BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[Reaper1]

I've been mulling over the different possibly processes to put splines on a shaft. I came up with a way to do it where no material is actually removed and it would actually make the metal in that area stronger.

Instead of cutting the splines out of the bar stock, why not do it like knurling or threads and squeeze them into shape? It would mean the metal would have to be annealed and also hot. Run it through a press that has the correct spline pattern on it by rolling it through 2 sets of teeth that act as gears as well as the die. Once the splines are made onto the shaft, then re-process the metal to the desired hardness and also do a surface hardening treatment, such as nitriding. If this can be done with something like 300M steel, then I think that is as close to bulletproof as can be expected with the stock diameter and spline count.

[shackwrrr]

I've been mulling over the different possibly processes to put splines on a shaft. I came up with a way to do it where no material is actually removed and it would actually make the metal in that area stronger.

Instead of cutting the splines out of the bar stock, why not do it like knurling or threads and squeeze them into shape? It would mean the metal would have to be annealed and also hot. Run it through a press that has the correct spline pattern on it by rolling it through 2 sets of teeth that act as gears as well as the die. Once the splines are made onto the shaft, then re-process the metal to the desired hardness and also do a surface hardening treatment, such as nitriding. If this can be done with something like 300M steel, then I think that is as close to bulletproof as can be expected with the stock diameter and spline count.

http://youtu.be/yJfgDiGKFpc

[Reaper1]

^^LOL Yeah! Something like that! I don't know what material they were using there, but I think that the material we would need for our application would require the heating process I described, but I could be wrong.

[BadAssPerformance]

I was trying to remember this morning, I'm pretty sure it was the short one also. I remember having to pull the other axe to beat the stub out of the diff.

It is probably in that thread where we discussed them breaking before.

Yeah, I had to pop it out that way too, LOL, came out easy tho.

I've been mulling over the different possibly processes to put splines on a shaft. I came up with a way to do it where no material is actually removed and it would actually make the metal in that area stronger.

Instead of cutting the splines out of the bar stock, why not do it like knurling or threads and squeeze them into shape? It would mean the metal would have to be annealed and also hot. Run it through a press that has the correct spline pattern on it by rolling it through 2 sets of teeth that act as gears as well as the die. Once the splines are made onto the shaft, then re-process the metal to the desired hardness and also do a surface hardening treatment, such as nitriding. If this can be done with something like 300M steel, then I think that is as close to bulletproof as can be expected with the stock diameter and spline count.

Or.... EDM a full radius spline with sperical slot ends and EDM the matching profile on the diff and wheel hubs too.

[BadAssPerformance]

Update... clutch is in, trans back together, backup axles in, car is on the ground... I think I need to reduce clutch travel a tad, Rob, how much reduction did you get with the offset hole you added to the fork lever?

[Reeves]

I know that question was directed at Rob, but I did the same thing and lengthened the clutch arm and it reduced it a lot. I have about .300" travel. But, I'm going to go a little more. The arm bottoms out on the aluminum boss where the cable goes through....which is actually a good thing as it keeps travel to a minimum, but I'm going to shorten the end of the arm a tad more to get a tad more throw. My DD clutch releases at .250" and full throw is at .330".

Pics here:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...l=1#post844666

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks, i rememebr seeing that now! So that amount of change reduced the throw too much?

[Reeves]

No, it worked out dang near perfect....but I'm getting a slight bit of drag on the staging rev limiter which is causing me to roll. The input shaft had got a little loose so I tightened it up figuring that was the cause, but no dice....so I'm going to make the clutch arm go up a touch higher and see what happens.

[Reaper1]

This mod also helps with pedal pressure. I had to do this when I ran the dual-diaphragm pressure plate so that I could have a somewhat tolerable pedal. Even that didn't help it that much.

[Shadow]

JT, you should still have all of the info that I forwarded to you for the clutch KC article. All info on travel ect should be there. If needs be I can forward it again, but from memory each 1/2" of length added to the arm = 1/16" throw? I'll dble check to be sure.

Just looked at my notes and it says 1" = 1/4"? Can't remember how that worked out, but in a nut shell, I installed the ACT PP and flywheel into a mock up trans and watched the PP as my bro moved the arm back and forth till we found the point to which the PP reached full extention (any further would = no more travel but you would be over extending the diaphram)

I then measured the factory set-up in the Charger and came to the conclusion I needed to add 2" to the arm to get it dead nuts on. When I looked at extending it, 2" would put it at a Bad location for using the second hole for the cable. (bad angle) So I went 1 1/2" knowing I had a bit of a window of operation to work with.

Worked flawlessly and still does. So I would say add 1 1/2" exactly the same way I did and it Should work the same, as the throw on that ACT set-up Should be comparable to the ACT SRT-4 single discs. (both work with the stock SRT-4 geometry)

[BadAssPerformance]

JT, you should still have all of the info that I forwarded to you for the clutch KC article. All info on travel ect should be there. If needs be I can forward it again, but from memory each 1/2" of length added to the arm = 1/16" throw? I'll dble check to be sure.

Cool, thanks, I still got it, forgot the throw was in there!

[STLShelbyZ]

Can't wait to see more vids Jason, thanks for the help on facebook too with my questions!

John

[turboshad]

JT, when you TIGed the bearing race on did you do anything special? Pre-heat, slow cool, filler material etc. Thx.

[135sohc]

Anyone gonna try/check Jacksons idea of drilling/tapping and adding some tiny button head screws to keep the race from pulling off ?

[turboshad]

I haven't seen or heard of this idea. I was going to machine some of the race off and put a snap ring groove on the shaft but if welding works that is waaaay easier.

[BadAssPerformance]

Can't wait to see more vids Jason, thanks for the help on facebook too with my questions!

John

I want to see more videos of it too! Always glad to help man, can't wait to see your Z!

JT, when you TIGed the bearing race on did you do anything special? Pre-heat, slow cool, filler material etc. Thx.

I tried to put as little heat into it as possible... my first attempt was a couple small tacks that broke quickly. The pic shown was my second attempt and has a few miles/track days on it. I used a little more heat and more filler rod (3702S maybe? whatever it was I used on the CM cage, I can double check) and larger beads than the original tacks. Did them in small steps, let air cool after each little bit added... seems to work? *crosses fingers*

Anyone gonna try/check Jacksons idea of drilling/tapping and adding some tiny button head screws to keep the race from pulling off ?

I would have if the tacks broke this time... BTW, I'll take credit for that one

[BadAssPerformance]

OK.. made a little progress...

-ACT twin disk in - lengthened clutch lever, not sure if needed
-Trans back together - same bronze pads for more miles/abuse
-Backup set of DSS axles in - old pair with broke one at DSS to be repaired
-Reeve's Racing scatter shield installed - my nuts feel safer already
-Low oil pressure light fixed - was a bad sender
-New 26" slicks ordered
-Will call to put insurance on it tomorrow!

[cordes]

Excellent news JT. I'm very glad to see that scatter shield in there.

[bakes]

whats the break in procedure for the act clutch?

[Shadow]

Prob the same as any clutch, 500 miles of stop and go with No "giving'er" till the end of the proceedure (this is especially important for ceramic clutches)