can they hold and what should i buy

[Bardo]

ok i like to get WAY ahead of my self ( it gives me something to shoot for ) anyway. im looking at a 90 sundance with a t1 turbo. i have +40's already and im looking to get a custom cal and a fmic. now i have a few questions. will stick 2.5 pistons and rods hold 18 to 20 psi. who makes the better cal FWD-P or TU. i looked at both and they look the same but fwd is 175 and tu is about 220 whats the big difference. last but not least is there a ic that doesnt have a 1.5 psi drop OR what is the best ic for the money im looking to spend about 200 to 275 on one. lkm guys i could use the help
tia
AJ

[Frank]

They can hold for a long time depending on how good condition the rings and such are in. I would go with TU because you can customize and tell him that you are running stock pistons and he may back off the timing and/or fuel for reliability.

frank

[Bardo]

any thought on the intercooler

[mrboost]

Everything Frank said, plus we can add a check engine light flash for knock feature to alert you when the computer is pulling timing.

We've done almost 400 WHP on +40's, and 500WHP with the benifit of nitrous and it's fuel jet on +40's. Both figures are 8 valve motors which require more "cooling fuel" than a 16V, don't worry the +40's go a long way.

There is a reason for the price difference, it reflects the time, investment, and knowledge that goes into every cal. Trust me, it's worth the extra coin!

ok i like to get WAY ahead of my self ( it gives me something to shoot for ) anyway. im looking at a 90 sundance with a t1 turbo. i have +40's already and im looking to get a custom cal and a fmic. now i have a few questions. will stick 2.5 pistons and rods hold 18 to 20 psi. who makes the better cal FWD-P or TU. i looked at both and they look the same but fwd is 175 and tu is about 220 whats the big difference. last but not least is there a ic that doesnt have a 1.5 psi drop OR what is the best ic for the money im looking to spend about 200 to 275 on one. lkm guys i could use the help
tia
AJ

[cordes]

If I had to do it over again, I would get a large NPR cooler for my shadow. They are relativly easy to plumb in from what I have seen, and they are pretty cheap.

+1 for the TU cal.

[mrboost]

I forgot to mention, in the near future TU will be releasing an entire line of lower cost calibrations. They won't be custom, but each will include a dyno graph, shorter turnaround time than the custom cals, and best of all, a parts list so that you can duplicate our results!!

Everything Frank said, plus we can add a check engine light flash for knock feature to alert you when the computer is pulling timing.

We've done almost 400 WHP on +40's, and 500WHP with the benifit of nitrous and it's fuel jet on +40's. Both figures are 8 valve motors which require more "cooling fuel" than a 16V, don't worry the +40's go a long way.

There is a reason for the price difference, it reflects the time, investment, and knowledge that goes into every cal. Trust me, it's worth the extra coin!

[cordes]

I forgot to mention, in the near future TU will be releasing an entire line of lower cost calibrations. They won't be custom, but each will include a dyno graph, shorter turnaround time than the custom cals, and best of all, a parts list so that you can duplicate our results!!

TU stepping up to the plate again. Nice work.

[GLHSKEN]

That's a helluva idea... Blueprints to power.

[86Shelby]

Sounds like the GN guys and their 'recipies'.

[turbovanman²]

Honestly and I'll keep saying this, cast are ok but if your going to the hassle of rebuilding an engine, buy FORGED. Sure, you pay $250ish more but if you a lean out, bad injector, bad gas under boost, your pistons will live and you won't have to buy another set, and the most important part, you don't have to tear your fresh engine apart AGAIN, lol!
Oh, stock rods are fine, deburr, shot peen and ARP rod bolts.
+infinity on the TU cal,

[Bardo]

ok what about the safm that glhs592 has has anyonw eals tryed to mes with it? from what i hear it run's everything and can be programed while your sitting there www.sdsefi.com . lmk

[TurbododgePirate]

ok what about the safm that glhs592 has has anyonw eals tryed to mes with it? from what i hear it run's everything and can be programed while your sitting there www.sdsefi.com . lmk

You're talking a completely different animal with a stand alone system. I will be using MegasquirtNSpark as my standalong.

You are better off with the calibration if you want to drive the car.

[Directconnection]

Oh, stock rods are fine, deburr, shot peen and ARP rod bolts.
+infinity on the TU cal,

Most importantly...have them resized

[mrboost]

+1 on the rod resize. When I worked at the speed shop, we always got a kick out of people building a motor to set the world on fire, and didn't pay any attention to the rods, crank or block. Why would you, they don't make any horsepower!!!

SDS and other forms or DFI are great, because you can tune them yourself. They are more commonly used on more dedicated race cars, because there is more of a need to be able to change the cal when you need to. The down sides are that you have to install a whole kit, cost, and for the increased cost, you don't get all the bells and whistles that the stock ECU has for driveability, cruise control, battery charging, and control of the A/C clutch.

This might not be the best place to ask, but you guys that have put DFI on your cars, did you have to wire in a voltage regulator? Just wondering, I never thought of that until now.

Most importantly...have them resized

[Directconnection]

The down sides are that you have to install a whole kit, cost, and for the increased cost, you don't get all the bells and whistles that the stock ECU has for driveability, cruise control, battery charging, and control of the A/C clutch.

I think the major downside to a stand alone system is that you really have to KNOW what you are doing with the tune. I mean, anybody could add spark and fuel to the boost to get EGTs where it's needed and make good hp, but to take full advantage you really need to know your stuff inside and out. Buying a cal from a reputable vender takes the guess work out of this.

[turbovanman²]

Most importantly...have them resized

Well durrrrrrr, lol! thats just a given,

[Directconnection]

I have seen people that don't do the neccessary machine work.... this is extremely important. They tear down a motor and put new bearings and rings on a 150,000 mile 2.2, but don't realize the clearances are all messed up due to wear, block stresses relieving themselves over the years (meaning the mains and such aren't very true anymore) and the mains and rod big ends are not round, they become oval. My friend's VNT motor had one of the mains out of round by .0035 if I remember correctly. Crank may not be totally straight, and the block's deck isn't flat either.

If we are talking about a professionaly rebuilt motor that needs freshening...that's one thing, but an original factory motor with well over
100k is another.

I know of a couple people that had a rod bearing go...and all they did was replace the bearing with a new one...only to have it fail in short order again.

[87turbodance]

I'm running megasquirt and yes I installed an external regulator. I killed a few before realizing i had bad ground and two of the 3 phases in my alternator were burnt.