Lol...
Lol...
JT
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Nice JT!! I was using 600lb spring in the rear on race day and still getting a bunch of squat so I'm looking at some 1200lb 6" suckers to help and still be able to not have the back end sky high.
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JT
SDAC Director
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
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600s up front should help with lift too since there is less movement for the same loss of reaction force.
Well if it dumps 3000lb on a pair of 600lb/in springs at the start line, plus whatever torque the front tires can apply, then yah, it's gonna squat 3 or 4 inches still.
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Yep, that plus less camber/alignment change thru the launch too
Damnit, now I want to put a coupel transducers in there to find out how much is really going there! LOL!
Also, there is the argument that stiffer is not always better as a stiff (solid) rear merely acts as a fulcrum to lift the front while a softer rear may allow for some energy absorbtion/damping/slowing down of the motion. I do nto think 600 is th erigth number but do think the MP springs (250?) were not enough and it was on the jounce bumpers... so whatever it did slow down got abrubtly upset when it bottomed out
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
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87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
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Only if they were hard to move from the correct position.
By design the bushings make them sit level (horizontal) and dude to the lowering springs they were not as noted above, so if anything, before they took a set they were working to lift the vehicle until the bushings took a set
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Nope, not the stub strut type, at least not with poly bushings. By design, the off-axis of the stub strut compared to the axis of the front bushing force the bushings to the center plane (the plane that goes through both axis) which by design is horizontal. With stock rubber bushings, there may be *some* torsional rate that holds them in place where torqued, but I would susect over time they would settle at horizontalish if unloaded and take a set at ride height like the poly bushings do if loaded. Speaking of which, the k-member and lca's set at rest horizontal even after taking a set fo rso many years.
With the dual pivot style and stock bushings, they need to be torqued with vehicle weight on them (to center them) as the bushing shave a torsional rate. with poly bushings, you can torque them anywhere as the bushings do not add a torsional rate.
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
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Just so you know, JT, I've ridden in and driven a car with 450#/in springs with Konis and it was on the very edge of what I could consider "acceptable" for the street. On a long drive you would be feeling it for sure. 600's are going to be ROUGH! I'm also not sure the stock Koni's have enough jounce adjustment to control them. You may have to look at different dampers, or send yours out for revalving (though some have claimed Koni won't/can't do that for our dampers any more).
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Really?
For the springs... I made the decision to go this stiff after getting the opportunity to drive an '86 GLHS on 600#/in and konis, with a firm race seat, 1/2 way from LA to Vegas a couple years ago. Being my car outweighs that one by a few hundred lbs it can only be better
For the dampers... these are not typical KONI's but rather KONI race inserts that are one-way so rebound adjustment only, so if Jounce is off, I'll just have to suck it up, but for the most part, it would have to probably injure me befor I'd care LOL
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
proparts usa have the set i got from simon, and they are almost done rebuilding the fronts, after rebuilding they will be put on a shock dyno to check dampening. and for the record, and company that is approved to work on koni's can revalve them for your demands. simple questions like corner weight, unsprung weight (approx) spring length, and spring rate will mean they can revalve for compression and even the rebound range to accomodate a high spring rate. often times if your running a high spring rate with a lighter car you may not need hardly any compression dampening (too much compression dampening plus high spring rate= broken vertebrae), but the flip side is you may not have enough rebound adjustment and may wind up in the upper end of the adjustment or worse incapable of having enough without revalving.
600s and konis in the rear isn't so bad. They are what let me know I needed a rear sway bar, dispite the scoffing from Baker . I have no experience with 600s up front though. My general street setup is 380 up front and 300 in the rear and I've driven to the track many times with 600s in the rear and there really wasn't too much difference in ride. In fact I will be doing it tomorrow again.
Deff interested to see how 600's all around are going to work for you JT. As the general concensus (as far as I've found) is that Less in front is More and 800-1000# springs in the rear is what you want (depending on weight). I'm still running the 350# springs in front right now and was going to swap back to the 250# that were in there last year to see what the difference is. Problem is the suspension is so soft right now with the 350# and hiem joints that I can't bring myself around to swapping a softer spring in!
I'm actually thinking about a stiffer strut instead. Would really like to hit up an autocross as the car has Zip for body roll compared to when I had the 250's with stock crossmember and A-arms With swaybar!
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Bill Baker was giving me a hard time in the parking lot at SDAC when me and JT were installing my rear sway bar. Then I beat him in the autocross and he took it back.
The theory I think JT would be going for with more in the front is that for any given load there is less spring compression or vertical displacement. When you launch and the front suspension unloads there will be less body movement with a stiffer spring. This will help control the pitch and some rear weight transfer along with it.