Gauging interest on TIII distributor plates and machined cam ends!

[turbovanman²]

I am going to have my machinist friend make me a plate, similiar to this one-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...8&postcount=17


I obviously can't price it out until I have an aprox show of hands.

Edited out machining cams,

[iTurbo]

I'm interested, although a little soon for me to commit. After my Lancer project is done, I'm putting a TIII in my Omni with distributor. I had originally planned on a distributor in the stock location, but that would mean getting a very expensive intake manifold to provide clearance. Will this fit a TIII L-body?

[ShelGame]

I think I'd get one, too. If it's reasonable. It looks like a pretty simple flat plate, so I could make it myself at work - given the time.

[Omniboy]

I did one like that. I just used a little bit of ultra grey silicone on the plate. Also you need to do some other mods to the pick-up wheel as the distributor will turn backwards on the cam and also swap the trigger wires.

[turbovanman²]

I did one like that. I just used a little bit of ultra grey silicone on the plate. Also you need to do some other mods to the pick-up wheel as the distributor will turn backwards on the cam and also swap the trigger wires.

Thanks but trust me, easier than running a distributor, alot cheaper too,

[Clay]

Thanks but trust me, easier than running a distributor, alot cheaper too,

Im confused here Simon. John did the same thing, and used a distributor a few years back. He's saying what else needs to be done for the distributor to work..... what are you talking about?

[turbovanman²]

Im confused here Simon. John did the same thing, and used a distributor a few years back. He's saying what else needs to be done for the distributor to work..... what are you talking about?

In the stock spot,

[karlak]

Any known wear issues with this mod. Would hate to have distributer shafts snapping off. Still want to try it.

[Clay]

ok, cool. I just want to make sure I understand whats going on for future reference!

[turbovanman²]

ok, cool. I just want to make sure I understand whats going on for future reference!

I'll know more myself after I get one done.

[Omniboy]

I don't see how it could possibly work without modifying the distributor. The exhaust cam will spin the distributor in reverse direction. The way I over came this was to grind the little bit of plastic off of the pick up wheel so you can reposition it one hole back. Then glue it back down. Then you need to swap the trigger wires. Then swap the #2 and #3 plug wires. I don't know of any other way to make it work other than the way I did it. Unless there was some sort of custom calibration that could be done to make it work.

[Omniboy]

The way I described above is the way I did it like 4 years ago on my T3 minivan. I at first thought it would just be a matter of cutting the cam and making the plate. Once mounted I soon found out that just swapping the plug wires was not enough. So then I swapped the pick up wires and this got me closer but still the pick up window was in the incorrect location for reverse rotation. Thus the need for moving the pick up window. I will take some pictures of my setup tomorrow and some pics of the pick up wheel. Has anybody else successfully ran a distributor like this and did it without having to modify the pick-up window ?

[turbovanman²]

The way I described above is the way I did it like 4 years ago on my T3 minivan. I at first thought it would just be a matter of cutting the cam and making the plate. Once mounted I soon found out that just swapping the plug wires was not enough. So then I swapped the pick up wires and this got me closer but still the pick up window was in the incorrect location for reverse rotation. Thus the need for moving the pick up window. I will take some pictures of my setup tomorrow and some pics of the pick up wheel. Has anybody else successfully ran a distributor like this and did it without having to modify the pick-up window ?

I see what your saying and know about swapping the PU wires but why cylinders 2 and 3? the firing order is still the same.

As for the pickup window, the slot is centered in the vane so thats not the problem, maybe the #1 sync is in a different spot on the pickup, or X amount of degrees before/after the #1 firing point.

[turbovanman²]

Ok, just looked at a dist and pu, it looks like the #1 sync sits at 11 oclock looking at the block, so that is going to be an issue. Even turning the HEP around, doesn't alter that location.

[Omniboy]

#2 and #3 will need swapped as well because it will be going in reverse rotation...TRUST ME...I have done it and this is what you have to do to make it work correctly.

[Omniboy]

you have to change the pick up location because of swapping the pick up wires.

[86Shelby]

Omniboy- I'm not following you for the reason the vanes need to be moved. I could understand moving them if someone was dead set on having the body of the distributor in a certain position. When you get down to it if you remove the vanes and move them over 45*, you could have just moved the body of the distributor 45* and accomplished the same thing- granted the flat side of the distributor body won't be in the same position you originally wanted. Am I totally off base with this thinking?

[turbovanman²]

#2 and #3 will need swapped as well because it will be going in reverse rotation...TRUST ME...I have done it and this is what you have to do to make it work correctly.

I understand that, sorry, got lost earlier and yes, the firing order needs to be changed.

Omniboy- I'm not following you for the reason the vanes need to be moved. I could understand moving them if someone was dead set on having the body of the distributor in a certain position. When you get down to it if you remove the vanes and move them over 45*, you could have just moved the body of the distributor 45* and accomplished the same thing- granted the flat side of the distributor body won't be in the same position you originally wanted. Am I totally off base with this thinking?

The TDC spot doesn't change wether the distributor is forward or backwards, its the #1 sync, if you take the top cover off the HEP, you can see the sync sits at 11 oclock, this is the issue whengoing backwards.

[86Shelby]

I still don't understand why you need to remove the trigger wheel and place it in a different position on the shaft. That is a lot of work to do something that can be taken care of by putting the body at a different position. What do you do when the oil pump line is not perfectly aligned with the block? Do you remove the wheel and reposition it? Heck no, you simply rotate the distributor body. Sure, the flat part is at an angle, but that's a whole lot easier than melting the plastic, removing the wheel, and then remelting the plastic to reinstall the wheel. Follow me now? Am I misunderstanding what Omniboy wrote?

Swap pins so the HEP signals are in the correct order- understand. Firing order changes- understood.

[turbovanman²]

I still don't understand why you need to remove the trigger wheel and place it in a different position on the shaft. That is a lot of work to do something that can be taken care of by putting the body at a different position. What do you do when the oil pump line is not perfectly aligned with the block? Do you remove the wheel and reposition it? Heck no, you simply rotate the distributor body. Sure, the flat part is at an angle, but that's a whole lot easier than melting the plastic, removing the wheel, and then remelting the plastic to reinstall the wheel. Follow me now? Am I misunderstanding what Omniboy wrote?

Swap pins so the HEP signals are in the correct order- understand. Firing order changes- understood.

Your not getting it. The #1 sync is at 11 oclock looking at the block, now reverse the rotation and now the #1 sync is at 1 oclock. Moving the distributor does nothing except change both of them, which still puts the #1 sync out. The only way to mod the sync is to move the PU to the other side or somehow mod the window.