Any easy cures for a corroded bead seat? (Centurians)
I lost a tire a few months ago and finally got a new tire on it, they cleaned the rim up a bit but it's losing air from the bead still..
I got the work van for a DD for a while now but it's not as fun as Omni..
The shop I used to work at had this liquid rubber bead sealer we'd use. We'd have to clean the corrosion off the rim with a wire wheel, clean the bead of the tire really well with rubber cleaner, and then paint on that bead sealer.
That plus I had a set of Goodrich that just wouldn't seal. The bead was too hard. I had used Goodrich 20 years till that problem. The store even switched to another set.Originally Posted by supercrackerbox
Plus there are different style wheel weights for mags. MANY different styles.
I think I've seen that sealer actually, thanks for reminding me!
I was also toying with painting the inner area of the rim with Glyptal, not too sure if that'll help or work though.
Get an angle grinder and one of the $15 wire wheels that have the bristles wrapped together and hit it with that. It will take off all of the corrosion and leave a nice finish. You shouldn't have to do this again for at least couple of years.
The bead sealer is a bandaid fix, and not worth the trouble.
Ahh, forgot about that, thanks for reminding me. Yes, if they used the wrong weights to balance the wheel, that can also cause a bead leak. I don't remember the number code, but the weights for our stock wheels should be color coded red (the package, not the weight itself). Also, be sure to get the coated weights and not the bare lead ones. The bare ones will corrode the aluminum and leave a very nasty stain on the wheel in a very short amount of time.
Shortly before I left the company, they switched to some off brand stuff that was just too runny to work properly. Prior to that, we used Tech brand, which was nice and thick, and worked great. I sealed some tires that should have been hopeless.
sand, clean and JB weld the pits and sand smooth again. should work fine.
Brian
Yes, they are Al weights, although it is very rare that the wrong type of weight being used will cause a leak. We used to use the Al weights on everything because they were less than half the price of the "right" weight for some wheels. The average person will never notice a slight gap between the wheel weight and the rim, but .50+ cents per weight sure adds up quickly.
Also, +1 for the tech brand stuff. They had the best patches ever, as I think you would have to try to make one not work on the first try.
If your Al wheel is pitted you have got some serious chemical problems going on.sand, clean and JB weld the pits and sand smooth again. should work fine.
Brian
Yeah, I've read recently that there's all kinds of stuff JB Weld is good for.sand, clean and JB weld the pits and sand smooth again. should work fine.
Brian
For some reason, Michellin tires seemed to be really bad about that, at least on older wheels.
If your Al wheel is pitted you have got some serious chemical problems going on.
I never really noticed a difference in corrosion on Al wheels with any different type of tire on them. The biggest difference that I saw was in the quality or type of finish. You couldn't get me to put a chrome wheel on my car these days. The chrome is cheap, and when it begins to corrode and flake off of an Al wheel there is no protection underneath and all hades breaks out. The cheap foreign made wheels are just bad for corrosion in general from what I have seen.
I can see why the michelins might be more prone to leaking though. Their bead were generally speaking, stronger than anything else out there. They were also molded very smoothly and true, so there were a couple series michelins which we had to use the proper type of weight or they would leak for sure.
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