BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[BadAssPerformance]

You sure know how to break stuff....

For some reason every time I have drained the soup out of my 568 it has that same color. I can see brass, aluminum and even some darker (steel??) colored sludge that settles to the bottom of the drain bucket after a week or two.

Yep, its a talent, LOL

Yeah, it took a few times to drain all the aluminum bits out from the intermediate shaft bearing cutting into the case. Hard to see in the one pic but the 3-4 fork pads took a hit too. I'll continue to run them for developments sake

[turboshad]

My setup responded quit well to the 3.85 change. My thought was using as much of every gear as I can down the 1/4 and with my engine seeming to love the top end I figured the quicker I can get it there the better. With 24.5s I could still trap mid 140s in 4th gear. Time to man up on those shift points too

[Turbo3Iroc]

Looking at all 3, not sure the 3.77 step is worth it...

I was just saying if you can not find a set of 3.85's. I was lucky enough to stumble on a set when I was looking but they are a hard find today.

[turbovanman²]

It appears that the bearing backup plate bolt to the left of the input shaft (looking at the end of trans) worked itself out (aluminum threads came with it) and allowed the input shaft to push back causing less engagement (maybe 50%) between the reverse gear and input shaft. Pics to come

Damn, but your probably right, its wear and tear from being taken apart. I've stripped out and pulled out numerous threads on my old case. Heli-coiled and all was good.

Your the 5 speed breakage king, I am the auto breakage king, lol.

You were putting loctite on them right ?

I wonder if theres enough room to put a BHSCS from the backside/inside and make it act like a stud ? An entire end cap bearing plate like the older transmissions would go great lengths towards keeping things stiff and meshed... If Simon has even remembered those.

Yeah, but Shayne elected not to proceed with a new plate, so we'll see how his holds up soon, then maybe we can make something or maybe Lengel?

Would inserts give it more strength than just the bolts in aluminum? I'm no engineer but everything in aviation has inserts in it and similar conditions.

Yep, way more strength.

[Shadow]

My setup responded quit well to the 3.85 change. My thought was using as much of every gear as I can down the 1/4 and with my engine seeming to love the top end I figured the quicker I can get it there the better. With 24.5s I could still trap mid 140s in 4th gear. Time to man up on those shift points too

Couldn't agree more, when I backed off to 6500rpm shifts the Charger slowed down to 10.57, it really wanted 7500+ RPM all the way down the track!

[BadAssPerformance]

My setup responded quit well to the 3.85 change. My thought was using as much of every gear as I can down the 1/4 and with my engine seeming to love the top end I figured the quicker I can get it there the better. With 24.5s I could still trap mid 140s in 4th gear. Time to man up on those shift points too

Yep, I've been shifting at 7k so definitely leaving some more there...

OK, anyone got a 3.85:1 523 ring and pinion, please PM me!

[135sohc]

Someone here cut the center out of a 568 ring gear so it could be used with the OBX.

[BadAssPerformance]

That would be another option...

[cordes]

Wow JT. That's some damage for sure. Best of luck on the 3.85 FD 523 ring and pinion. Those were minivan only right?

I think my prediction one custom ring gears may be off, but it can't be long with how quickly some of this stuff is drying up.

[135sohc]

minivan, daytona and lebaron I believe.

[cordes]

minivan, daytona and lebaron I believe.

Interesting. I didn't think that they put the 3.85FD in the Daytona or Lebaron without going to the 568. Or could that FD be stolen from a 543?

[135sohc]

A few times in the past when I was inquiring about different 523's listed for sale the sellers in multiple cases stated they were from N/A G & J body cars.

I dont feel like looking for it right now but if you look in the 90 & 91 parts catalogs and read through the lines it will tell you what FD ratio was used with what respective car/engine option as a final ruling.

[cordes]

A few times in the past when I was inquiring about different 523's listed for sale the sellers in multiple cases stated they were from N/A G & J body cars.

I dont feel like looking for it right now but if you look in the 90 & 91 parts catalogs and read through the lines it will tell you what FD ratio was used with what respective car/engine option as a final ruling.

Very cool. You learn something so often it's nearly a daily thing.

[Reeves]

very cool. You learn something so often it's nearly a daily thing.

lol!!

[black86glhs]

Come on, rebuild the gears with your tig welder and a 5" grinder!

[135sohc]

How rolled over are the splines on the input shaft ?

[Ondonti]

Loved telling people that a 3.85 is the way to go and getting flamed.

I would rather take control of boost in 1st and 2nd gear then ruin 4th gear's effectiveness. actual gearing change in 1st and 2nd is small compared to how fubar'd 4th gets with long gearing and a high reving motor.

I wouldn't mind seeing a 3.0:1 custom final or something like that.

[BadAssPerformance]

Come on, rebuild the gears with your tig welder and a 5" grinder!

If the input shaft wasn't heat treated, I'd be down... LOL

How rolled over are the splines on the input shaft ?

Rolled over?

Loved telling people that a 3.85 is the way to go and getting flamed.

Link to flamage? If it was regards to 24.5" tires and my car I stand by the 3.50:1 gear for that combo. Even on low boost, 1st and 2nd would be useless with a 3.85:1.

[135sohc]

How loose of a fit is it between the input shaft splines and the clutch disc splines ? I have seen it on a few input shafts where the splines were very worn/edges rolled over from higher power levels and mileage.

[Ondonti]

If the input shaft wasn't heat treated, I'd be down... LOL



Rolled over?



Link to flamage? If it was regards to 24.5" tires and my car I stand by the 3.50:1 gear for that combo. Even on low boost, 1st and 2nd would be useless with a 3.85:1.

Plenty of it in a bunch of hybrid trans hype threads. You are just hinting yourself at some of the defensiveness in those threads.

Not sure why people here try to bandaid poor boost control with long 1st and 2nd gearing. Who else is doing that these days besides...us? Boost or timing by gear (or time based retard/boost) is still myth here.

Tires can only handle so much and longer gearing will accelerate no better then decreased boost or timing. If 42mph in 1st vs 45mph (difference between 3.85 and 3.50 gears at 7000rpms somehow saves the world, thats cool, but I know it doesn't and you should to. Numbers don't lie, cars run faster when gearing and traction are both optimized without making the sacrifice of anything but what you don't need (excess power) and even Red Sled (a dodge!) knows you can't just throw all the beans at first gear. He is still running 24.5 tires since outlaw is dead. He is doing that with 2400 pounds of weight and more power then Brian Slowe. His car was as heavy as your car last year when he ran 8.8 and 166mph and then he put it on a diet.

There is no way to get around ruining 3rd and 4th gears based on being greedy for boost in the low rpms. I know for myself its a matter of not wanting to spend what it takes to get a proper boost control setup (or timing).

Feel free to explain how 10% longer gearing will handle anything more then 10% more power and I can accept the bogus hybrid transmission arguments. Hybrid transmissions are great for slow cars that don't want to shift into 4th gear and have wide powerbands. Longer 1st and 2nd gear is great but passing the traps halfway through 4th is silly. 3.0 FD would be great and that is easy to explain why.