BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[cordes]

Interesting... Alcohol sensor?

This is really making me want to plump a second tank for race gas...

With your vehicles weight I don't think you can afford to plump up anything at this point.

[Shadow]

With your vehicles weight I don't think you can afford to plump up anything at this point.

lol I was just about to drop a post about all of the benefits of running an up-front fuel cell when I got that!

[Ondonti]

Flex fuel sensor and MS2 (not sure if you need a device like Zietronix in the middle) should take care of fuel inconsistencies. I know they use them a lot out there and Zietronix is currently sold out again. My E70 fuel was very consistent because it was illegal to mix more then that at high altitude but it would sometimes drop a bit in alcohol content. That error was on the safe side of things.

If you have to do manual tune changes and based on beaker tests then it might be too annoying. I found 91 octane and 34gph of 100% meth pretty potent even with my timing advanced 8 degrees over stock n/a timing...but the motor was 7:1. 8:1 and reasonable timing should still do great. Cars seem to pick up a good 20-30% more power potential over pump gas using basic water/meth (not what I use). 16 valve motor on pump gas and good turbo setup should be good enough to make 500+ and 650 on methanol or just water/meth spray.

That does mean sacrificing low rpm HP and ramping up power as rpms increase so you can maximize power based on your octane. Buying race gas simply to get that big bang grunt at peak torque might not make much difference in your E.T.s depending on how your car is setup. I see no use for big torque numbers in a drag setup. I would rather have a more linear powerband that perfectly matched my available traction in each gear and MPH.

I have seen some pretty sick dyno charts of tuning examples that show you how extreme you can take pump gas tuning (at the sacrifice of low rpm HP).

[BadAssPerformance]

Interesting... might have to thimk more about a pump gas tune for more than getting from track to track

[Ondonti]

BTW those HP numbers are conservative. I know I have seen PT6262 650awhp pump from "English Racing" (maybe top of the line evo shop out there) Evos and those same cars will run low 700's on E85 or race gas from what I remember. That means the are almost maxing the turbo out on pump gas. These are not people who try to share info and the owners are purchasing turnkey cars and would be no help to talk to. My guess would be that Race gas or E85 setup has much bigger low rpm HP numbers but even for Evo's low rpms HP can just cause traction problems.

I know Mellon from Mellontuning has ran his stock motor evo into the 30's for boost with a 35r on pump gas. Per turbo dodge knowledge, this should be impossible, especially with such a big turbo. Peak Hp numbers make sales so these numbers might often reflect the desire to profit more then a desire for performance. Mellons stock motor setup was wicked fast though, outpacing

Here is an example of him making 600whp with a built block on pump gas and 32psi. His old forum (racevideoforum) seems down so a lot of the good info out there is probably lost.
One of his youtube videos he races a customer's car that makes 720whp on E70 fuel (and bigger turbo) and it seems like a much larger gap then peak numbers would suggest, probably because the E70 car has more grunt and AWD roll racing is not so worried about traction at that HP level.

[BadAssPerformance]

Finally got a minute to post an update...

Completed:
-Installed Aeromotive fuel pump controller
-Changed fuel filters (will post pics of collection)
-Installed fuel level sender in cell
-Installed fuel level guage
-Installed volt guage (no this doesn't measure how many GM Electromotive cars you pass)
-Sent last fall's broken axle to DSS

Still need to:
-test all of the above
-swap in new 5pt harness
-troubleshoot intermittent speedo
-change oil
-find place to tap oil temp
-mod crancase vent / catch can
etc
etc
etc

[contraption22]

Man, you sure have to do a lot of stuff to turn your street car into a street car.

[Pat]

You forgot to list AC install.

[BadAssPerformance]

Man, you sure have to do a lot of stuff to turn your street car into a street car.

LOL, more like adding creature comforts back in... some things I didn't think I would miss that I actually do. Like a volt gauge, who woulda thought I would want to know what the voltage is?

You forgot to list AC install.

My girlfriend doesn't even care if there is AC in it

[Pat]

My girlfriend doesn't even care if there is AC in it

Maybe that's because she plans on riding with me.

[BadAssPerformance]

Maybe that's because she plans on riding with me.

LOL, she is dodgeshadowchik... but I meant she doesn't even have it in her Talon

[turboshad]

AC is for wimps. One of these is all you need....

[Pat]

LOL, she is dodgeshadowchik... but I meant she doesn't even have it in her Talon

I know, I know. Just messing with ya!!!!

[Reaper1]

It wouldn't matter if MB was riding in a car with A/C or not...it's STILL going to be HOT in there!

[BadAssPerformance]

AC is for wimps. One of these is all you need....

Hell yeah

I know, I know. Just messing with ya!!!!

I know

It wouldn't matter if MB was riding in a car with A/C or not...it's STILL going to be HOT in there!

Yep

[Reeves]

man, you sure have to do a lot of stuff to turn your street car into a street car.

lmao

[Ondonti]

Man, you sure have to do a lot of stuff to turn your street car into a street car.

Better then just scrapping a good car to use something lighter. I think with a EEK car, your car is a street car as long as it is heavier then the lightest option out there. Feeling comfortable with minimal weight added is nice. I see myself only adding weight to my car in the future.

[ATaylorRacing]

AC is for wimps. One of these is all you need....

That is the EXACT one in Matchbox....but I cut off the plug and hard wired it.

- - - Updated - - -

Old Matchbox is 1995 lbs when driven with the 215/60/14 dot Mickeys....only 1945 with the Hoosier 20.5x7x13 road race slicks....and it is street driven.

[Ondonti]

Whats this I hear about....axles

[BadAssPerformance]

Yep

For last week's racing, SDAC-23 (Muncie) & Monster Mopar (Indy), I upped the tire psi a little and left "softer" slipping the clutch instead of using the 2-step.

At Muncie - 6 passes, no breakage, maybe technique, but probably more due to average traction

At Indy - 2 passes Friday, no breakage, definitely better traction/prep trying to slip a twin disk is difficult. Rain Saturday.

First pass Sunday, broke at launch, driver side axle outer CV. This was the 9th pass on this set. this set also has a different temper on the CV tulip/stubs. Good news, the end didn't snap off, new failure mode, first ever outer CV for DSS (or any) axles in this car.

Second pass Sunday, swapped in fresh set of axles (standard heat treat) broke on launch. Have not taken them out yet, but guessing similar PS inner stub. Will take it out this weekend.

In my last conversation with DSS they recommended a larger spline diameter for the Diff end. Anyone know the spline size (diameter) of SRT-4 axles compares to our axles? I figure the quick 5-speed SRT-4's are heavier and making more power, just curious how those axles stack up?