BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[jckrieger]

On our 2.0L Neon the pulley was so tight we were bending the pulley before it was coming off the crank. We ended up heating the pulley up with "the hot wrench" before it would even budge. This was a factory pulley/installation! We actually honed the pulley to loosen up the fit so we could get it back together. I say make the clearance so you need to heat the pulley up to ~300F before you can get it on. That seems to be the way the factory did it!

[Reaper1]

^^^Hmmm....you mean engineers sometimes think the same! LOL

JT, for some odd reason I was thinking the crank was a tapered fit. If it is a straight shaft, then I beleive that if you use a *little* blue locktite, you may find that helps.

But, if it doesn't give you any more problems with the current fix, then screw it!

[turbovanman²]

I think press fit crank pulleys are a dumb idea. I guess if you ever pull it apart, you should think about getting a keyway machined into the crank,

Or if you still have issues, maybe use the flywheel?

[Reaper1]

^^Why? The only thing that makes it *bad* in THIS case is that he uses it to time the engine. In most other cases the pulley has no other function but to drive accessories. You don't need a key to do that as a good press fit will be moer than adequate to cunteract the force put on it under normal conditions.

Now, press fit CAM pullies(as in Ford Focus)....THAT is a stupid idea!!!

[WickedShelby88]

Pretty much "ALL" pulleys that have ever had function as timing or an external balancer on any engine ever designed use a light press fit AND a keyway. Subaru, Porsche, chevy, Mopar, Ford, etc. etc. So that said I would think since a timing device is used in conjunction with accessory drive in this case it would be mandated to machine in for a keyway as well as the light press just like the factory would of done it if there was timing involved.. IE the timing belt or crank pulley. just a thought. honduh is the only one I had to deal with that needed heat for the bolt, then YES the neon engines required you to heat the pulley to remove it with their special puller also available in the loaner tool section of zono for cheap.

[BadAssPerformance]

On our 2.0L Neon the pulley was so tight we were bending the pulley before it was coming off the crank. We ended up heating the pulley up with "the hot wrench" before it would even budge. This was a factory pulley/installation! We actually honed the pulley to loosen up the fit so we could get it back together. I say make the clearance so you need to heat the pulley up to ~300F before you can get it on. That seems to be the way the factory did it!

I think I mentioned this already but I could not get the pulley hub onto the crank when I got it I thought the crank bolt was starting to strip even, so I did bore it a little on the lathe and went a little far, no slop, but no press.. then welded 3 bumps in it which would not go on so I ground those down till they were a press fit... but I think there probably was not enough surface area? Who knows... if it moves again, I'll probably but a set screw in the end of the hub going into the crank...

[turbovanman²]

^^Why? The only thing that makes it *bad* in THIS case is that he uses it to time the engine. In most other cases the pulley has no other function but to drive accessories. You don't need a key to do that as a good press fit will be moer than adequate to cunteract the force put on it under normal conditions.

Now, press fit CAM pullies(as in Ford Focus)....THAT is a stupid idea!!!

True but press fit for a crank pulley is still a dumb idea. Remember, you are driving belts off it so there is some torque/twisting motion involved.

[8valves]

True but press fit for a crank pulley is still a dumb idea. Remember, you are driving belts off it so there is some torque/twisting motion involved.

True, but aren't wheel bearing under a similar stress, and they're pressed? I always have to torch the heck out of the hubs to get the old ones out on my old Charger and the Daytona.

[BadAssPerformance]

Took it out to cruising for a test drive last night and ran it thru 2nd gar and up a tad into 3rd and it ran a solid 23psi at 11.5:1 a/f and it pulled about as strong as it ever has. Bolted the slicks on today, ready to go to Grove Tuesday

[contraption22]

I dont know if it is this way in the FSM, but I know it is common practice to heat up the 2.0/2.4 crank pulleys to remove and install them.

JT, I am wondering if by honing yours, you made it too loose.

[BadAssPerformance]

I did the first time for sure... the current press was a result of welding and re-cutting on a lathe. Checked it today its still dead on

[turbovanman²]

True, but aren't wheel bearing under a similar stress, and they're pressed? I always have to torch the heck out of the hubs to get the old ones out on my old Charger and the Daytona.

Not really, the hub is pressed onto the bearing but the hub is driven, not the bearing. If the hub moves on the bearing, which it really can't as you have the axle nut squeezing it all together at 150 ft/lbs, big deal,

[dodgeshadowchik]

so i got great news!

as fan club president... thought i'd pass this along:
The Z broke the 11-sec barrier! 11.87 @ 120 to be exact!!

WOOOHHOOOO!!!!
*waits for JT to hit me for updating this before him*

[cordes]

That's great news for sure.

[contraption22]

Awesome! Congrats, JT!

[2.216VTurbo]

Good news for JT and a burn all in one post

[BadAssPerformance]

so i got great news!

as fan club president... thought i'd pass this along:
The Z broke the 11-sec barrier! 11.87 @ 120 to be exact!!

WOOOHHOOOO!!!!
*waits for JT to hit me for updating this before him*

Thanks there Prez! ...and I'd never hit ya!

Thanks, everyone, it feels good to have the car back to where it ran with the 2.2L... No complaints about 11's off the trailer... I knew it was a good run when I had to shift into 4th at ~108mph

Something is effed with the shifter or trans tho, not even I can miss 2nd 3 in a row! run recap below

___Run1 ___ 23psi
R/T - .312
60' - 1.894 (spun)
330' - 5.168
1/8 - 7.772
MPH - 96.02
1000' - 9.990
1/4 - 11.872
MPH - 120.33

___Run2___22psi
R/T - .206
60' - 1.782 (spun thru 1st)
330' - 5.335 (missed 2nd)
1/8 - 8.038
MPH - 93.39
1000' - 10.299
1/4 - 12.217
MPH - 118.07

__Run3___21psi (see a trend?)
R/T - .305
60' - 1.808 (spun thru 1st)
330' - 5.528 (missed 2nd)
1/8 - 8.296
MPH - 91.02
1000' - 10.603
1/4 - 12.564
MPH - 115.32

___Run4___20psi___rode 3rd out to the limiter to confirm 6800rpm is 109mph
R/T - .838 (solo run)
60' - 1.844 (spun thru 1st)
330' - 5.530 (missed 2nd)
1/8 - 8.352
MPH - 89.48
1000' - 10.694
1/4 - 12.692 (off limiter in 3rd)
MPH - 109.52

[dodgeshadowchik]

cool!! thanks for posting up the breakdowns of the runs!

[contraption22]

Did you keep turning the boost down to try to get some traction, or was it loosing boost somewhere?

[BadAssPerformance]

boost was lowering on its own... gotta check for vacuum and exhaust leaks.