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Thread: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

  1. #3101
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Breaking an axle must put you back to thinking about what you are giving up on your E.T. for a car that still breaks. I think you of all cars would benefit from driveline preload with a staging brake. If cars that are lighter with less power on the same tire will destroy axles on the hit then you don't have a lot of positive things to look forward to except hoping your nice axles save you. I am only going to clutch my way out of bogs in the future rather than shockload my driveline and hope it holds together. I think the only difficult thing with that is cutting a good light. Thats why its easier with a staging brake.

    Its just 1 decent pass but it sounds like your ignition system is definitely not as robust as it was the previous years.
    something to be said about that

  2. #3102
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Update!!!!!! New best MPH! Come on JT!

    James Reeves - Reeves Racing
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  3. #3103
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Not really related, but I did a customers MB last week with new NGK plugs, came back yesterday with a miss fire. Pulled the plugs and found white powder around the base, fit new plug and misfire went away. FWIW

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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by forcedfedmopar View Post
    Not really related, but I did a customers MB last week with new NGK plugs, came back yesterday with a miss fire. Pulled the plugs and found white powder around the base, fit new plug and misfire went away. FWIW
    Hmm... Wonder if they made a bad batch at the factory

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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Well, bittersweet runs at the Nats...

    Friday

    First time run, thought I would try the 2-step... its on a small tire, right? Nope. SNAP the inner DS tripod joint bad.. pics to come.

    Swapped in the spare set of axles....

    Second time run, left soft, low boost, rode it through 3rd gear, then switched to high boost, watched it climb but then it turned into a handful and had to watch where I was headed as I was in the right lane trying to keep it from drifting left out of the groove. Low boost was at ~23psi and high boost was over 3bar (30.4psi). Was too busy watching where the car was going to look at gauge and forgot to put GoPro on. Granny shifting and all, it ran clean, no breakup! Previously posted time below

    R/t .159
    60' 1.886
    330' 5.073
    1/8 7.464
    mph 105.1
    1000' 9.486
    1/4 11.139
    mph 137.88

    Lowered both low and high boost settings...

    Quote Originally Posted by Reeves View Post
    Update!!!!!! New best MPH! Come on JT!
    Saturday started out went better as Reeves noted! We couldn't hear the call and was late to the lanes for STICK class but they let me run after the FAST class... This time I left and switched to high boost as I shifted 2nd and the boost built slow, but by third gear it looked to be about the right spacing to be maybe 5psi over 30psi on the 30lb gauge, the most I've run with this combo. Granny shifting again, but it pulled hard on high boost and again pulled left... new best MPH, picked up 34mph in th second 1/8th...

    R/t .137
    60' 1.841
    330' 4.951
    1/8 7.231
    mph 108.79
    1000' 9.151
    1/4 10.741
    mph 142.72

    After this run, looked at the data log and log stopped before 4th gear, but in the top of 3rd it creeped up to 12:1 at 92% DC

    Turned the boost down again... and lined up for the next time run and, KaBOOM! The OBX diff tried to come out I wanted to put a Quaife in it, but not this soon!

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    JT
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  6. #3106
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Wow congrats and bummer at the same time. If you could get that thing off the line you would be knocking on 9's.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Thanks, yep, true story!

    I tried to post pics, but apparently that's not working

    JT
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  8. #3108
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Wow. That was exciting to read, but it's a real downer about the axles and diff. 142mph is really moving along.

  9. #3109
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    That thing is flying on the top end JT!!! Would you say The OBX held up well for what it was?
    Bryan
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    I doubt he's even sure it's the OBX fault yet?

    Hey, the pulling to the left thing. I'm having my old Quaife rebuilt for the same thing. Put in a new Quaife, problem gone so far. Old Quaife was torn apart by QuaifeUSA and it was all galled up inside.

    Pat Culkin (Big Deal) had the same problem.

    James Reeves - Reeves Racing
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  11. #3111
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Nice mph bro, and Really nice to see you back in the 10's!

    Robert Mclellan
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  12. #3112
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Maybe I will keep adding the Lucas breakin to my transmissions....


    I still think setting a very low 2 step rpm and clutching out of a bog will make axles live near forever. I would rather change clutches on a regular PLANNED basis from wear than get shutdown randomly. More aggressive would just be full boogey but clutch in very gently. I tried this a few weeks ago. When you mess that up you break. Even preloading with a staging brake I am sure it will do damage if you have too much momentum and power available when the clutch fully bites. Carbon clutches will not bite like this....
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  13. #3113
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by black86glhs View Post
    That thing is flying on the top end JT!!! Would you say The OBX held up well for what it was?
    I'm not sure it broke... Of you could see the pics I posted if looks more like the case separated like something got into the diff teeth and pushed the diff out like reeves had...

    Quote Originally Posted by Reeves View Post
    I doubt he's even sure it's the OBX fault yet?

    Hey, the pulling to the left thing. I'm having my old Quaife rebuilt for the same thing. Put in a new Quaife, problem gone so far. Old Quaife was torn apart by QuaifeUSA and it was all galled up inside.

    Pat Culkin (Big Deal) had the same problem.
    Interesting... Will take it apart and see what's in it...

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    Nice mph bro, and Really nice to see you back in the 10's!
    Thanks man!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Maybe I will keep adding the Lucas breakin to my transmissions....


    I still think setting a very low 2 step rpm and clutching out of a bog will make axles live near forever. I would rather change clutches on a regular PLANNED basis from wear than get shutdown randomly. More aggressive would just be full boogey but clutch in very gently. I tried this a few weeks ago. When you mess that up you break. Even preloading with a staging brake I am sure it will do damage if you have too much momentum and power available when the clutch fully bites. Carbon clutches will not bite like this....
    The twin disk is really hard to slip and most certainly adds to the damage. The 2step idea could help but the way mine is setup off a floor clutch switch instead of a top position clutch switch you can't slip it much before the revs climb...

    JT
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  14. #3114
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    [QUOTE=BadAssPerformance;1051733]I'm not sure it broke... Of you could see the pics I posted if looks more like the case separated like something got into the diff teeth and pushed the diff out like reeves had...QUOTE]Good to know, but I wasn't implying it broke. Just curious if it is holding up to the abuse or not. If you haven't taken it apart yet, then we will have to wait to find out.
    Bryan
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  15. #3115
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    The twin disk is really hard to slip and most certainly adds to the damage. The 2step idea could help but the way mine is setup off a floor clutch switch instead of a top position clutch switch you can't slip it much before the revs climb...
    Trying to cut a good light (causing impatience) probably makes it doubly hard to slip the clutch. If you can avoid worrying then that would be nice.
    I think it would still work. As long as you are slipping the clutch while revs climb you are absorbing the potential shockload in the form of heat. Rising revs would possibly help.

    Floor switch would make a staging brake setup difficult but not the idea of clutching out of a bog. My idea of clutching out of the bog is to never actually bog but act like a torque converter with variable stall. If you can still get the slicks to spin than its not holding you back. You could have more power on tap than when the clutch is fully engaged and rpms drop.

    Your car is pretty nasty and since its heavy I think its totally reasonable to treat it like a race car where you expect to inspect/replace the clutch disc on a regular basis. Its not like you are having to inspect your custom gearbox internals every week like SFWD hondas. We probably expect more out of our parts than we should without regular inspection. From your failure you honestly might need to also check the box more often than when it breaks. That is not a fun thing but racers get motivated by all the wasted effort/time when a bad gearbox keeps them out of a competitive race. When its a hobby for us I know its way harder to justify that upkeep. I will NOT want to do that.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  16. #3116
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Get a universal clutch switch for an aftermarket cruise control and set it for the top of the clutch travel. That's how I have mine setup. I use a ball chain attached to a limit switch. By adjusting the tension I can control when it turns off which I try to set for right where the clutch is engaged.

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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

    Brent, good thoughts, I think the clutch might have to step up to save parts... and compared to MB's DSM, these trans are a bit quicker to take out for inspection LOL

    DJ, I like your thinking and when I put it on the floor originally I never really thought about having to slip the clutch so much, it was just an easier place to put the switch LOL... I have an array of OEM clutch switches from the jyard so I need to see if one of those works. ,... OR, If I wanted to try it, I have a button in series with the floor switch so I could just short the floor switch and just stay on the button until the car is moving. But really I'm thinking I need to just forget about the 2-step for now and really really slip the fudge outta the clutch

    Sent the axles back today. The DS outer joint also had some play in it. Pics to come...

    Also, pulled the plugs (Autolites) and although it ran clean (no break up) all weekend, it was idling like crap before the last run. Was shut off soon after the trans broke, so they did see some RPM from the burnout. In general they looked clean except #3 was a little darker, so maybe it was weak or has a microscopic crack? Hmmm... pics when I can

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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

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    JT
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!


    JT
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    Re: BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!


    JT
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