1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Might just be the pressure relief valve ? I just take the oil filter off and pour some oil into the block cavity and let it sit for a few minutes to soak into the pump and your good to go.
Sorry to hear this....
Maybe the car is nervous about running against the big engines in a few weeks.
Like I told you over a txt message, let me know if you're in need of anything; I have that SRT engine i could steal things from to let you get this thing going for the time being. it's not going anywhere anytime soon.
"I'll give you anything you'll ever need and I'll find a way to turn you into a monster."
JT, if you get enough pressure when pumping in the assembly lube I would think it could squeeze out the front seal. I would be sure to rotate the crank while you're doing it so the lube has a place to go. Otherwise you will be pumping it into a closed space. I know you know what it looks like but this pic helped me "see" where the lube would travel. Oh, and make sure that top O-ring is in there
Looking at that pic does help but still not sure how it is easily passing out the crank snout... its not coming out the front seal, but rather the back side in this pic... and its coming out fairly easily like when I push my finger into the pickup hole full of ghease... should it come out that easily? ...might be time to throw a new pump in just to be sure?
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
My 2 cents,
+1 on the new pump. Tommy could be right about the oil pump having something to do with the t-belt being thrown in the first place.
Cheap insurance for that pretty new head...
CG
Yeah, my thoughts exactly CG... now to find one FAST!
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
It could pass through the clearances to the back plate just like it would to the front seal. That being said I don't think it should pass that easily. I could try it on mine tonight if you like. After your experience I'll be packing it anyway. Either way I think an inspection is in order. Way better safe then sorry, especially when it comes to your oil pump. You may want to check your rod bearings too if you had it running with no pressure.
I agree with DJ on this one...even if it was only running for a little bit. Since it didn't build any oil pressure after not being run for quite some time, it's likely there was little (if any) oil between the crank and the bearings.
If I were in your shoes, I'd defniitely get a new pump, but I also think I'd be popping rod caps to inspect the bearings. I might even pop off a main cap or two to get a look at the mains.
Good luck...I hope the SDAC curse doesn't hit you too.
The 2.4s have a bedplate which is why I just suggested the rods. But if the rods show bad signs then you can almost bet the mains aren't doing so hot either. If the rods are good than the mains probably are too.
Thanks to MoparBoyy, new pump should be here tomorrow...
Yeah, not sure if I want to look at any bearings or just run it
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
I know the feeling, but the ignorance is bliss policy doesn't work when it comes to bearings. Throw one and it's a complete tear down and rebuild which will most likely include a crank grind and it could also easily take out the turbo. I'm constantly forcing myself to not be lazy because all I want to be is done.
Yes, just need a puller.
Well, the verdict is... oil pump FUBAR the rotor let go... so not sure if that was a cause of or result of the timing belt carnage?
Pulling rod caps now...
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
Just have to love that powdered metal. It's so easily molded to shape, so easily machined, so strong, but rattle it a little bit and BANG it's in a million pieces.
On this note JT If your old head cam journals were scored that would be one of the farthest points from the oil pump if they were ok then the bottom end is closer gets oil before the head so....
Next question.....stock balancer ATI Balancer or solid alum underdrive pulley
Dean Stillie
87 Shelby Z 2.4 Turbo 9.06@146.05
82 Rampage 2.4 Turbo 10.14@138.02
Cam journals were OK in the old head... Rod bearings looked *OK*, as in definitely some wear, but still smooth for the most part. Rod journals looked nice except one had a small groove in it. ... so I slapped some assembly lube on em and torqued them back down.... if it went out on the last run like I think it did, I am amazed its not worse? Also, luckily, the crank snout flats (that drive the OP) dont have a scratch on them... like John said above, powdered metal.. guess its a lot softer
As for pulleys... Running an ebay aluminum UD pulley thats a knock off of Unorthadox or something.. I cut the PS groove off and added a 7" SBC MSD crrank trigger wheel which I indicate within .005" when I bolt it on.
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.