BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[cordes]

Would have had ti running last night if I had oil pressure... The pump would just not prime... great *sigh* I knew the billet rotor felt a little loose OK, time to take it all back apart and put the powdered metal grenade back in, yay!

That's horrible JT. Did they include any special directions or anything? I can't imagine having to pull the oil pump after all the work you've done. Best of luck.

[dodgeshadowchik]

That is horrible...

Hope that you can figure something out today. What do the SRT4 people use on their high HP builds? Do they try to get the aformentioned pump that's on intergalactic backorder?

[contraption22]

That is horrible...

Hope that you can figure something out today. What do the SRT4 people use on their high HP builds? Do they try to get the aformentioned pump that's on intergalactic backorder?

A bunch of them bought the same pump that JT did. I am wondering ig they are all having the same problems. If memory serves, this guy said it would be the last batch he made, which might leave DCR as the only remaining option.

[dodgeshadowchik]

Ah, ok.

Gawd, thats such a bummer...

[turboshad]

Did you pack it with vasoline or something or put it in "dry"?

[bakes]

Did you pack it with Vaseline or something or put it in "dry"?

+1 on packing the pump. I put my pump back in the Lancer and i forgot to pack it and i had 8L in the pan so i used the internmate shaft to prime the pump ,took 1 min to get the pump to prime.

[contraption22]

Did you pack it with vasoline or something or put it in "dry"?

Uh.... are you implying that his engine is f***ed?

[turboshad]

Uh.... are you implying that his engine is f***ed?

No, not at all. That is what assembly lube is for. The vasoline is just nice and thick so it stays in the pump after it is assembled. When you first start it it will seal the pump like the oil does to create suction to prime better. It will just dissolve into the oil and come out with the first start and idle oil change. So now you know that vasoline can be used for more than buying parts from DCR.

[raccoon]

^^ +1

I wonder if there is a way to "wet" the pump while its installed. spray it will somekinda lube in a can.

[Aries_Turbo]

does the oil filter passage go straight to the pump or are there any valves in there?

you could use an oil filter adapter to backfeed oil to the pump.

Brian

[contraption22]

No, not at all. That is what assembly lube is for. The vasoline is just nice and thick so it stays in the pump after it is assembled. When you first start it it will seal the pump like the oil does to create suction to prime better. It will just dissolve into the oil and come out with the first start and idle oil change. So now you know that vasoline can be used for more than buying parts from DCR.

Sorry, I was making a play on the words "packing it with vaseline vs. putting it in dry"

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Did you pack it with vasoline or something or put it in "dry"?

Does work good though

No, not at all. That is what assembly lube is for. The vasoline is just nice and thick so it stays in the pump after it is assembled. When you first start it it will seal the pump like the oil does to create suction to prime better. It will just dissolve into the oil and come out with the first start and idle oil change. So now you know that vasoline can be used for more than buying parts from DCR.

OUCH !!! but true

does the oil filter passage go straight to the pump or are there any valves in there?

you could use an oil filter adapter to backfeed oil to the pump.

Brian

I was thinking the same thing but isn't the oil filter lower then the pump?

[Aries_Turbo]

I was thinking the same thing but isn't the oil filter lower then the pump?

trans funnel full of oil and a hose down to the adapter. let it sit overnight.

Brian

[BadAssPerformance]

Well, last night (Friday) I went to prime it... pump was "dry" and no prime... so I pulled the pan and primed the pump with assembly lube and still, no prime... well it kind of did when I was feeding ti lube by hand but then assembled wouldnt get aything even to teh filter.... This morning I took the pump off and measured the thickness of the billet rotor... .4175 then I took the brand new powdered metal rotor (the one I took out of the new pump housing to put the billet one in) and it measured .4220 thick. I then re-installed the pump with the PM rotor and did get it to prime at least enough to get oil past the filter ... yay! Still not enough to get to the gauge but I called it a day early in the afternoon so Dave and I could go scout out the rally route Will mess with it more tomorrow...

[contraption22]

That sucks JT. And must be frustrating. What's your next move?

[BadAssPerformance]

Yeah.... getting quick at dissassembling and reassembling everything tho, LOL!

Next move? Gonna see if it will prime better after sitting... assuming that goes well... gotta finish putting it back together (mounts, etc) put plugs in, fire it up, set base timing, change oil, drill dowel hole in damper...

Already sent a PM to the gear provider.... we'll see what he says... I took pics of the digital caliper measurements of the rotors to send him... Actually when originally putting it together I told him I thought the rotor felt a little loose/thin and he said thats how they are... shame on me for not measuring it then

Between this pump, the ACT disk I had to re-rivet and another part I cant use, I am really wondering if part manufacturers have a quality control proceedure? Ya know, like a final inspection or measurement before sending stuff out the door?

[turboshad]

That all just sucks JT. But .0025 seems like it would be a decently tight tolerance. That being said I have no clue how tight things need to be in the pump to make it suck.

Sorry, I was making a play on the words "packing it with vaseline vs. putting it in dry"

LOL....ah I get it now, sorry I'm a bit slow. If it helps I was a little surprised you thought it might have f****ed the engine.

[black86glhs]

JT, what about making a shim to take up the difference between the billet and PM ones?

[BadAssPerformance]

That all just sucks JT. But .0025 seems like it would be a decently tight tolerance. That being said I have no clue how tight things need to be in the pump to make it suck.

.0025? Whats that? The difference between the two rotors was .0045 and I didnt measure the cavity they set in to see what the clearance is... prolly would have to use plastigage and clamp it up?

JT, what about making a shim to take up the difference between the billet and PM ones?

I thought about that but both the housing and the cover have detail that needs to be exposed to the rotor and ring to work... the cover detail is kinda visible in the bottom of this pic... Its stuff like this that make me guess the thickness makes a big difference and if its too thin its easy for oil to slip past?

[raccoon]

might just need to spin a tad faster to get going, as long as youve got the pump sealed and its not sucking air in. I feel it should just work.

did you prime your last 2.4 this way?