i have a 91 spirit r/t. so today i put in a boost gauge cause I'm going to the track in a week and i want to get some tuning done on it. well the vac looks good at about 11 to 12 but the boost will sit at 8 and every once in a while spike to 10. does that sound right? i was told that they are stock at 12. I'm running the line off of a vac block i picked up off of FWD. its right on the intake manifold. any ideas as to whats going on of am i just being misinformed?
11 is stock
ok than why am i running 8??
Are you using the factory boost control?
The guage could be "off"
Best way is an MBC, then you can set it and forget it and get more power under the curve,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
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2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
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noOriginally Posted by turbovanman
Are you using the factory boost control?
The guage could be "off"
Best way is an MBC, then you can set it and forget it and get more power under the curve,
i would think that if i didnt just get it today
i have one on there and you can see what i have going on right now
So if your using an MBC or similiar, turn up the boost,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
11 to 12 inches of vacuum? That is pretty low. Have you checked the cam timing lately?
Also if you are running your wastegate line straight off the vac block off the intake manifold with no boost controller it should be around 5-6 psi. If you are still using the stock boost controller you should be around 8psi in the lower gears and 11psi in 3rd and 4th.
what type of mbc are you running?
-Jim Too many cars, not enough time..
i always pulled 11-12lbs in all gears with my TIII when it was stock
I am pretty sure first is lower then the rest and is around 8psi for traction issues. Not entirely sure about 2nd, I could be wrong though.
I have 'heard' that some R/Ts that made it into the dealer for warranty work way back in the day may have had a detuned SBEC installed to prevent more problems. I think these may have had a lower boost goal. Anybody confirm this?
Oh, good catch, if you truly do have 11 to 12 inches at idle, your cam timing is off, which for a TIII, isn't uncommon.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
what by 1 tooth or so?? and now for the real dumb question. how do i adjust it? i know its not like the 8v so what am i looking at here
Last edited by Bardo; 03-20-2008 at 07:16 AM.
Rotate to TDC on #1 cylinder and check the cam gear location by putting pins in the little holes. I usually use a drill bit that just barely fits in the hole. If the drill bit lines up with the hole in the cam gear and the hole in the head it will kind of lock in place. Also make sure the drill bit is pretty level then it should be pretty close to lined up correctly.what by 1 tooth or so?? and now for the real dumb question. how do i adjust it
ok im going to have to d otat before i go to the track and when it warms up a little bit
I get about 10 in/hg vacuum in my Spirit R/T. Part of the reason is because I live at 7200 ft and also have performance reground cams. I have redone the timing belt countless times and experimented a lot with adjustable cam sprockets and it doesn't change much.
lol. ok but it doesn't have a adjustable cam gear on it is that going to make a difference and is this going to be a PITA to do. i have never messed with the timing on a 16v
I'll be honest and say that if you've never done it, it can be a pain. Adjustable sprockets are for those that want to eek out every last WHP or need the adjustment due to aftermarket cams, or where the timing is thrown off due to the engine being decked or head excessively milled.
I just retimed my Spirit R/T yesterday actually. IIRC, you need two 7/32" drill bits. You'll have to cut one of the bits short so it fits into the intake gear because of the close proximity of the motor mount. Jackson (lotashelbys) makes some nifty pins that make this easier. You'll need to put the car on jackstands, remove the plastic shields, remove acc belt and idler pullies, spark plugs, and the accessory pulley on the crank. Then use either dial indicator with an extension or a long socket extension in the #1 spark plug hole to verify the engine is at TDC for #1. There is a small dot on the crank shaft sprocket that will line up with a notch in the front seal housing. Do yourself a big favor and loosen the rocker shafts so that the valve spring tension doesn't constantly change the timing belt tension. This will also make the engine a lot easier to rotate by hand and properly locate the cam sprockets. If the cams are timed properly, the drill bits will insert through the holes in the cam sprockets and go into the small holes in the head behind the sprockets. If not, remove the timing belt, align the crank and cam gears, and reinstall the belt. You need to make sure to work out all the slack in the belt to the tensioner side, which can be tricky. You'll also need a timing belt tension gauge to properly tension the belt while the rocker shafts are still loose, otherwise you won't get a consistent reading.
wow i feel like a tard but am going to need to pull the valve cover off to do this (btw) anyone else think this should be a sticky
You don't have to pull the valve covers, but I would so you can loosen the rocker shafts so it will be a lot easier to align the cam/crank sprockets, turn the engine over, and properly tension the belt. Removing the valve covers is easy and the gaskets are reusable. Also, just so you know, you don't have to time the I-shaft sprocket like the SOHC cars because it doesn't drive a distributor.
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