He told me he was running factory axles up until last year and he switched to shortened mini axles.
He told me he was running factory axles up until last year and he switched to shortened mini axles.
Couple ?'s
Has any one looked at keeping the srt-4 motor and tranny as one unit and swapping it in. Does the tranny have the same mount on the driver side?
Using a mexi manifold, what would be a good turbo to run for 400 ish hp? I was looking at the hy35 but havent read many results.
If the srt tranny swaps in, then the question of axles comes up. Seems like the best combo would be a 568 with a quaife. Using that and the tbi axles, and a good clutch would be the best combo ive seen so far, unless the srt tranny with the LSD bolts in.
I've been thinking about this for a while now but i won't know until the winter when i get everything for the swap. I plan on using the srt4 trans and if i have to i'm going to get custom axels or get the srt4 ones shortened since i'm putting this into an omni which i'm guessing by your name is what you drive as well. As for a turbo a good ol 50 trim turbo is very well matched for the srt4 motor but if you have deeper pockets the dual ball bearing version of the 50 trim or the gt3071 will get the power you want as well as being streetable the gt3071 being the most streetable. Hope that helps a little.Originally Posted by GLH-T
Jay
The tranny mount is not the same as the turbododge on the NVT350 or the SRT 5 speedOriginally Posted by GLH-T
The HY35 should be fine.. good luck finding a mexican manifold. When I found mine 3 mos ago there were only 2 forsale in north america.Originally Posted by GLH-T
To use the SRT tranny you will have to convert to a hydraulic clutch setup.Originally Posted by GLH-T
The best setup? I am using a 3.55 Neon NVT350 with a OBX diff, TBI axles, and a specially modified SRT4 clutch.
Although if I could trade it all for a SRT4 tranny with the quaiffe I would. I just thing the hydraulic clutch setup would be a PITA.
Im curious as to how you are going to mount the tranny if the physical mounts on the car are different. Are the regular neon trannys and the srt trannys different? Id think it would be much easier to drop in a srt-4 motor and tranny, and just have to worry about the clutch conversion then using the 568. I am just not familiar as to how the srt tranny mounts to the car. That is what is keeping me from wanting to go that route. Well the 2 things are mounts and what axles to run. Id like to know how far you have gotten on the tranny fitment, and if you are sure the TBI axles will work. If i go the 568 route, the axles, shifter, all that has been done 500 times so we know what works and what doesnt.Originally Posted by TurbododgePirate
Have you test fit the mexi manifold and the hy35 on the motor to check clearances and all of that? I think you have a really good choice on the manifold and turbo. Seems like the best bang for the buck. I have found a hard time even finding someone that knows where to look for a stratus turbo manifold. Any suggestions on where to look for one?
So far I have taken the stock tranny side mount from a NVT350 and cut 1/4" off of the center metal piece on both sides for extra clearance. On the car body I removed everything that I could from the drivers side mount bracket. I have yet to bolt the 2.4 and nvt 350 together to see if the axles will work as planned, and if the tranny will fit. Right now I have about 3/4" of movement in both directions that I can make on the neon mount.Originally Posted by GLH-T
Yes. Regular neon NVT350's are cable operated. The SRT4 is hydraulic, and I know the clutches are different because I had to have about 1/4" milled off of my SRT4 clutch to fit inside the NVT350. I believe their overall dimensions and construction are different as well.Originally Posted by GLH-T
I agree.Originally Posted by GLH-T
I have checked it on a head, but not in the car yet. I am working very hard to get the shortblock together ASAP so I can do all of that. I will take pictures of everything.Originally Posted by GLH-T
Sure, start out with a wanted post on www.neons.org. I don't know if they are allowing any new mwmbers though, if they are not allowing new members, then let me know and I'll put a post up for you. However, if you ar eusing a 2001 or newer block, you can buy a manifold just like the mexican manifold online somewhere.Originally Posted by GLH-T
~~Heath
I'm a member there and although there's a lot of immature people on there, I was fortunate enough to hook up with some cool people and buy my trans, shifter, cables, alternator, and starter from total strangers, and I didn't get ripped off! lol At the time there was a lot of fraud on the site. Check it out, you'll find something.Originally Posted by TurbododgePirate
I have a question, that I didnt see asked but I may have missed it...
I dont know which DOHC head I have, I just know I have one and im 90% sure it is the 2.0.
What do you mean by the bolts are shorter? Shouldnt that be determined by the block and not the head?
Yeah the 2.4/2.0 heads are the same
The blocks are different so the 2.0 has 4 shorter bolts
so if you want ARP headstuds for a 2.4 you need to get them for a VW 1.8T motor
Are you sure that it is the blocks that are different? I was told that the head castings are different for the four outermost headbolts. I certainly don't want to order the wrong headbolts.Originally Posted by Speedeuphoria
Originally Posted by Darkapollo
Do you know what year the head came from, that will give a clue. If you have no idea, look at the exhaust ports, or take a pic of them and we can sort it out.
Well, I'll copy down the casting numbers on the side to see if anyone can ID it off of those. It is just the head because I want to do the 2.5l DOHC hybrid. I'm trying to get all of the info on DOHC that I can get before I tackle this. Even stuff that isnt 100% related, that is why I asked in here.
I can tell you the head was in the trunk of a 1g neon, not sure what car it came from since it was in a row of neons, none of wich had engines or heads. It wasnt an R/T neon (no badges), and I would cry if it was an ACR.
The 2.0/2.4 heads are the same? also, where would I be able to procure the camshaft main caps? Im trying to avoid dealership parts prices..
Thanks for the info all!
Well, the exhaust port shape can tell you if it is a 1995-1999 head, or a 2000+ head. As for the cam caps didn't they come with the head? If not you know that you will have to get new caps, then have them line honed..... which will probably be more expensive than buying a complete head.Originally Posted by Darkapollo
I started out doing a 2.5 DOHC conversion, and then decided to switch to a full 2.4 setup because of cost and reliability. For a complete budget job, the 2.4 can be had much more easily. Basically buy a 2.4 motor, add SRT4 rods, pistons and bearings, a turbo and turbo manifold, megasquirtNspark it and go.
Just my opinion though
Yeah Im aware that I have to get new caps, and no they were not on the head when I picked it up, someone wanted the cams, they might be in the trunk or somewhere near the car, but I didnt see them... Ill get new ones and see how far out of spec they are. If it is with in factory tolerances then Im just going to leave it alone.
Budget isnt really an issue for this car. Im way over my budget as is (ive spent more then just the price of a tank of gas ) and so I might as well enjoy it.
The head has to be a 1st gen (95-99) because there weren't any late models around it. FINDING an entire 2.4l engine at that junk yard will be way to hard. Plus I would have to buy rods and pistons anyway, so the cost of the engine swap would negate the money savings.
JUST MY 1/50th of $1... I AM HERE TO LEARN so LEARN ME SOMETHIN GOOD.
Originally Posted by TurbododgePirate
look on neons .org
The 2.4 has all the same length headbolts. There is no arp headstud kit for it(well actually there is now, but on summit it doesn't say what its for, this is the # ARP 141-4204) or use the VW 1.8 20v set ARP 204-4204(same length and pitch bolts)
THE HEADS ARE EXACTLY THE SAME FOR 95-99 2.0/2.4!!!
Well... I suppose I should hit up the junk yard this weekend and pick up a complete 2.4 long block for $65 (yeah for harrys u-pull-it sales!)
Is it possable to get an SRT-4 computer and wiring harness to run it instead of an aftermarket unit (i have delt with mega-squirts and as many people swear by them, they are a PIMA)
This is going into a 91 Pdiddy.. er P-Body.
the srt4 computer won't run an earlier motor due to the crank trigger being different. For a ghetto setup you could use the factory ecu and trick it(way not worth the time for the lack of proper tunning) the best way would be the factory ecu w/ a cal or a standalone
Thats what i wanted to know. Thanks.
I just dont like stand alones because they are a pain to tune and are usually overly complex to install.
So who here is working on an SRT4 TRANSMISSION install on a 2.4 TD? Id just like to see some info coming in on the trans mount, axle, and clearance issues with this trans. I love the super light hydraulic clutch in traffic so unless someone here has a way to convert a 568 to hydraulic we could use some answers.
Discuss.
(fyi, I now have a townhouse, and no garage, so I cannot do these things myself or I would!)
Converting a 568 to a hydraulic is cake. I will be doing that on my 2.4L shadow. Of course its a race setup, so the 2pedal wilwood setup is going in with the actuator attached to the case with a small lever arm and a heim joint to pivit the fork for the clutch.
Frank
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