trying to figure out my engine..

[shelby zed]

ok here it goes, engine is an 89 2.2 t2, bored .030 with forged wisecos, mains and rods .25 under, had crank and rods machined, block bored, arp rod bolts, new bearings, new everything pretty much. my problem is it has low oil pressure at hot idle, like 3-5 psi... not good. ive plastiguaged some of the rods and mains, and theyre within spec so far, havent done all of them yet, i can only think of a few things that could cause this problem, between my oil pump and block there is no gasket, the cam towers are a little scared from having the head on another engine that lost all of the oil through a blown seal, and thats akk i can think of right now, this weekend i will plastiguage the rest of the mains and rods, and seal between the op and block. can anyone think of anything? the restrictor is in the block and the oil pump is new

[zin]

While you're checking the rod bearing clearance, check the side clearance too. It gets over looked often, mostly because there isn't much you can do, other than swapping the rods around. Sometimes the crank grinders make the journals a little wide....

Hope you find it and it's an easy fix!

Mike

[shelby zed]

would that effect the oil pressure? ie it coming out the sides? how do you guys suggest removing the wave lock rod bolts without effecting the plastiguage reading? put it on the top of the rod?

[zin]

would that effect the oil pressure? ie it coming out the sides? how do you guys suggest removing the wave lock rod bolts without effecting the plastiguage reading? put it on the top of the rod?

I'm guessing what you are asking is how to remove the rod cap, not the actual bolts. Assuming that, you'll need a GRANDE size channel lock pliers, ones that can grip the sides of the rod cap squarely. Then you'll have to pull and rock the cap back and forth, that should do the job, though it won't be easy.

Mike

[turbovanman²]

To remove the rod cap, I remove the nuts, then use a brass punch and hit the rod bolts, this loosens the cap and lets you take it off. I am betting your BS galley plug is leaking or you have the wrong size bearings.

There is supposed to be a rod side clearance but if too large, it will bleed off too much oil pressure.

[shelby zed]

ok, so i think ive figured out most, if not all of the problems. it looks like when the rods where "resized" they just ground the caps and didnt rebore the rods. when the bearings in fully on one side, it sticks out about a 16th of an inch, it doesnt "snap" in either like usual, heres some pics of the bearing after about 1000k. notice the major wear on the sides.

[2.216VTurbo]

Great news you figured it out, sucks that you have to pull the rods to fix it Can't say that I've seen that one before, I wonder if the machine shop guy got distracted after grinding the caps or meant to go back and hone the big end... I suprised it Plasitgauged out alright with that fitment

[shelby zed]

i believe it did because when torqued it pushed the sides out, making it a tight fit so it didnt knock but still had a huge gap. do you think this is my problem? theres only one thats like this... so far. number 2 is good and im going to recheck 3 and 4 today.this should be the machine shops responsibilty to buy me new bearings and fix what they did wrong right? ill have to pull the head as well to get the rods out so now ill need a new head gasket too... and i just did it about 50 kilometers ago... ill draw a picture to show my theory of why it was still tight:
black is the top bearing, red is the bottom, and green is the gap between the bottom and the crank.

[shelby zed]

ok, so i was also wondering, my auxillary shaft that turns the oil pump and distributor has alot of end to end play, is that normal?

[turbovanman²]

Yes, aux shaft end play is normal, I'd say about 1/8 is about right.

If the machine shop resized the rods and messed up, they should be paying for all the parts and of course, redoing the work for free.

[shelby zed]

id rather have another shop do it, these guys are absolute morons... i got in a fight with the machinist so who knows if this was deliuberate

[turbovanman²]

Sorry to hear that. Worst case, send them up here and I can get them done properly if you can't find anyone.

[shelby zed]

ive got another shop in mind, but im not sure if these guys will pay or not, like itll need new bearings, new head gasket, new oil pan gasket, plus hot tanking and other little things, i dont think the crank is scored at all. and ive got headstuds so i dont need new headbolts, can you guys think of anything else ill need to replace?

[turbovanman²]

ive got another shop in mind, but im not sure if these guys will pay or not, like itll need new bearings, new head gasket, new oil pan gasket, plus hot tanking and other little things, i dont think the crank is scored at all. and ive got headstuds so i dont need new headbolts, can you guys think of anything else ill need to replace?

Nope, sounds about right. Just make sure you put the pistons back in the same hole, and take apart the oil pump just to make sure its not scored up.

[shelby zed]

ok, ive got it at another shop right now all dissasembled and theyre checking everything, some rod bearings stuck out, some didnt... something tells me someone was paying attention... they even put a rod on backwards. my cam journals are a little scored from a lubrication problem with a diffrent block before so im not sure if thats part of it, ill find out within the next couple days...

[turbovanman²]

That really blows man,

[shelby zed]

ok so the rods where machined 1.5 thou to big as well as the mains... so its getting line bored. the head is shot which sucks cause it was machined less than 100k ago, the auxilary shaft and aluminum housing are worn out, and thats about it thta i remember, so now its going to cost me another 250 for machining, plus 100 to get another head decked, plus bearings, plus gaskets... so this might be a while. well see what happens, the guy who originallly did the machining didnt believe me that they ------ up and made me send them over there for him to look at. i dont trust these guys so i had the guy at the other shop electric pencil each rod.

[turbovanman²]

Well I hope you get some money back from the original shop but I wouldn't count on it,

Whats wrong with the head?

[shelby zed]

original shop called today, and he measured them for me and said theyre fine... i dont see how that is if one end of the bearing sticks out a 16th of an inch and the rest dont... the new shop said the rods where a thou- a thou and a half to big and same with the mains, simon the head was on an engine for 2 days that the pcv valve got blocked on and then it blew the cam seal out at 15 psi.... the rest is history.. the journals are all scored and aparently its warped. ive got 3 more heads but it sucks i have to get one planed again and get another head gasket. can you put roller stuff into a slider head or are the sliders not crossdrilled?

[turbovanman²]

Roller can go into any head, sliders need to have the oil squirters in the cam caps, or put some in if there not there.