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Thread: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

  1. #1821
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    .... THEN try to squeeze soem 26" rubber in there
    Now your talkin!!!!

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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    LOL, Yeah, I think thats long overdue. When I first got the current set of 24.5's is when it first started running 10's and they worked well. Then a few too many shitty tracks and tons of wheel spin and they do not work like they used to

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  4. #1824
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    M&H Tires strictly states "do not pre these tires" ... I VHT'd my old set before I got these, and the next trip to teh track they got gooey and were hooking... until the sidewall of the left let go That was expensive, not sure I wanna gamble

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  5. #1825
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Many of the materials listed above also are not good to inhale.
    Erowid says different
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  6. #1826
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by 135sohc View Post
    I was pricing out a rebuild for the 413 and its downright scary how cheap and readily available most everything is... just about everything from the oil pump to the rear planetary can be replaced with new parts for $1000 or less.
    I know,
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  7. #1827
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Holy shitt JT, nice MPH,

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    I've done that... just needs to be a damn good track, not enough suspension or tire under it now

    I made a check list a couple pages back... got the 89 k-member/LCAs from Turbodave, just need to get some bushings from Johnny and get it on the car... oh yeah, need to order the Koni inserts for coil over conversion.... THEN try to squeeze soem 26" rubber in there
    26's, hehehehe, awesome.

    What K-member do you have now, the sub strut? Why do you think running the dual pivot will change anything?
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  8. #1828
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by 135sohc View Post
    I was pricing out a rebuild for the 413 and its downright scary how cheap and readily available most everything is... just about everything from the oil pump to the rear planetary can be replaced with new parts for $1000 or less.
    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    I know,
    But if anyone is feeling lazy there was one with a RMVB in the classies, that sounded built fairly solid for $600. Dunno if it's 10s solid.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  9. #1829
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    Holy shitt JT, nice MPH,

    26's, hehehehe, awesome.

    What K-member do you have now, the sub strut? Why do you think running the dual pivot will change anything?
    Thanks, its gone 137mph, but no where near using it yet...

    Its got the stock 87 stub-strut K-member in it and although it does have urethane bushings, by design, it allows the LCA to move (fore aft) quite a bit during launch yet, also by design, restricts jounce/rebound movement. With the 89 dual pivot LCA I will run stiffer bushings to control fore/aft LCA movement better but allow more jounce/rebound freedom... The coil overs will probably help a lot more, but I figure if I need to get it aligned, might as well do thsi as well...

    JT
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  10. #1830
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    Thanks, its gone 137mph, but no where near using it yet...

    Its got the stock 87 stub-strut K-member in it and although it does have urethane bushings, by design, it allows the LCA to move (fore aft) quite a bit during launch yet, also by design, restricts jounce/rebound movement. With the 89 dual pivot LCA I will run stiffer bushings to control fore/aft LCA movement better but allow more jounce/rebound freedom... The coil overs will probably help a lot more, but I figure if I need to get it aligned, might as well do thsi as well...
    I would have thought the sub strut design with poly bushings would not let the wheel move for and aft, it seems the dual pivot will let the arm move more so than the sub strut.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  11. #1831
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    I would have thought the sub strut design with poly bushings would not let the wheel move for and aft, it seems the dual pivot will let the arm move more so than the sub strut.
    Oh, it moves, especially on launce when fighting for traction.

    Maybe I was not clear in my explanation...

    Stub strut - requires compliant bushings to articulate jounce/rebound

    Dual pivot - does not require compliant bushings to articulate jounce/rebound

    Therefore a dual pivot can be made to move less fore-aft with stiffer bushings than a stub strut can use.

    JT
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  12. #1832
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    Oh, it moves, especially on launce when fighting for traction.


    Therefore a dual pivot can be made to move less fore-aft with stiffer bushings than a stub strut can use.
    Or with bearings.....

  13. #1833
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    There's a steel tube in the middle of the bushings that doesn't let the arm move fore and aft, even if it looks like it's held by the rubber visible each side.

    ---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:04 AM ----------

    You know what though, I wonder what the stub strut would be like if you replaced the rubber with a bearing and shims, maybe even layered inner tube rubber and fender washers, and tightened it very tight.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  14. #1834
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222 View Post
    There's a steel tube in the middle of the bushings that doesn't let the arm move fore and aft, even if it looks like it's held by the rubber visible each side.
    The steel tube merely is a comptression limiter for bolt clamp/stetch and controlled pre-compression height of the bushings, it does not limit LCA movement as they are suspended entirely by the bushings.

    You know what though, I wonder what the stub strut would be like if you replaced the rubber with a bearing and shims, maybe even layered inner tube rubber and fender washers, and tightened it very tight.
    So make the stub strut solid? The LCA would not pivot. Think about it... the front LCA bushing and stub strut pivot along different axes so it would bind.

    ---------- Post added at 10:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    Or with bearings.....
    Definitely the way to do it if it were a race car

    JT
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  15. #1835
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    ---------- Post added at 10:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ----------

    [/COLOR]

    Definitely the way to do it if it were a race car
    You trying to convince yourself that it's not a race car is like me trying to convince myself I'm not balding.

    We both should just accept it!

  16. #1836
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    You trying to convince yourself that it's not a race car is like me trying to convince myself I'm not balding.

    We both should just accept it!
    LOL... The roads around here suck so bearings would be brutal. Maybe if it were gutted and lightened like a race car it wouldnt be as brutal?

    JT
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  17. #1837
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    So make the stub strut solid? The LCA would not pivot. Think about it... the front LCA bushing and stub strut pivot along different axes so it would bind.
    That's why I said stick a bearing in there too, a flat needle bearing or something, thrust bearing..

    edit: Hmmm actually would you need 2 thrust bearings one on the back, one on the front....

    Or alternatively... teflon washers tween fender washers...

    Got me thinking I miiiiight try something on my van along these lines...

    edit2: Oh, better be SS washers with teflon washers, they'll carve up quick if there's any rust.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

  18. #1838
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    actually, bearings should make it ride smoother, cause there will be no resistance to the up and down movement of the arm. fore and aft will be darn near solid due to the stiffer poly bushings anyway.

    ive always wanted to try the rear wheel bearings and races to replace the front LCA bushings.

    or something like that. make up a seal too and use stainless so its weatherproof.

    brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  19. #1839
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    in fact, i think i remember a GRM article where they put roller bearings on the front bars of a porsche 914 and were pleasantly surprised at the ride quality.

    Brian

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman
    This one is easy, I have myself to blame, I rush things, don't pay attention to gauges when I should, change to much stuff at once then expect miracles, the list is endless.

  20. #1840
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo View Post
    make up a seal too and use stainless so its weatherproof.
    Off the top of my head, a inner tie rod boot might work.
    DD1: '02 T&C Ltd, 3.8 AWD. DD2: '15 Versa Note SV, replacing.. DDx: '14 Versa Note SV << freshly killded :( ....... Projects: '88 Voyager 3.0, Auto with shift kit, timing advance, walker sound FX muffler on 15" pumpers wrapped in 215/65/R15 H rated Nexens.... and a '95 phord escort wagon PnP head << Both may need to go :( ..... I like 3.0s ... so??? ... stop looking at me like I've got two heads!

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