I know that when you have a full dead non working battery not even jumping it with a plug in type booster will help. Try tossing a new/good battery at it at least.
I know that when you have a full dead non working battery not even jumping it with a plug in type booster will help. Try tossing a new/good battery at it at least.
My 1972 400 powered charger died once on the way home. No lights, not power at all. There was a relay or something on the drivers side inner fender that had a bad connection. Hard to remember more than that... it was 1993. I miss that car. hemi Orange, cyote headers and 2.25" dual exhausts.
I actually had the same thing in my 77 power wagon, it was the main feed fuseable link for power to everything in the cab EXCEPT the 4 way blinkers. Thats what helped me hunt down the problem, the 4 ways have a seperate wire feed.Originally Posted by TurbododgePirate
Where is the starter? Is it by the firewall on the driver side? And does the screw driver trick complete the circuit and make the starter manually crank? Once I get my Daytona transmission buttoned up and get it's battery charged up I'll throw it in and see if I can start it. I really want to hear that thing again. Last time my step-dad and I started it, it was so loud we both jumped, the windows on my house shook, and the neighbors came outside because they thought something explodedEven 318's can sound mean.
Do you mean electric choke? I thought all ignitions were electric
Starter relay in on the DS inner fenderwell next to the battery. Starter itself is on DS of the engine. If you jump across the relay and the starter just clicks you have one of two problems: Battery is too weak to crank the motor or the motor is stuck. My guess is that the battery is just too weak.
Make sure your battery cables are in good condition too. I had a friend in high school with a '72 Charger SE. The postive post on the battery was loose, so to tighten is up he stuck a screw in it. Car wouldn't start. Took the screw out and it started right up.
Factory used a bimetallic spring that would uncoil as it warmed up and pushed the choke open. It looks like this:
It had that until the previous owner thought a manual choke looked cooler
Not necessarily, they rust up and stop working. They are 30+ years old you knowIt had that until the previous owner thought a manual choke looked cooler
ya deffinatley invest in an auto choke. Starts alot better and works out pretty well. They like to drive better in the cold with an auto choke. plus starters are super simple to change on these cars *thank god* and wouldnt be to much of a headache. Good luck =) Plus join dodgecharger.com. Nice ppl and they deffinitley know there stuff.
Well I hooked up my battery from my Daytona and tried to get it to start. Seems the starter works fine and the engine isn't seized, but we couldn't get it to run for more than about 5 seconds. Something is causing it not to get any fuel. We can keep it running by squirting bursts of starter fluid in there but it won't idle on its own. It was pretty funny watching it shoot all the crap out of the tail pipes though!
fool pump diaphram?
and the thing on the firewall is a ballast resistor. You wouldn't get any fire if that's bad. Pick up an extra though. It goes without warning during heavy rains.
if the ballast resistor is bad it will run when you crank (key in start position), but as soon as you let off the key it will quit (key in run position). The ballast resistor is bypassed when starting for higher voltage to the ignition, but after the key goes to the run position, the ballast resistor is used. Every older mopar owner should have a spare ballast resistor in the glove box!
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Again, sorry for the newbie questions, but where is the fuel pump on this thing? I hope its not in the tank like TM's... Anyway to tell if it's bad or if the carburetor is junk?
Fuel pump is mechanical so it's mounted on the engine, looking from the front of the car it's down on the left side at the front of the engine.
You can remove the line from the pump to the carb temporarily and try to crank it, if the pump is getting fuel and working it will squirt fuel out of the line. (these systems are not high pressure like our efi cars).
If it's not getting fuel pumped up to the carb make sure there is fuel getting to the pump, you can disconnect the inlet hose on the pump and hook up a temporary fuel source like a fuel jug with a fuel line running into it or even a gatorade bottle or something. Crank it over and see if the pump draws fuel in then.
If that doesn't work then it's likely a bad fuel pump, the rubber diagphrams inside break down. New ones aren't much money and they are easy to replace. I think the newer fuels are hard on the old rubber in the pumps, I had a couple go out in my Roadrunner over the 8 or 9 years I had the car.
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Oh ok I remember seeing the fuel pump now, silly me I thought it was something like a fuel pressure regulator
One other thing. The carb floats go bad. That's not about this problem, but they are foam with a plastic cover that goes bad. They made them this way on all cars 60-70' as far as I know.
If the old cars didn't suck so much gas, I would go back to them. 76 Town and Country 440. I got 12 mpg. Wife's uncle (a mechanic) was really proud of getting 18 mpg.
Well I changed out the fuel pump and it's not pumping fuel. I'm not sure if I put it in wrong or not? It won't pull fuel in from the tank or a separate source. Replaced all the pump to carb lines. How can I tell if the pumping lever is lined up right when I install it?
this is a nasty thing to do, but suck on the fuel line from the tank and see if you are able to suck gas, or blow on it. (you WILL know what gas tastes like for a week)
Plus the pump doesn't instantly prime. You need to crank it a little before the gas get sucked up there.
You could also have a hole in the line and the pump will just suck air. It won't leak like a pressurized fuel line does.
If you need more help, come over to moparts.com, the board there is dedicated to old mopars like ours.
First thing, remember in a carb you have fuel sitting in the carb bowl. After sitting for even a week the fuel will evaporate out of the bowl, so don't be surprised if it's hard starting. Starter spray may be useful. Plus if it's been sitting for a year, fuel has probably drained back from the fuel pump, out of the fuel lines and back into the tank. That means the fuel has a long way to go before it even gets up to the carb. Personally, I did not want to deal with these problems so I converted to an electric fuel pump with a return style regulator. Gets rid of these problems. Now next thing I would do is go and order a replacement auto choke from rock auto. They're cheap and your 318 will start 100x better with it than a manual choke. Carb is probably not in the best shape by now, however I've left carbed cars sitting for much longer than a year and fired them up.
Also, even if your fuel pump is hooked up correctly, just cranking the engine over with the starter will not flow much fuel. One time I had the bright idea of pumping some gas out of the tank by cranking over the engine with the coil unhooked and the fuel pump output leading into a bottle. Very very little gas gets pumped out at those rpms. I'd replace the choke and keep at it with the starter spray.
Blowing on the fuel line to make sure it's not rusted thru anywhere would not be a bad idea, or you could suck if you like the taste of gas.
Here's a couple pics of my car, it's a 74 Satellite with a 440/727 under the hood.
Pic
another
last one
I always fill the carb bowl with fuel and start it then keep doing it until gas gets pumped up to the carb. That way you won't go through a whole can of starting fluid trying to get it to pump up. I'd also suggest running a line from the pump input to a small gas can first because the gas in the tank is probably nasty after a year.
The tank was empty when it was last started a year ago, I ran it and it ran out of gas and I never filled it back up. I put on a new fuel filter, the clear plastic type when I installed the pump, as well as a pump to carb line. As I crank the car, no fuel even gets into it, not even a little. We tried running the feed line to a separate gas tank to see if the fuel line was the problem, same results. It wasn't sucking anything up from the jug. We'd use starter fluid and gas to try to keep the car running, the longest we got it was about a 10 second idle and still no fuel in the filter. We tried that "fun" process for about 30 minutes on and off until the starter started overheating. That's why I think I installed it wrong.
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