BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[Shadow]

Damn, I'm missing everything this year! Congrates man! That some awesome 60's and consistant to boot! What preasure were you running in the slicks?

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks Rob!

The 60' look better when shifting 2nd after the 60' light, LOL!

10.5psi ... cold day so higher after the burnout/run... 24.5x8.5 M&Hs

I think higher pressure helps this car as it is so front heavy?

[22shelby]

taking notes, taking notes

[Shadow]

So when did you switch to the 120lb inj's? I read back quite a few pages and didn't find where you had them installed and how well they worked.

[BadAssPerformance]

Running 30psi at 7k rpm thru 72pph's at SDAC... my data log said ~129% DC Ordered the 120's when I got home, they have been in ever since, LOL!

[BadAssPerformance]

Good day at the track today... tried a new rear stiffening mod… didn’t seem to help the 60’ but we’ll see how the runs looks side by side… Thanks to Skibbe for filming!

Run #1 - Right off the trailer, maybe the first pass down the track, spun all over the place and short-shifted then bogged 2nd… Also first trial with ‘stiffy’ rear suspension mod Rev 001 ~ 29psi

R/T: .246
60': 1.858
330': 5.507
1/8ET: 8.136
1/8mph: 97.68
1000'ET: 10.262
1/4ET: 12.047
1/4mph: 127.31

Run #2 - ~29psi

R/T: .266
60': 1.716
330': 4.714
1/8ET: 7.158
1/8mph: 14.05 (Lowest 1/8 MPH EVER!)
1000'ET: 9.221
1/4ET: 10.960
1/4mph: 130.37

Run #3 - ~29psi – upped the 30psi timing to 12° from 10° … no difference

R/T: .048
60': 1.710
330': 4.713
1/8ET: 7.097
1/8mph: 104.76
1000'ET: 9.158
1/4ET: 10.892
1/4mph: 130.68 (new best mph at this point... getting consistent)

Run #4 - ~29psi – tried to launch off 5k rpm 2-step… need some practice with this

R/T: .347
60': 2.886 (ouch)
330': 6.165
1/8ET: 8.592
1/8mph: 103.44
1000'ET: 10.658
1/4ET: 12.399
1/4mph: 130.30

Run #5 - ~29psi – this was a fun run, had a fast RWD car in the other lane… he went 11.07 @ 124, I needed another football field to drive around him! oh, and the boost was only 24psi in 1 and 2, not sure why?

R/T: .147
60': 1.786
330': ---
1/8ET: 7.514
1/8mph: 102.75
1000'ET: 9.591
1/4ET: 11.336
1/4mph: 130.69 (New best MPH!)

Run #6 - ~29psi cheezed 2nd

R/T: .555
60': 1.768
330': 5.183
1/8ET: 7.680
1/8mph: 101.62
1000'ET: 9.768
1/4ET: 11.527
1/4mph: 128.97

Run #7 - ~29psi Rear suspension reverted back to how it was at Import Wars.. Pretty sure this is the 70th run on the 2.4L… in only 242 miles

R/T: .625
60': 1.731
330': 4.732
1/8ET: 7.125
1/8mph: 104.60
1000'ET: 9.187
1/4ET: 10.927
1/4mph: 130.03

Next steps… centerline cams, figure out how to safely up the timing… little tweaks for now. Maybe make it back next Saturday? Or Turbopalooza!

[DaveSkrab]

Awesome JT! Keep up the good work!

[22shelby]

NICE few more 10 under the belt! im bummed i didnt go, that dam fpr oring finally went on me and now im fight'n it again. i think ima get myself a billit and run remote mouint reg this time.

[Ondonti]

Do you have any base timing or is 10 and 12 degrees total timing? What fuel?
If you get to the point where you see no gains I would knock the timing back. I don't see how you could be at that point with 12 degrees though

I know I did screw up my spark maps, race a bike and couldn't do anything but run even. Found out i was missing 10 degrees of timing, car seemed to gain 100hp.
But then in the old days i remember adding 4 degrees on the dyno, probably losing hp overall but a darn peak in the graph tricked me into just reading the number and not lookign at the graph.

I would say it sucks that your 1/8th mph didnt show up on the first 12 deg run.

21-24 degrees on a 4 valve head with 8ish compression and 30psi on C16 or E85 is where all the quickest 3000gt's are running their timing Thats above 5000 rpms and they often add a few degrees near 7000.
I think those are perfect cars to follow after with your setup depending on the fuel you are running.

For now I went with 26 degrees @ 32psi load level (320kpa at my elevation) since I have a slower burning 2 valve head on E70 fuel. Maybe a bit too aggressive with the E70. Heck, I ran 46 degrees @ 20psi on my built motor on the dyno......eeek. Of course I gained no hp and probably helped accelerate headgasket poppage.

Ahhhhhhhhhh why post your darn spark map and then not make it clear that is your total timing

[BadAssPerformance]

12° total... 110 octane

No knock sensor, kinda shy with adding timing

[Ondonti]

Dang. I think you should get that thing on the dyno and dial in the timing.
I had no knock sensor and I went with "bonehead" instead of shy. I still never broke my built motor, just plugs!.

Now that I have control, I feel more of your antisocial tuning disorder. When I was scaling my timing map I thought....wow, i can actually remove timing as boost gets higher and not lose off boost performance.............what a concept!

I don't think your driving is consistent enough to make good guesses on timing. Ive got a mitsu knock sensor and want to use it but I am sorta complacent thinking "its still quick without optimized timing"

I would prefer dialing in timing in each location until HP gains stop or hp drops, then reel back timing a degree or 3. As long as you have sufficent octane, HP gains will "stop" long before knock starts in a good turbo setup. This is a reason why your next shortblock should be 10 or 11:1 Pick up 50-100whp and bigtime spool without changing anything else. Or make a bigger turbo act like your 60-1.

8.5:1 deserves 50psi boost plus spray or its a waste
You can also try 100% meth injection on top of your favorite race fuel. Even 8 second cars are doing it.
My reason for using 100% meth is not octane, but the fact that methanol makes more hp/cfm of air. About 20% more. So any gasoline I displace with meth gains 20% of the proportion of meth to gasoline. I was running more methanol then I was gasoline as far as liquid goes! but it was only about 30% of my total fueling requirements. I think it helped allow some of my rubbish ridiculous timing idiocies since there was probably NO heat left in the intake charge.
Its pretty much a way of running methanol without having to drain and flush your fuel system everytime you drive it.

[Aries_Turbo]

id hook the knock sensor up to a small headphone amp and listen to the signal once you get to the optimization point.

Brian

[BadAssPerformance]

Dang. I think you should get that thing on the dyno and dial in the timing.

I don't think your driving is consistent enough to make good guesses on timing.

I'm not a dyno fan, more of a track tuning kinda guy...

130mph on almost every run is not consistent enough?

Interesting info on the meth. Its still a street car tho, so still like to keep it simple.

[BadAssPerformance]

id hook the knock sensor up to a small headphone amp and listen to the signal once you get to the optimization point.

Brian

Interesting... how?

[turboshad]

Interesting... how?

Are you F'in kidding me JT?

The knock sensor/headphone thing I made for my car was key to me tuning my map and knowing for sure that it was safe. I think you would be pleasently suprised with the power just waiting for you.

Halfway down this post. It is my best tuning mod short of the WB.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=50

[BadAssPerformance]

I thought I had seen that somewhere! We gotta make that a KC article!

[Aries_Turbo]

here is a good way too. brent just posted it in his thread though ive seen it in the past.

http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0353

Brian

[Skibbe]

8.5:1 deserves 50psi boost plus spray or its a waste

Damn, I wonder what you'd suggest for my ~7.5:1? 100psi plus a couple blocks of C4?

[BadAssPerformance]

Damn, I wonder what you'd suggest for my ~7.5:1? 100psi plus a couple blocks of C4?

Glad I wasnt drinking when I read this... I'd need a new monitor

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks to Skibbe for filming!