SmoKen on decel 92 IROC R/t

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Thanks

[Blue Iroc R/T]

+1 on the VC Seals being re-usable. HOWEVER, Be aware that Ma Mopar ran out of TIII VC Seals and rumor has it that they were going NS1, then last summer they did make a run of 1000 pcs. So, who knows, when those 1000 are gone, will they make another run? Right now, I have two new sets and one Good Used set in my "TIII Hoarding Stock". If I remember correctly they run list for around $60 set. So, even if yours is good, you may want to pick up a set for a spare. Oh, BTW, there are NO Aftermarket TIII VC Seals.

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Nice information. Thanks. can you PM me the part # so I can order some.

Update, car towed home today... Investigation to follow...

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Engine is coming out....

What is specific to a TIII block? ----- is you cannot even see the cams to see what shape they are in with just the valve cover pulled..

[86Shelby]

Basically, the only differences I've notices on the block itself is there is no hole for the distributor, and the center oil drainback passage is shaped a little different allowing for the vent tube. Otherwise I noticed no differences from the other commonblock in my garage.

As for inspecting the cams, to check the lobes you can unbolt the rocker shafts. Working lazily it'll take 10 minutes to get both covers off and the rocker shafts removed. Be sure to use the right tightening/loosening sequence when removing & installing them.

To check the cam journals it's more involved. Loosen the cam gear bolts before you take tension off the timing belt. Remove the retainer on the drivers side of the cam. Use a prybar to pop the cam out. Carefully place the prybar on a lobe and pry against a thick divider in the middle of the head; the end of the head isn't strong enough for this and will flex or break if you try hard enough. This also removes the cam seal so it might take a bit of force. You'll need to jack up the engine and remove part/all of the motor mount to get the intake cam gear off to make room to pop the cam out.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Ken, what did you see that makes you say the engine needs to come out?

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Ran a magnet in the oil return galleys on the exhaust side.. had metal

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Thanks Ray, I will be removing the head anyway.. Might as well take it off as a unit to send it in to be checked...

[turbovanman²]

Nice information. Thanks. can you PM me the part # so I can order some.

Update, car towed home today... Investigation to follow...

Cindy has them in stock,

Engine is coming out....

What is specific to a TIII block? ----- is you cannot even see the cams to see what shape they are in with just the valve cover pulled..

Remove the valve covers and rocker arms, slowly loosen the tension on the 13mm headed bolts and lift away the rocker arms, then you can clearly see the cams by rotating the engine over by hand.

The head gasket is TIII specific but I used a 2006 MP gasket by modding it, and there half the price,

Valve cover gaskets are bloody expensive, cam seals are unique but the bottom end uses all the same stuff as an 8 valve.

Rubber seal. Pull it out of the valve cover, check for knicks and tears. If none and they didn't leak before just wipe down throughly with brakeclean and a rag. Install dry. Make sure the head surface is free of oil also; I found that makes a difference with how often I've pulled the covers off my car in the alst 500 miles.

Make sure there still soft, both of my used engines the seals were rock hard.

[badandy]

Man...nothing like another iron in the fire huh Ken? Sometimes I wish I could be there to lend you a hand. You just about need a full time mechanic on duty

Heck, I think Warren's on the right track. If it were me (and I wish it was!) I'd just hop into that gorgeous Shelby Lancer and cruise down the road in 8v style

Did you notice how I just had to stick the "8v" in there?...hehe...ahhh, who am I kiddin...I'm just jealous

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Insurance added to the lancer today... Man she is pretty... Registering and liscensing it tomorrow. Hell Just 2 months ahead of whwn I planned to...

No prob re the Iroc.. It is a great car. Starting to pull the engine tomorrow.. And Simon, I will get the correct head gasket. Good info on modding the 006, but $20 for the right one will not kill me

[turbovanman²]

Good info on modding the 006, but $20 for the right one will not kill me

No problem, its not everyones cup of tea,

I need to fix my wifes R/T and pull my head to install some cams so thats $40 to me,

[Blue Iroc R/T]

Ken,
Part Number for Mopar VC Seals = 448 4489 Was $57.70 last summer.

When I swapped heads on mine the last time, I was somewhat worried about loosing the disc's and small parts from the lash adjusters, so Prior to removing the rockers from my OLD head, I wrapped the rocker ends with "3M ESPE Express STD Vinyl Polysiloxane Impression Material Putty" to keep the lash adjusters in place and to prevent loosing any discs or other tiny parts.
http://www.pbase.com/rmscott/blue_rt_head
This worked sorta good. The only problem was when I got the rockers installed on the new head and went to remove the putty, it would break up and I had to use a vacuum to suck all the small pieces of putty up and make sure none got into the head passages. Since the head was still off the car, it wasn't much of a problem.

Also, IF you are going to remove the valves or retainers, The KD 2400 OR KD 3087 works excellent on the TIII heads; http://www.pbase.com/rmscott/valve_spring_compressor You can use this tool with the head ON or OFF the car. You can sometimes find them on eBay or If you need it, let me know and I will loan you mine, when ever you are ready. The way these springs set down in a Counterbore, Standard valve spring tools don't work to well. Let me know if you need it.

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Thanks Ralph, More than likely pulling the head intact and sending it to a shop as well as the block... , We'll see where the damage is.