No power to fuel pump.

[Turbo_Rampage]

Hey, i just picked up an 89' Chrysler Daytona Shelby, and it's a TII/A555 car with 180,000Km's and it isn't getting any power to the fuel pump... I picked this car up as a none running car with some "engine problems" and after putting the cosmetic parts of the motor back togather and cranking it over, theirs no priming of the fuel pump. (while turning the key on or cranking it over) It's getting spark and has no codes, besides 12 and 55. I've jacked the car up and hooked a voltmeter up to the fuel pump plug then turned the key on and theirs nothing, just 0 volts. I even tried jumping the fuel pump directly at the gas tank and it doesn't do anything, so i'm pretty sure the fuel pump is shot. I'm just wondering why theirs no power to the pump? I even ran some jumper wires from the cars fuel pump plug to a new fuel pump while on the ground and turned the key on, and it doesn't even turn the pump on. I changed out the fuel pump relay (ASD relay) from my running car thinking that was the problem, but it wasn't... so where should i start looking now? I also put in a known good HEP with no change.
Is there a fusable link that blows when the fuel pump dies... I can't see this happening, but i've seen more weird things happen with these cars. Is it possible to get the fuel pumps out of these cars without dropping the tank? It almost looks like it will come out of there but i'm unsure.

[mcsvt]

May want to check the wires going back, maybe there is a break in them some where?

Also you should be able to get it out without dropping the tank. I didn't have any issues with my SL, haven't had to pull the one in the Daytona yet.

[Turbo_Rampage]

May want to check the wires going back, maybe there is a break in them some where?

Also you should be able to get it out without dropping the tank. I didn't have any issues with my SL, haven't had to pull the one in the Daytona yet.

I'll have a closer look at the wiring for any breaks. the wiring coming through the floor and going to the fuel pump looked in really good shape, so if their is a break somewhere it will be inside the car or under the hood. The relay doesn't even click or anything, so i'm thinking it might be a fusable link if their is one for the pump? The car hasn't been started in about 2-3 years... it was just sitting in a barn.

I hope the fuel pump comes out without dropping the tank, because i hate getting those gas tank strap bolts loose!

[MiniMopar]

Check for power at the fuel rail and ignition coil when cranking. You said it was getting spark, so it's probably not a fusible link. Sounds like a wiring issue.

[tryingbe]

You don't even have to jack up the car to take out the fuel pump assembly.

[Turbo_Rampage]

You don't even have to jack up the car to take out the fuel pump assembly.

How do you do it on the ground? I know the L-bodies you can do without jacking the car up, but the G-bodies are in the middle at the top side of the tank at the back.

[tryingbe]

Get under the car and arm with the below tools.

Knife to cut the hose.
Small screw driver to undo the clamps
Big screw driver and hammer to undo the ring.

[R/T]

Try the HEP.

[BIGBRUDDA]

check for aGOOD ground. At the tank. I've had it happen twice. 1 led to a fire.

[Turbo_Rampage]

Check for power at the fuel rail and ignition coil when cranking. You said it was getting spark, so it's probably not a fusible link. Sounds like a wiring issue.

I will go out and check this right now and report back.

Try the HEP.

I put in a known good one from a running TD.

Get under the car and arm with the below tools.

Knife to cut the hose.
Small screw driver to undo the clamps
Big screw driver and hammer to undo the ring.

Holy crap! do you want to come change my pump out, I couldn't even get that lock ring off with the car jacked up 2' in the air, but their is some rust around where the ring is, so that's maybe why it won't budge. Plus i don't want to get attacked by a rodent or spider because this car has been off the road for a few years,

[Turbo_Rampage]

I just finished testing the coil, injector harness and ASD relay and they all have power while cranking over. It goes to 10-11V while cranking (portable booster for battery) when i turn the key to the run position (not cranking it over) it gets an extremely quick voltage spike to about 1V then goes back to zero. I'm thinking my voltmeter gauge doesn't read as fast to see the full 12V, but there is defenatly power for a quick second. I never did test the power at the fuel pump while cranking over... I'm going to try and get the fuel pump out and put a new one in and see if it magically fixes itself.

I sprayed some butane in the throttle body (didn't have any gas) and cranked it over and it fired and sputtered, so all i need to do is get the fuel pump problem fixed and see how healthy this motor is after years of sitting.

[tryingbe]

Holy crap! do you want to come change my pump out, I couldn't even get that lock ring off with the car jacked up 2' in the air, but their is some rust around where the ring is, so that's maybe why it won't budge. Plus i don't want to get attacked by a rodent or spider because this car has been off the road for a few years,

Buy me a 2 way plane ticket and I'll come to do it for free.

PB blaster usually help with rust, I have only done TD fuel pumps on non rusty cars.

[Turbo_Rampage]

PB blaster usually help with rust, I have only done TD fuel pumps on non rusty cars.

I soaked it in PB Blaster yesterday, so it should be a little easier to break free. The car doesn't have any rust underneith, which is surprising for a Canadian car, but some douche bag jacked the car up by the front passenger floor pan and caved it in, so i'll have to remove the carpet and hammer it back down... It just seems to be rusty around the fuel pump access, which is just my luck.

[Turbo_Rampage]

Well today i went and bought a brand new fuel pump from Napa (the complete hanger assembly) and installed it... all i can say is, removing the stock fuel pump assembly is impossible without lowering the tank. I spent a half hour fighting with it, then i realized it goes into the tank about 12" and is pretty much the same diameter as the opening of the tank, so i fought with gas tank straps and finally got them off. Then i lowered the tank about 8" and it was still a PITA to get out, but i managed. Before lowering the tank i even tried putting jack stands under the frame and lowering the tag axle to gain more room, but it still never worked. The new fuel pump assemby is WAY smaller, and i can see that it wouldn't be a problem coming out without dropping the tank in the future.

Judging by the smell of the gas that was in the tank, i think this car has been off the road for more then 2yrs! I had to drain the tank and bleed the fuel lines in the car, because the gas was so old... after getting the new pump in it still never had power to the pump, so i started bending the wires at the ASD relay and the pump came to life. Then i changed out the spark plugs and began the battle to get it started and after about a half hour of sputtering and stalling it finally cleared out and now idles perfect! It still smokes a bit, but i have only idled it for a maximum of 5 minutes, which is not even enough for it to clear itself out (has no coolent in it) The oil pressure is awesome in it and it seems to be pulling pretty decent vaccuum (16hg) i also noticed the lifters were clacking pretty good for the first couple minutes, but they should pump up after i little bit.

I only have one concern with the motor after removing the plugs...



The 1st plug in the pic was from cyl. 2 and it looks to be packed full of carbon or grease? The porcelen isn't damaged at all it's just packed full of something. (the two plugs above are wet from gas in those pics because i had those plugs in the car while i cranked it over for the first time) What do you think caused that plug to get that dirty? Maybe someone pulled the plug before me and dropped it on the dirty motor? Tomorrow i'll do a compression test and see whats up.

[2.2turboscotty]

i'll bet it wasn't dropped on a dirty motor, looks like may be burning some oil on cyl #2. i guess after you do the compression test you will throw in some new Champions and see if the smoking clears up? may have some sticking rings from sitting without being fired up for a while, could free up after some running time, who knows, i have had that go both ways. i just put a used short block in my SC and it did fine for about 3k and then had an issue which is why i had to rebuild a different motor. good luck!

[Turbo_Rampage]

Well i just did a compression test and here are the numbers from 1 to 4... 110PSI-90PSI-100PSI-95PSI and this was with it fully warmed up, so it looks like all the cylinders are low, and once it warmed up it started smoking even worse, so i think it needs a rebuild or possibly just get away with new rings. It's weird that it idles so smooth, but has that low of compression?

Now i'm thinking of pulling all the good parts off of this Shelby and putting it on my 89 ES, because it's in such good shape. Has anyone ever turned a non T-top car into one? It doesn't look that hard to do...

[magtec]

what kind of smoke?
are you sure the timing is correct?

also, is it just me, or does the spark plug in question look like it's a lot less worn than the others?

[2.2turboscotty]

Alot of times when you do a compression test it will show higher compression readings when hot. if you are idleing smooth i doubt it's out of time, it would have to off pretty bad to cause that kind of low reading and the two seem at least somewhere close on an old motor. i have seen a lot of dirtbikes and fourwheelers that will not start but when pull or push started run because you are heating up the cylinder and building some compression. i'll bet that the motor is going to at a minimum need a rering and bearing job. as far as the t-top thing i have seen others ask the question and most say go find a t-top car it's not worth the work.