, anti-lag becomes active when at moderate throttle, but still in vacuum. This can cause unstable combustion. Not really a misfire, more like a waver. So, I'm going to make an update to the anti-lag code to also check for MAP above a certain threshold. This should help. I'll test the update tomorrow in my van. If it works, I'll post the update. So, if you've been having trouble with a little waver or minor misfire at moderate throttle, I'd turn off anti-lag or at least turn down the max until I get the update posted.
OK, found another issue with the way I was enabling the Charge Temp sensor on the 2.5 cars. If you didn't have it enabled, it would cause you to run richer than expected (full rich end of the CTS fuel table). I fixed that, and the anti-lag issue I posted about above. I'll get those bundled up and posted tonight. Along with new shift light code that has been tested working. Works nicely, too
06/04/10 - V16.4 Now Posted - Updated the shift light routine; tested as working! It's actually pretty decent, too. I'm working on a way to make the shift light set point user-adjustable rather than a calibration value. Updated the anti-lag routine to eliminate the possibility of too much retard when in vacuum. Updated the Charge Temp Sensor code - there was a problem if you were NOT running the sensor that would cause the enrichment table to use the max enrichment (rather than 0 enrichment). This caused the cal to be very rich under most circumstances. There was no problem if you had the sensor installed and running.
I just downloaded the Turbonator V16 and it doesn't have the batch file in it. How do I get it so I can make the cal files needed to edit for my tune?
You don't need it anymore. Just use MP Tuner to edit/compile the asm into a binary...
I guess if there's enough demand, I can make a batch file to assemble these with...
Okay. I've been trying to to figure out MPTuner and can't seem to figure out how to open the .asm files.... I knew my way around D-Cal and CHeM pretty well but its been a while.
Open MPTuner.
Programs
Tune
File ---> load cal file.
Now pick the one that best fits your car.
once that is loaded go to Scaling
scale for your injectors
scale for your injectors
now save the Cal file. Use whatever name you normally use.
Then click on Miscellaneous
Run Compiler
select the ASM.
Select your cal file .V16, whatever you just named it.
it will build all your files and make you a bin. to make changes just edit that .V16 file you saved.
2022 Viper runs 9s
Staging limiter > Anyone using it with the latest build? Does it work still? I'm trying to figure out how to do a spark-cut rev limiter and I can even seem to get the stock fuel-cut staging limiter to work in my van...
How did you set up the switch and set points Rob?
'Off' point should be higher than the 'on' point. Use whichever switch you want, or no switch at all if you want it enabled by speed only....
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