BSX progress....

[contraption22]

Umm, I hate you.

But I love you, Frank.

I had to... it was fresh off you pointing out my REPOST.

[Frank]

LOL. I figured as much! I wonder what it would take for Brian to make me one of those headers.

[badandy]

LOL. I figured as much! I wonder what it would take for Brian to make me one of those headers.

From the looks of it a welder and some tubing

I just had to get into the smart ---'d comments going on

[turbo2point2]

Wow, thank again everyone for the comments. I really helps in the motivation department The timing belt tensioner is a T-III piece that i had around. But I could use almost any eccentric type.

"The real question is where did you get the header?''

Thanks Frank, while I was building it, I did try and remember some of the things that you felt were necessary for a good piece.

"Good grief that turbo is big.... How in the world is that thing going to spool up, sheer desire and will?"

I believe that it will be all in the tune up. Plus, some ATDC timing should get some heat in that exhaust

[Frank]

Thanks Frank, while I was building it, I did try and remember some of the things that you felt were necessary for a good piece.

Ya, that header is probably one of the better SRT/16V headers I have seen. It should really help in spooling that turbo.... if you need much help at all!

[contraption22]

It's gonna be so badass.

[GLHS592]

Nice work! I like to see people try new things. Whatever happened to that thread showing how you rebuilt the rear suspension and altered the wheelbase? Was that on the other forum? I'd like to see those pictures again.

[Frank]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7746

[R/T]

Looks great, BUT:

What about hood pins????

[turbo2point2]

"Looks great, BUT:

What about hood pins????"

Good one That is one of those things that I don't think I will ever forget again.

Thanks for posting that link Frank. I wanted to try a few different things this time around. The aero stuff is something that I wanted to try out. I also intend to fab up a airdam extension for it and some fender extensions/new fenders to cover up the tires, but some of that stuff will be put on hold to get the car down the track sooner.

[Bubba]

WOW! Very nice set-up Brian. Look forward to seeing it run down the track, get lots of videos!

[Dusty_Duster]

That turbo is almost as big as the head. Very nice!

[iTurbo]

Wow, thank again everyone for the comments. I really helps in the motivation department The timing belt tensioner is a T-III piece that i had around. But I could use almost any eccentric type.

Thanks. I've been searching for a suitable tensioner from another application to work for the TIII since they are out of production and have no aftermarket. That one looked close, but apparently a little too close. The search continues

[8valves]

That S300 should work well on there Brian. I'm glad the main caps worked out well for you, hopefully they aid in keeping the bottom end in good shape. Is your block filled as well?

The car looks great though, sir. I look forward to seeing your hard work pay off.

Any particular rpm range you plan to leave the line at and stay above?

Also, BS3 will help out with the spool, just put the car on some anti-lag and let it eat before you leave the line! We can get 27 psi at 8000rpms on my brother's car on a 2.0L with an 81mm inducer GT series turbo in 1.7 seconds on the line. I think that would let you leave plenty hard! Ha!

[turbo2point2]

"That S300 should work well on there Brian. I'm glad the main caps worked out well for you, hopefully they aid in keeping the bottom end in good shape. Is your block filled as well?"

After looking at a bunch of maps, comparing prices, racer feedback, etc. I felt the S300 was my best choice. The block is filled, but so was the last one. That's why I'm counting one those caps

"The car looks great though, sir. I look forward to seeing your hard work pay off."

Thanks! I am getting pretty excited to get 'er running. Waiting on very few small parts and the mock motor/trans will come out and in with the good stuff!

"Any particular rpm range you plan to leave the line at and stay above?"

Unsure of launch rpm at the moment, I don't need to make a ton of power to cut a nice 60'. Time will tell how the powerband looks in this car, 4800-5200 seems like a good starting point, and keeping it above 5500. For some reason, I still think this combo will make low end. We shall see...

"Also, BS3 will help out with the spool, just put the car on some anti-lag and let it eat before you leave the line! We can get 27 psi at 8000rpms on my brother's car on a 2.0L with an 81mm inducer GT series turbo in 1.7 seconds on the line. I think that would let you leave plenty hard! Ha!"

Agreed on the anti-lag stuff. Pretty sweet stuff 27psi @ 8000 nice in 1.7 secs. Nice!

[Speedeuphoria]

I know you were the 1st hybrid I ever heard off, were you r=the 1st period?

I wish you great success with the car, as its a monster and you have learned me many things

What kind of head/cam are you running?

[turbo2point2]

OK, an update since it has been a while. I decided to do the front end before I debut the car for the first time since Nov '06. I felt that a fiberglass front end was probably most beneficial. Weight savings & improved aerodynamics would be the most realized benefits from a 1 piece front end. But there are a few other benefits as well.

After a search, I found the only way to get what I wanted for what I wanted to spend was to do it myself. I have never had much to do with fiberglass but I figured wtf, just try it. I spent a bunch of hours reading on how to go about my project. The pictures came out ok, detail cannot really be seen but you can get the idea of what I am trying to do.

I also molded a new rear roll pan copied directly from the one I fabbed from sheetmetal. That piece came out sweet! Weighs in about 3.5 lbs. compared to 13lbs and is strong as heck!! The first pic of the roll pan shows the mold and the part after seperation. The front end pics are of the mold only since I haven't started making the part yet. This has really taken a bunch of time to do, but I think it will all be worthwhile in the end.

[moparman76_69]

What process did you use to make the mold?

[cordes]

That looks great. Thanks for posting up the pics. I too am interested in the process.

[turbo2point2]

"What process did you use to make the mold?"

I don't know if there is a special term for the way I did it. I used the front end that was on the car, and modified it. For instance, I used fender flares from a Dodge Nitro and modified them to fit my car. I also used modeling clay to fill in low areas and transitions. After aligning the front end, I went to town waxing it. Fiberglassing requires a special wax so that the molds and parts will release easily. After 8 coats of the wax, it was time to spray on a few layers of PVA. PVA is like an insurance policy that your part will release and the underlying surface will not be harmed by resin or gelcoat. When the pva dries, I sprayed on 3 heavy coats of gelcoat for a thickness of about 15-20 mil. The gelcoat provides a nice, smooth durable surface for molding parts or can be left alone as the topcoat on the finished part.

So when the gelcoat cures, you start laying the glass in. For the molds I used 1.5oz. chop mat. This is great for building thickness and for getting in those compound curves. I molded the front end in 3 pieces and the roll pan in 2. The reason is so that when the mold or part is finished, the mold can be taken apart for easy removal, otherwise it may not come apart without breaking. For the front end, I did the fenders first, then the hood area. The first pic shows the front before the hood mold was started. Second pic is the pva going down on the hood. You can also see the modeling clay where the grill meets the bumper.

When a bunch of layers are built up and a lot of resin consumed, you can remove the mold from the car. Mold thickness should be 2-3 times thicker than the part to be produced. If the mold will be a one time deal, you can go thinner. I built mine thick in case I needed to make a copy down the road. For making the part, it is the same for making the mold. Start by fixing any trouble spots on the mold, wet sand, polish and wax. PVA the mold, spray the gelcoat on, wait, and start glassing. After many hours, you too can have fiberglass parts for your car!

I realized that after typing this I have made one mistake, that was not thanking my great friend Justin Cronk, a fellow TD'er who has given me 30 hours of his time so far! This is a good friend tester, a true friend will still come back to help after putting so much time in. Thanks Bud!!