BadAss SRT-Z - 2.4L / A568 - Update!!!

[Reaper1]

Yes. Or about -3 camber and 1/4" toe out at rest.


I went from 450 to 650 rear springs this year. Didn't notice much of a difference. Want to make a bigger jump next time (1000).

Did you REALLY mean *-3* camber? I think that's a bit much. Even -1.5 was on the edge of being too much in my car on a hard launch ("verified" on smooth, clean concrete). I wouldn't got past -2 (of course that street tires, but I'm also thinking auto-x and road course).

I think we are concentrating too much on changing the wrong parts to get a good launch. Yes, stiffer springs will help squat, but can hurt if the don't have the right amount of dampening control.

I personally think that either changing the moment arm that the weight shift has to work against durning launch (read: make the wheelbase longer), or adding more anti-lift to the front suspension, or possibly both, is the way to go.

To change the wheelbase you don't have to go as far as Brian Slowe did...just put on wheelie bars! Honda's and such have been doing it for years and it works! Now, JT might argue that you can't drive around very well with long friggin wheelie bars hanging out the back of the car (which you can make them removable, but anyway).

OK, then time to modify the front suspesion and add more anti-lift to it. This will require either modifying the stock K-frame, or making a custom one. The second choice will allow you to even loose some weight if you choose to do so!

Yes, both of these are not as easy or cheap as springs, but I think they are better options for a good solution. Yes, there are people that have been sucessful without either of these modifications, but I'm willing to bet their set-up isn't exactly the same as this one.

[black86glhs]

Did you REALLY mean *-3* camber? I think that's a bit much. Even -1.5 was on the edge of being too much in my car on a hard launch ("verified" on smooth, clean concrete). I wouldn't got past -2 (of course that street tires, but I'm also thinking auto-x and road course).

I think we are concentrating too much on changing the wrong parts to get a good launch. Yes, stiffer springs will help squat, but can hurt if the don't have the right amount of dampening control.

I personally think that either changing the moment arm that the weight shift has to work against durning launch (read: make the wheelbase longer), or adding more anti-lift to the front suspension, or possibly both, is the way to go.

To change the wheelbase you don't have to go as far as Brian Slowe did...just put on wheelie bars! Honda's and such have been doing it for years and it works! Now, JT might argue that you can't drive around very well with long friggin wheelie bars hanging out the back of the car (which you can make them removable, but anyway).

OK, then time to modify the front suspesion and add more anti-lift to it. This will require either modifying the stock K-frame, or making a custom one. The second choice will allow you to even loose some weight if you choose to do so!

Yes, both of these are not as easy or cheap as springs, but I think they are better options for a good solution. Yes, there are people that have been sucessful without either of these modifications, but I'm willing to bet their set-up isn't exactly the same as this one.

I was thinking about removable wheelie bars too. Stop whining about them JT and just get on board.....LOL. <-----J/K

[BadAssPerformance]

To run wheelie bars on a FWD like they were used 10 years ago (pre-loaded) is illegal by NHRA rules and bad for the track. They can be used effectively but the car has to squat to let them contact the ground...

I have stock suspension geometry on this car with only rear KONIs and MP AutoX springs... there are a lot of things I can play with before adding wheelie bars. A few on the list:

1 - Front coil overs
2 - CSRacer style adjustable rear spring perches
3 - Stiffer springs all around
4 - Upgrade to dual pivot K-member/LCA's

[Pat]

To run wheelie bars on a FWD like they were used 10 years ago (pre-loaded) is illegal by NHRA rules and bad for the track. They can be used effectively but the car has to squat to let them contact the ground...

I have stock suspension geometry on this car with only rear KONIs and MP AutoX springs... there are a lot of things I can play with before adding wheelie bars. A few on the list:

1 - Front coil overs
2 - CSRacer style adjustable rear spring perches
3 - Stiffer springs all around
4 - Upgrade to dual pivot K-member/LCA's

5- lighten the back of the car, particuarly behind the rear axle/move weight forward. That will help weight transfer and effectively increase your spring rate.

Isn't your fuel cell in the back? Stock hatch? Rear bumper?

[BadAssPerformance]

Yeah, the car is heavy... probably 5 gallons in the 8 gallon cell in the spare tire well.

Its still a street car so it wont get gutted/lightemed too much.

[Aries_Turbo]

how often do you drive it on the street? just curious.

Brian

[Pat]

Yeah, the car is heavy... probably 5 gallons in the 8 gallon cell in the spare tire well.

Its still a street car so it wont get gutted/lightemed too much.

Even if you don't want to lighten, where the weight is located is just as important. Any weight behind the rear axle uses the distance from the axle as a lever against the rear suspension. Figure out a way to get a cell in front of the axle and you'll make a difference with that alone.

[BadAssPerformance]

how often do you drive it on the street? just curious.

Brian

I drove it to several cruise nights last year, this year not as much cuz the begining of the year I wasnt sure the engine was gonna make it after the first oil pump and also was lazy and left the slicks on it, LOL... So it didnt get driven too far. But it is all plated an stuff

Even if you don't want to lighten, where the weight is located is just as important. Any weight behind the rear axle uses the distance from the axle as a lever against the rear suspension. Figure out a way to get a cell in front of the axle and you'll make a difference with that alone.

Yeah, I thought about that, but havn't wanted to go to a smaller cell or cut the floor...

[Pat]

Yeah, I thought about that, but havn't wanted to go to a smaller cell or cut the floor...

It's just metal...cutting wheel and a welder and you can do whatever you want. And put it back if you change your mind.

[BadAssPerformance]

LOL, true... I like the stock-ish look tho

[Reaper1]

To run wheelie bars on a FWD like they were used 10 years ago (pre-loaded) is illegal by NHRA rules and bad for the track. They can be used effectively but the car has to squat to let them contact the ground...

I have stock suspension geometry on this car with only rear KONIs and MP AutoX springs... there are a lot of things I can play with before adding wheelie bars. A few on the list:

1 - Front coil overs
2 - CSRacer style adjustable rear spring perches
3 - Stiffer springs all around
4 - Upgrade to dual pivot K-member/LCA's

You don't have to preload them. Using squat just like the RWD guys do will work fine. But afte reading your list of other things to work with...yeah, wheelie bars aren't exactly your only option here! LOL

I'd say the K-member should be the FIRST thing on your list! I didn't realize you were still using the old style!

I'd do 1-3 as a complete set. It removes weight from the car, adds adjustibility, and you can ONLY bennefit from it (well, your wallet won't, but anyways).

[22shelby]

didnt you know Brian everything here in chitown is a street car..... you'll see come next June ...mmmmm Bacon street car.......ughhhhhhhhh!

[BadAssPerformance]

Exactly... Here's a couple pics from various times I've been out with it... yes, that one is driving right by the Police Department, no worries, full exhaust is quiet

That reminds me, need to get Tom to post the video of our cruise in Belvidere too!

[Aries_Turbo]

didnt you know Brian everything here in chitown is a street car..... you'll see come next June ...mmmmm Bacon street car.......ughhhhhhhhh!

mmmmm bacon. i just ate some lol.

yeah i know the "street" car deal. wait to you see my "street" k car in a few years lol.

Brian

[135sohc]

The FSM shows the proper part being C-6371. However that does not turn up any good results on google.

C-4660 is the one for the 525 which shows what the 523/568 one should look like. I wonder if it would even work with the larger bearing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4#ht_832wt_939

Old posting but since I just went through this issue I thought I'd share. The 4660 is the proper tool for grabbing the inside of the bearing and the outer cup tool 6371 is used in conjunction with it. The service manual doesnt make that part very clear.

[BadAssPerformance]

Good info, thanks!

I ended up making some fixtures to use on a hydraulic press but forgot to get pictures I will next time tho!

[30 PSI SHADOW]

You mean like jonny Bs old csx-t?

[BadAssPerformance]

^^^ wow!

[turbovanman²]

You mean like jonny Bs old csx-t?

Is that RWD?

[BadAssPerformance]

Although it squats like LarryB's RWD Sundance I'm pretty sure that one is FWD...