LOL.. its like "tuning for dummies"
JT
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Yeah, no doubt.. they should spell it FA$T
JT
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OK... the car started having issues at the Nats... ran slower on 24psi and 15psi.. WTF!? Lower vacuum at idle, rough as heck down the track... Thinking bad valves, I borrowed a leakage tester .... It barely started up and then all of a sudden it ran flawlessly!?... I had it backed into the garage so went and turned it around so it was pointing in to work on it. Check leak down and compression on all 4... cylinder number 2 seems to have more than the others but not terrible. So I fired it up and watched to see if the O2 sensor was reading (I think it might be bad) and to get some heat into the sensor I cracked the throttle hard a couple times and it ran like crap again and died.... I let it cool off then went back and put #1 to TDC and then noticed that my crank trigger was off... Doh! I guess the damn pulley spun somehow... not sure if that's all that happened at the Nats or not, and hope nothing got hurt running the timing that far off... I took the pulley into work and welded a bead inside it and cut it back out with a boring bar on the lathe to make it more of a press fit. I put it back together and it would not start. I triple checked the crank and cam references and nothing. So I thought it was cuz I changed the crank pickup location so I messed with he cam sensor and nothing... OK, the eDist has LEDs that tell when the crank and can cycle, and those lit up when they were supposed to... then for the heck of it I looked around in the program and saw that the firing order was not set, so I set it but it didn't seem to take, so I looked at the other parameters and for some reason it did not list the number of cylinders, WTF? So I set it to 4 and tried it and it fired right up... *DER* I have no idea how that field was blanked out!? Whatever, it runs. I have to set the timing now but then it should be good to go hopefully!
JT
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Great news JT, glad you figured it out!
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Thanks, I hope so! I got the timing set and now just need to but teh radials on it for a spirited drive around the neighborhood... tomorrow
JT
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Stupid flux capacitors, you just can't trust those things...
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You didn't key the crank pulley?
The only resistance is the altrernator, a press fit should be ok?
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Wait, what, woah! Did I miss something? Explain JT. Is your pulley that drives the alternator the one with the mag pick ups for the Stand Alone and it's just pressed on? Every time the Alt cycles to charge it 's gonna want to spin on the crank like a millionth of a turn, multiply by a half million cycles and you're 180 out...
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Depends on how tight the press fit is. What materials are being joined? By comparing their expansion rates it should be possible to determine any loss made by expansion of dissimilar metals. I'd personally go for something where you have to heat up the pulley to around 275-300*F to make it loose enough to remove. Of course if you DO have to remove it this heat *could* damage the main seal if you're not careful.
Of course you could avoid this with a simple key, but that solution also has its flaws...such as adding stress risers to the part and the removal of material. I don't think it'd be much of an issue though seeing how little force is being applied to the part and for the short durations.
You might consider a bit of anerobic sealer , but it WILL make it an SOB to get it back off and it WILL require heat and a good puller.
Just some thoughts for ya!
The alternator puts that kinda force on it? sounds like I need to slack that belt up a tad!
I have an ebay knock-off of an Unorthodox UD pulley. Steel hub that the AL pulley (an now also the mag wheel) bolt to. So steel on steel.
It would not go on when I got it (did I mention it was a cheap knock off?) so I bored it out a tad and it was loose so I added 3 welds inside and ground those down with the dremel until it was a light press fit. That slipped, or skipped 120° or 240° maybe?
In the recent fix, I welded a continuous bead aound the ID and re-bored it to a light press fit which went on way harder than it used to... I'll monitor it better now that I know what to expect, easy to do with a timing light
JT
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
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www.badassperformance.com
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Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
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"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
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...or a little paint on the bolt and the pulley
Excellent idea on the paint mark, that would show it unless the bolt turns with it
BTW, drove it last night, it runs fine again.. no real change to open it up, but everything seems OK again!
JT
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SDAC-Chicago President
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
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Man, if the bolt turns with it you've got something REALLY wrong! LOL. Blue Locktite FTW!!
That's something else you could try...use a little anerobic on the shaft when you install the pulley. Once it sets it *should* be nice and affixed to its position.
Congrats on driving it again! Now, when are you gonna make the trip down to Florida?! I want a ride!!!
Since the bolt clamps the pully hub in place, it had to turn at least a little to allow the hub to rotate...
The only problem with all solid motor mounts... sh!t vibrating loose.
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
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